Need some help at the strip

steel1212 said:
Washmo, do you still have the same 5 leaf, shelby drop, grab-a-trac suspension? Thats what I have as well. I'm rebuilding the DP tomorrow and will have it with me at the track if I go this friday. Supossed to be in the 90s so that means about 100 on the track and I'm a puss lol.

5 leaf reverse eye, rear sway bar, cut 620's, TCP uppers, shelby drop, pull the front swaybar off.

With my old stall (2500) I was footbraking to 1.59 short times, if the suspension and the slicks still cooperate with the new stall (3500) and transbrake I am hoping to improve those 60' times, we'll see, I may be pushing it now.... With the Cam swap the car pulls a little harder so I am hoping that in conjuction to some harder launches will help me pick up a couple .10's
 
I will offer 2 points of advise that learned about BFD DR.

1. 18 PSI is too low IMO the tires (at least in 275 40 17) like more air. I got my best track results at 23-25psi
2. Get them HOT

If you look at my last major track outing numbers (looking at the 60 foots) the first two are cold at 30 PSI, the third is with a burnout and 30 PSI

All the rest are 23-25PSI and hot. You need to do a very good burnout with alot of white with these tires to get your 60s down. I was at the track a few weeks ago and ran them at 20 PSI and could not get the 60 foot below 2.0x

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I also suggest a min of 2 passes on a combo (I do 3 but I also go when it isn't too crowded so I can get alot of passes in) to level out flukes in runs. I also only change one thing at a time. When you had 'the bad burnout' I would have done another run without any changes. As it stands, you don't know if it was the jets or the timing that netted you what in your gains on your last runs.

On edit: also note, I start at idle for those noted 60 foots which is 750 RPM.
 

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Nick, why would you leave at idle? You have a torque monster in that thing. If you left at a higher rpm you should cut your 60s down a lot also. I really don't have time to 3 runs at this track as it is crowded and I really don't want to burn up my clutch from back to back runs lol. I do try my best to run again when something screws up, like when we left the vacum hose off. One of my main concerns is that I'm not getting a good white burn out as the car for some reason is walking to the left. I think might have figured it out though. I know I needed to be doing one thing at a time, in reality I should have started with the traction and getting it to dead hook and lower my 60s before playing with the carb but didn't do that either :nonono:
 
steel1212 said:
Nick, why would you leave at idle? You have a torque monster in that thing. If you left at a higher rpm you should cut your 60s down a lot also.

Even though I have a 3k stall I was overcoming the rear brakes below 2k RPM so it was next to impossible to foot brake it up to something I could 'launch' with. I'm working on the problem. The new Master cynlider is sitting on the work bench and I have a line lock sitting in a box.
 
Hitting the tires harder will gain you in the 60, if you can keep traction. With a stick, your hitting the tires pretty hard anyways.Like using nitrous out of the hole. A 100 shot will hit the tires harder, but could loose traction. But if you have the traction, harder the better.
 
steel1212 said:
Ok so I was wrong lol. Anyways didn't you say to put the bars in the lower hole for me to hit them softer? If I need better 60 foot times why would I put them in the lower holes?

because you are most likely already overcoming the tires and losing traction. You hit them as hard as you can without breaking tires to achieve fastest 60 foot.
 
steel1212 said:
So basically its start on the lower hole and work my way to the upper hole?
Exactly. Thisway you can find a baseline to start making changes. If you are inconsistant, it's hard to tell if anything changed. Get traction consistanlty, then try to squeeze the hp from it.