need some help installing c4

ECU5.0

Banned
Jan 10, 2004
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raleigh, nc
alright, ive got the c4 under the car and started tightening all the bolts that hold it to the motor. well it wont snug up to the motor. nothing is in between the bell and the block. i think it is a tiny little spacer thing that the guy gave me. he said it goes in between the flexplate and the crank. well i think that pushed the flexplate out enough that it is coming in contact with the torque converter and not allowing the tranny to sit flush with the motor. AAAAHHHHH!!!!....im gonna kill someone. someone tell me what im doing wrong
 
well, i cant get this damn thing out. im about to start smashing stuff with my sledge hammer. grease thing doesnt work, slide hammer doesnt work, broke my damn chisel. its time to get a ****ing stick of dynamite and blow this hole place up. this is the hardest thing i have ever done to my car. and everyone that has ever worked or owned on a mustang that lives around me is too stuck up their ass to come over and give me a hand. sorry, just kind of venting, gotta let off some steam before i go ape ****
 
c-4 help

ECU5.0 said:
alright, ive got the c4 under the car and started tightening all the bolts that hold it to the motor. well it wont snug up to the motor. nothing is in between the bell and the block. i think it is a tiny little spacer thing that the guy gave me. he said it goes in between the flexplate and the crank. well i think that pushed the flexplate out enough that it is coming in contact with the torque converter and not allowing the tranny to sit flush with the motor. AAAAHHHHH!!!!....im gonna kill someone. someone tell me what im doing wrong

hey, my name is matt, i have an 86'gt with a c-4 and a 4000 stall converter. did your car come stock with an aod? mine was and the only mods i had to do were to grind the hub of the convertor about ten thousanths, and make a solid relocation mount. i think u should loose the spacer. instal the tranny, and wiggle the torque converter to make sure it moves freely, be sure to as how much converter pull out u should have, i think mine was barley touching the flywheel and i could wiggle the converter, so it was perfect but u may not have enough, or too much (add spacers) let me know if u cant move the tourque converter.
matt
 
the car was originally a 5 spd. the spacer is only about as thick as a paper gasket. i know that wasnt my problem. its just a pita to do this with the car on jack stands and no one to really help out. thanks for the info matt
 
Hey, that lil pilot bearing can be a SERIOUS bitch.

The grease thing, imo is messy, and you need something with a little more solid mass to it.

My father gave me a type of clay. It's a soft moldable clay. I can stuff that into the end of the crank, and it compresses nicely, but not so easily like grease.

I then got a socket and filled it up with the same clay. Then, I put an extension on the end so the clay couldn't come out. You want to find a socket with the least possible clearance, in other words, it should BARELY fit into the pilot bearing hole (but still slide in easily) if you don't have the perfect socket you can use masking tape to increase the permiter of your socket. The goal is to not have the grease go anywhere. Once this happens, it has no choice other than to push the pilot bearing out. Once you get it, it works extremely fast. Tap tap tap tap tap, out.

Some people use wet paper towles too. Good luck, let me know how it turns out, and I'll try and help you out as best I can. The pilot bearing puller didn't work for me either.
 
helping again

hey i got ya on that, i work at cottman transmission, and u need a pilot bearing puller, it comes out in less than a miniute, lol sorry, i dont get the grease thing, u need the right tool for the job if u want it done right, what kind of convertor r u using? i think i would check and double check that converter pull out is, it should be specified with whoever u bought ur converter from. thats a big deal and i have a feelin that the spacer is gonna mess u up, just annother hint, that tin/alluminum plate rubs the converter bolts if its bent in the slightset bit, so striagten it as good as possible with a rubber mallet...yeah, i broke somthing in my c-4 last night, so ill be going through it again, its pretty easy once uve done it a few times, if i think of n e thing elce i will let u know, think about getting a tci billet band servo kit, that helped out allot, and i have a manual valve body kit too, just some thoughts for later on...if u need n e help u know who 2 talk to.

matt
 
86'4:10C-4 said:
hey i got ya on that, i work at cottman transmission, and u need a pilot bearing puller, it comes out in less than a miniute, lol sorry, i dont get the grease thing, u need the right tool for the job if u want it done right, what kind of convertor r u using? i think i would check and double check that converter pull out is, it should be specified with whoever u bought ur converter from. thats a big deal and i have a feelin that the spacer is gonna mess u up, just annother hint, that tin/alluminum plate rubs the converter bolts if its bent in the slightset bit, so striagten it as good as possible with a rubber mallet...yeah, i broke somthing in my c-4 last night, so ill be going through it again, its pretty easy once uve done it a few times, if i think of n e thing elce i will let u know, think about getting a tci billet band servo kit, that helped out allot, and i have a manual valve body kit too, just some thoughts for later on...if u need n e help u know who 2 talk to.

matt


Just a matter of simple compression and physics. Once you understand that, it IS the right tool for the right job. Often, the three pronged slide hammer pilot bearing puller works, but just as often does not. WHen I used that puller, it yanked out the inner part of the bearing, but WOULD NOT budge the outer part. I then proceeded to break one of the finger attachements to the tool. That tool was a waste of time. Some are stuck more than others, especially when mine had an original 200k on it.
 
If all else fails, try a drill and grinder, or Dremel, and grind through a spot on one side. Then it should loosen and be removeable. You are doing ultimate destruction very carefully, at a slow and controlled pace. A couple dings inside the crank are not fatal, as it only has to locate, not spin, as did the T5 input shaft.

Yeah it is a pain under the car.
 
yeah, im gonna take a dremel too it in the next couple of days when i work up enough energy to get back under there. i think the converter will work fine once the bearing is out. my dumb mistake for not thinking about taking it out in the first place. the converter wasnt touching the flexplate...it was just the hub that was pressing on the pilot bearing and loading everything up so it wouldnt spin. i thank you guys for all the help. and jeremy ill let you know how it turns out. gonna wait till next week to finally finish it up though. gonna go to rockingham this weekend for the holcomb motorsports civil wars shootout and get a shifter adapter to put the shifter in the stock location. thanks for the help again 864:10c4
 
Modular2v said:
ummmmm what did u do with the tko? ;)

traded to a guy for the c4, converter and shifter. i know, most people think im stupid but i get bored with my car very easily. i got bored with a 5 spd so i wanted something different. maybe ill go back to a 5 spd in the future...but i doubt it
 
hey

well, its not a 3 prong slide hammer, its specificly for pulling pilot bearings, and if u know how to use the tools, it works every time, i am amature compared to most, and have never ever had a problem using that tool, and i work at cottman trans, so i wouldnt f*@k around with it just get the right tool. n e ways, yeah i have that holcomb shifter adapter, and it works pretty good, but good luck i guess, and i hope it works as good as mine has.