Need tips, torque specs, etc for KC clutch install coming up this weekend...

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"

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Sep 5, 2004

#1

• Sep 5, 2004

• #1

Well since nobody can figure out exactly why my clutch has a burning clutch smell and yet not slipping has drove me to buy a KC Cobra clutch assembly, aluminum driveshaft, and new OEM clutch cable...I'll need the clutch eventually anyways in place of the stock NAPA one...

I was just wanting some tips to make the job go easier for those who have did it...

What are the exact torque specs I should use when bolting the flywheel, pressure plate, etc...and the only bolts i need to put loctite on is the flywheel bolts and driveshaft bolts...

Do I need one of those tailshaft seals where the driveshaft goes into the trans...

Even though the pilot bearing was replaced last year when installing the NAPA clutch I figure I will replace it again (renting a pilot bearing tool) if the KC clutch comes with it...

I'm going to get the flywheel resurfaced even though last year the flywheel was smooth...(the previous owner had recently did a 5spd swap a year or so earlier)...

Any tips on getting the clutch cable off and properly adjusted if the OEM clutch will fit on my UPR quadrant...I have a UPR firewall adjuster if that matters...

Thanks for the tips and suggestions...

 

5spd GT

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#2

• Sep 5, 2004

• #2

Also...it says that the KC Cobra clutch requires these:

Requires metric pressure plate bolts N602549-S51M an alignment dowel pins D1FZ-6397-B.

I have heard you don't need the dowel pins because it can only go on one way...

And do I need new metric pressure plate bolts...can't I just reuse my old ones...

 

5spd GT

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Sep 6, 2004

#3

• Sep 6, 2004

• #3

ttt....

 

5spd GT

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#4

• Sep 6, 2004

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You don't have to now everysingle answer...lol...just tell me anything that will help...torque specs? etc...

 

bock

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Montreal,Qc

Sep 6, 2004

#5

• Sep 6, 2004

• #5

The pilot bearing dont come with the K/C

All the stock bolts do the job.

 

5spd GT

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#6

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bock said:

The pilot bearing dont come with the K/C

All the stock bolts do the job.

Click to expand...

Yeah I'm going to order a Ford pilot bearing while I'm at it...

Thanks and keep the tips coming...

 

5spd GT

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#7

• Sep 7, 2004

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So what would be some good grease to use on the clutch cable...can I just use some "multiduty complex high temp. grease" (I have some of that) or would some bearing grease be better...and rub it over the entire clutch cable and slide it in the cable cover? I want to make it a smooth feeling clutch and lub it good...what do I need?

 

DCjuggalo

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May 18, 2003

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Charlotte, NC

Sep 7, 2004

#8

• Sep 7, 2004

• #8

hey im installing my king cobra this weekend too lol
i didnt know u needed a pilot bearing with it, can i pick one of those up at pep boys?

 

88hatchblack

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Jul 25, 2004

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Willard, Ohio

Sep 7, 2004

#9

• Sep 7, 2004

• #9

when i installed my KC i just got all new ARP hardware just to be safe instead or re-using the old stuff. it's a pretty easy install; it only took me about 3 hours. that high temp grease sounds good considering the location. i would get as much of it as possible in the cable cover. as for adjusting the cable, i got as much slack in the clutch cable as possible with all the adjustments, and then adjusted it where i wanted it after i got the clutch in. i think some dowel pins come with the kit, and all of the torque specs and recommended hardware list should be on a sheet of paper that comes with the kit. good luck!

 

5spd GT

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#10

• Sep 7, 2004

• #10

Well I found out I'm not going to be able to install it this weekend...because I contacted buyfordracing.com and they said the KC was backordered and I won't receive until Monday ...oh well I got a good price on them... $169...

Thanks for the tips...I think I'm going to get ARP flywheel bolts...

Can anybody confirm if the high temp grease will work...it is ruby in color...

You don't have to have a new pilot bearing...but it is recommended and is right there so you mis' well...I'd be willing to bet pep boys would have it...just try your local parts stores and see...good luck for you since you will be installing it this weekend and not me

 

5spd GT

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Sep 8, 2004

#11

• Sep 8, 2004

• #11

I'm almost done with this thread...so just help me out a couple more times...

So so far I need bearing grease to put on clutch cable and slide in cover, loctite for driveshaft and flywheel bolts and what else...

What are the torque specs for the flywheel, clutch assembly, driveshaft etc...

 

bock

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Montreal,Qc

Sep 8, 2004

#12

• Sep 8, 2004

• #12

Changing your crank seal is not a bad idea.You will have it in your face.



88hatchback--> did you chage it in your drive-way or on a lift? Cause i will need to do it,my KC did slip one time and i no the end is coming.

 

5spd GT

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Sep 8, 2004

#13

• Sep 8, 2004

• #13

bock said:

Changing your crank seal is not a bad idea.You will have it in your face.

Click to expand...

Changed it last year...I'll check it out again when we do it...

 

88hatchblack

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Jul 25, 2004

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Sep 8, 2004

#14

• Sep 8, 2004

• #14

bock said:

Changing your crank seal is not a bad idea.You will have it in your face.



88hatchback--> did you chage it in your drive-way or on a lift? Cause i will need to do it,my KC did slip one time and i no the end is coming.

Click to expand...

i put it up as high as i could get it on some jackstands in my garage

 

5spd GT

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#15

• Sep 8, 2004

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A buddy and I changed it last year by just jacking the rear up...we did a lot of crawling ...

So I'm going to torque the driveshaft bolts to 100lbs...what are the flywheel torque (I'm assuming pretty high)...and the ones on the clutch and all...

 

bock

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Sep 9, 2004

#16

• Sep 9, 2004

• #16

You will found all the torque you need in a Hayne manual.

 

5spd GT

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Sep 9, 2004

#17

• Sep 9, 2004

• #17

bock said:

You will found all the torque you need in a Hayne manual.

Click to expand...

Got a Haynes already...doesn't help to much...because it gives answers like 12-24 or 70-95...that is a considerable difference...I want to know what others have used I don't want to have them get loose on me or overtighten them...I want specific numbers...

 

88hatchblack

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Jul 25, 2004

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Sep 10, 2004

#18

• Sep 10, 2004

• #18

i used 24 ft/lbs; but all the recommended torque specs should come on a sheet with the KC kit

 

V

v8only

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Jul 3, 2003

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Sep 11, 2004

#19

• Sep 11, 2004

• #19

I've got them off the top of my head

-80 for the flywheel bolts
-22-24 for the pressure plate bolts
-driveshaft 80-85 pounds. drop the rear far enough to where it hangs on it's own so you can get a socket on it, if you don't, it'll hit and the socket won't go on.

new bolts is always a safe bet, but I've never had a problem so far (knock on wood) re using my old bolts

don't lube the cable at all. The cables are teflon lined, and do NOT need lubing, greasing them up will only trap dirt and grime in them, which will act like an abrasive and eventually chew it up. A properly installed cable will have no bind and will not need lubing.


best of luck

 

5spd GT

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Sep 11, 2004

#20

• Sep 11, 2004

• #20

v8only said:

I've got them off the top of my head

-80 for the flywheel bolts
-22-24 for the pressure plate bolts
-driveshaft 80-85 pounds. drop the rear far enough to where it hangs on it's own so you can get a socket on it, if you don't, it'll hit and the socket won't go on.

new bolts is always a safe bet, but I've never had a problem so far (knock on wood) re using my old bolts

don't lube the cable at all. The cables are teflon lined, and do NOT need lubing, greasing them up will only trap dirt and grime in them, which will act like an abrasive and eventually chew it up. A properly installed cable will have no bind and will not need lubing.


best of luck

Click to expand...

Thanks for #'s...

I know when I lubed the cable last year it made it easier to push in...?...but if I can just get a nice smooth travel from the quadrant to the clutch fork it should be fine without it...I'll see how it goes...