Need some opinions

animal20

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
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Sorry in advance for all the questions :) I have a set of ported, milled DOOE heads (58.5cc) with 1.94/1.60 valves. I was originally building up a 351w block but I took apart the used block I bought and realized it's a lost cause with all the stuff wrong with it. Ive decided to throw the heads and some other goodies on my 289 C code (stock remanufactured low mileage). This is all for a 66 stang 4spd, 3.55 gears.

I haven't taken apart the c code that's in the car now so I'm not positive on the deck clearance but as best I could find I should be around 9.2:1 compression (definately between 9.0 and 9.4) with the dooe heads mentioned above. I've specced out my prospective cam as a Comp cams 31-333-4 solid flat tappet (270/270 adver, 224/224 @.050, .499/.499 lift, 110* sep). The heads have studs and 1.6 full roller rockers, and springs that could've handled the .557 lift I had originally spec'ed in my 351 cam. Carb is a holley DP 650. Through all this I've developed quite a few questions:

Will I have issues with piston-valve clearance with the .499 lift on a stock 289 with the larged valves? Is the cam choice pretty decent for a light manual street car? Will i need to do anything special swapping the stock hydraulic cam for the solid? Is there any fitment issues with the DOOE heads on a 289 other than the special wider-shoulder head bolts? Is there fitment issues with the 351 heads with a perf RPM manifold or weiand stealth intake? Which of those two manifolds is better for my application? I also had bought hedman 351w swap shortie headers (1 5/8 primaries) for the 351 that was going to go in the car, can I use these on the 289 instead or will i have clearance issues? Anything else I should be considering? Any speculations on what kind of power I can expect to be making? (Goal with the 351 was 400hp at the crank, I realize this will be much lower) Thanks a TON in advance to anyone with the time to reply :)
 
i would say that more than likely you will have to fly cut the pistons, if you do comp or crane sells a neat little tool that you just insert in the head in place of a valve and use a drill to mek the cut, pretty cool little tool. just make sure you tape the block off over every cylinder to keep the shavings out, obviously you'll have to do them one at a time. i would clay them first to make sure but i imagine you'll have some interference or at the very least minimal clearances. you need at least .050 clearance and some people like to run .100 depending on how high you will rev the motor, so i'd shoot for something in between. as for the headers i imagine you'll have clearance problems, especially around the starter. i'd call the manufacturer to make sure
 
My guess is that there wont be any problems, The cr is lowish and the lift is not that radical. But I'd never tell someone to put it together and fire it up and see what happens.

My suggestion is to do the clay and check, it will only take a couple of hours tops. Nothing like peace-of-mind in these maters. If they do need to be cut then at least you wont be doing it just-in-case.
 
Buy new springs with that cam. Those will probably be too stiff and limit your power and possibly do damge. That is why they only warranty their cams if you buy the matching springs.
 
Edbert said:
My guess is that there wont be any problems, The cr is lowish and the lift is not that radical. But I'd never tell someone to put it together and fire it up and see what happens.

My suggestion is to do the clay and check, it will only take a couple of hours tops. Nothing like peace-of-mind in these maters. If they do need to be cut then at least you wont be doing it just-in-case.

Agree. :nice:

Maniac!