Need some help, stud mount rockers

[xplo89gt]

These stud mounted tfs 1.6 rockers are kicking my ass.

I've adjusted them several times now with no success.
I just fixed an oil leak on my lower intake and decided to attempt rockers yet again. This time they are louder than last time. They are really loud that I don't want to drive the car. Anyone that has done this several times and went through what I am going through please help.

I tried following the procedure as best as I could. This is what I did:

Found TDC on #1 cylinder. I did this by watching the #1 cylinder intake and exhaust rockers and rotating the crank (clockwise). When it came to 0 (TDC) on the balancer I adjusted the rockers. Once I felt decent resistance on the pushrod, I did 3/4 turn of the adjusting nut and locked the allen nut. Turned the crank 1/4 turn and proceeded to cylinder 3 (i think). I followed the firing order.

My dipstick's location has kinda changed since the new TW heads are a bit taller. I think there is enough oil in the engine. Should I try add a quart? What happens if there is too much oil?

What do you think I am doing wrong? Could it be me finding zero lash? I just want them to be decently quiet.

Thanks guys.

 

[Iowa91LX]

Now these are obvious questions.
Did you replace your lifters? Are you sure they are primed?
Do you have the correct length pushrods?

Do not add a quart of oil. Even with the new heads the motor still holds the same amount of oil.

Try it one more time. Pull the spark plug on #1 and get a flashlight watch the piston come up and you will be able to spot TDC . Then do your rockers on that cylinder. You do have it right though, by the sounds of it. Pull the pushrods out and make sure they were all seated in the lifters correctly, and then make sure they are all straight.

 

[xplo89gt]

No I didn't replace my lifters. They are the stock lifters. They weren't noisy before I installed the new heads, rockers, etc.

I guess one variable I have in there is the pushrods. I used 6.750" pushrods. I used an adjustable one to do the measurement, but it was my first time with no guidance. So i guess that could be a possibility? When everything is tightened should I be able to turn the pushrods with force? Maybe im not getting zero lash correct?

 

[Iowa91LX]

Sounds about right? I ran 6.750 on my old 302 setup.
I dont know about turning the pushrods with force. Ive never had a reason to try to turn them once the last was set.

To me it sounds like your doing everything correctly. Thats why I cant believe your having problems. Do yourself a favor, call Comp Cams, or Crane, whatever and describe what youve done and what problems your having. Maybe they will be able to guide you in a different direction.

 

[xplo89gt]

Hmm yea I guess i'll give trickflow a call.

I guess one of my main questions is when do you determine zero lash? Is it when you are spinning the pushrod while tightening the adjusting nut and you first feel resistance or is it when the pushrod stops spinning?

I think either they are just not tight enough or there is a possibility I have the wrong pushrod length.

Either way im going to give it one more try before going insane.

 

[Sofgwhat]

Hey xplo89gt, did you get your problem fixed? I'm in the process of installing my TFS head and I know what a pain it is to get the rod lenghts set, lash, etc. And my engine is still on the stand. Good luck and let us know what you find out.

 

[xplo89gt]

No havent had a chance yet. Might tomorrow evening, if not looking like thursday. I'm still not sure what exactly is zero lash. Is it slight resistance, a bunch of resistance, when the pushrod wont spin? I guess I will attempt to tighten them more this time.

 

[go4it]

Check Cranes website out, explains a lot about it.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=3


Adjusting Hydraulic Lifters for Proper Preload
In order to adjust the preload the lifter must be properly located on the base circle or “Heel” of the lobe. At this position the valve is closed and there is no lift taking place. You will need to watch the movement of the valves to determine which lifter is properly positioned for adjusting.

1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the preload on.

2. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder’s intake rocker arm. (Why? Because when the exhaust valve is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, the correct position for adjusting the intake.)

3. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.)

4. Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the pushrod, you are at “Zero Lash”. Turn the adjusting nut down one half to one full turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.

5. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake almost closed, we are sure that exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.

6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.

 

[xplo89gt]

Ok, used the above method. Rockers are much quieter. Probably the quietest I have gotten them so far. They still make some noise, but I guess that is normal. I hear them echo off barriers etc when my exhaust isnt droning them out.

 

[94StangConv]

OK I am having the same problem with my car BUT.

I have called comp,crane,trick flow,and Rick Anderson!!

I have tried setting them on the base circle of the cam. Zero Lash then 1/2 turn
dosen't fix it. I have also tried Zero Lash then 1/4,3/4, and 1 full turn still no better. As far as pushrod legnth I did it myself and have had 3 local engine builders look at it and I was told they are the proper legnth. The best they have ever been is the current adjustment on the car. Goto TDC on the compression stroke, goto Zero Lash, Then 1/2 turn preload. Turn the crank 90 degrees and repeat that procedure on the next cylinder in the firing order. Repeat untill all are adjusted. Thats where they are at now still makes noise. The hydralic lifters are new from COMP Cams and are not collapsed. I am running an B-21 Anderson cam with 1.72 Trick Flow Rockers. If anyone has any suggestion it would be a great help. I have adjusted these somewhere around 10 to 15 times. It has never been right.

 

[jrichker]

Old fashioned stud rocker adjustment - very messy, but works good.

Remove rocker covers, start the engine, get it to idle at a reasonably steady speed. Loosen the rocker until it clatters. Tighten it down slowly until it quitens, then turn 3/4 turn more & set lock if present. Procced to the next rocker. By the time you are finished, you will have an oil bath and some perfectly adjusted rockers.

There are some spring clips available to cover the squirt holes in the tops of the rockers if your rockers have the squirt hole over the pushrod. I have also heard of using folded pieces of aluminum foil to cover the squirt holes.

 

[94StangConv]

I have thought one out and actually tried it. The only problem is the upper intake is in the way on most of the drivers side ones and the throttle body sits right on top of them on the pass. side. So you can't get to them all.