needs a new stance, springs

[Euphoric306]

the stocker look will be fine for a while, but i at least want to have my car lowered a bit. any suggestions on some (preferable) mail-order lowering spring kits? i wanna go probably 2 in the front and 1.5 in the back.

i think i read somewhere that putting in lowering springs alone could hurt your suspension and you should have a couple other things replaced at the same time anyone have any feedback to what those things might be?

thanks much, another reason is that the right side of my car is a little lower than the left side, especially in the back, and getting new springs should remedy this and get my car a lil closer to the ground at the same time. thanks again

 

[maverick0716]

I think Eibach's Sportline kit is around a 2" drop. The other thing you "should" replace at the same time is your shocks....but really you don't have to. I myself have the Eibach Pro Kit in my car and think it looks perfect. I also run the stock style shocks.

 

[cjman15]

I've been looking into this alot also. My stock ride height is looking a little lame to me these days. I'd like to drop it an inch or two, makes it look meaner. I'm guessing Eibach is tha best way to go with springs.

 

[FiveO]

these are bbk specifics on my 93GT.

 

[Euphoric306]

maverick, how much did you eibach springs set you back? if springs is all you need to replace, i might pick those up a little sooner than i thought. also, what about strut tower braces, like a 3 point or something? how much cost, and how much help does it provide? gracias

 

[Foxwolfe]

Heres a picture of my LX with Eibach Pro Kit springs all around, its been stated you dont have to, but I also upgraded to new shocks at the time.

 

[CManT1914]

BlahBlahson: I don't think Eibach makes a Sportline kit for the verts. They don't for my body style. But I threw the pro kit on there and it dropped it quite nicely. I also replaced my shocks/struts while I was under there, cus they needed to be replaced.

EDIT: The pro kit is a 1.3" drop in the front, 1.2" out back. Hope this helps.

 

[Euphoric306]

any idea of cost of the pro kit? 1.3/1.2 doesnt sound too bad, might be perfect if i wanna get some new rims n tires, cuz those stockers are gettin a lil old too. thanks

 

[maverick0716]

Unfortunately, Eibach springs usually cost quite a bit.....more than other kits. I was lucky however and got a smoking deal on mine, $218 Cdn ($161 US)

 

[stangbear427]

I had good luck with my Eibachs; and now my wife is having good luck with my Eibachs on her stang, while I have moved on to Hypercoils. It is a common misconception that you don't have to replace anything else when you do springs. This is only actually true if you are replacing the stock springs on a car with a stock suspension with a new set of stock springs, or if all you care about is how it looks. Otherwise, doing so may not show any performance improvement, and may even cause some damage. Do you want it to hook, handle, or just look good? Regardless, if you drive it often you will have to at least add c/c plates if you lower it, or risk not being able to have the front end alligned properly- which causes premature tire wear and steering disorders.

 

[maverick0716]

...Regardless, if you drive it often you will have to at least add c/c plates if you lower it, or risk not being able to have the front end alligned properly- which causes premature tire wear and steering disorders.

That's only neccesary on drops 2" and lower usually. With 1.5 and less you won't need them.

 

[cjman15]

thanks for tha info, i didn't want to have to buy caster/cambers if i don't need them... i just want to drop mine about an inch

 

[Euphoric306]

damn, that is quite a bit. oh well. you get what you pay for.

performance, not quite as much as looks at this point but once i get subframe connectors i should be looking to make a difference in handling, so i was thinking a new strut tower and stuff, ill look into it, thanks

 

[CManT1914]

any idea of cost of the pro kit? 1.3/1.2 doesnt sound too bad, might be perfect if i wanna get some new rims n tires, cuz those stockers are gettin a lil old too. thanks

I work at a parts store and got mine for $190, however they retail here for $350. I'm sure you can get them cheaper though,

 

[stangbear427]

That's only neccesary on drops 2" and lower usually. With 1.5 and less you won't need them.

That's like telling a smoker that if they only smoke one cigarette a day instead of a whole pack, it won't do any damage or affect them at all. With the stock springs, the front control arms are parallel to the ground. Any drop at all changes this, and the c/c settings on the Fox are far from perfect for performance driving anyway; changing the ride height only accentuates the problem by lowering the front roll center, cramping the suspensions room to jounce and rebound, and changing the geometry of the entire steering assembly. This has a negative effect on everything related to the front end, from handling to tire wear. It won't be as bad as drop of more than 1.5", but there is no reason to choose the lesser of two evils- and just because you've never had a problem doesn't mean you wouldn't be better off with them. I think what you may be thinking of is bumpsteer, which isn't a factor for less than a 1.5" drop. It also can't be fixed with c/c plates, which in the little time I've spent with stangs on a front end aligner I've found would be beneficial for a Fox even at the stock ride height.

performance, not quite as much as looks at this point but once i get subframe connectors i should be looking to make a difference in handling, so i was thinking a new strut tower and stuff,

OK, that's what I wanted to know. A strut tower brace will definately improve your cornering, but the springs and shocks are what determines how you ride. Aside from tires (the single biggest traction enhancing mod you can do) the dampers and springs are what makes it happen- they are responsible for keeping the contact patches of said tires on the pavement. They don't work independantly of each other, and it's important that you get dampers and springs that were intended to work together or you may actually handle worse than the stock ones did. It isn't spring rates or even damper valving that determines your ride quality or how many G you can pull, it's the combined forces of the two (mainly) which produces your wheel rate, which determines how well your car will stick based on those components. Putting new springs on a car whose shocks are either too soft or too stiff for them will throw you wheel rate askew. They are a safest bet when purchased and installed as a [application specific designed] package, or at least purchased from someone who can sell you a spring that is rated appropriately for the dampers you have, stock or otherwise- as well as appropriate for the kind of driving demands you will be putting on them.

 

[maverick0716]

That's like telling a smoker that if they only smoke one cigarette a day instead of a whole pack, it won't do any damage or affect them at all. With the stock springs, the front control arms are parallel to the ground. Any drop at all changes this, and the c/c settings on the Fox are far from perfect for performance driving anyway; changing the ride height only accentuates the problem by lowering the front roll center, cramping the suspensions room to jounce and rebound, and changing the geometry of the entire steering assembly. This has a negative effect on everything related to the front end, from handling to tire wear. It won't be as bad as drop of more than 1.5", but there is no reason to choose the lesser of two evils- and just because you've never had a problem doesn't mean you wouldn't be better off with them. I think what you may be thinking of is bumpsteer, which isn't a factor for less than a 1.5" drop. It also can't be fixed with c/c plates, which in the little time I've spent with stangs on a front end aligner I've found would be beneficial for a Fox even at the stock ride height.

I'll put it this way. With a 1.5" lowering, you can still easily get the front end alignment within the specs the alignment computer says they should be in.....meaning you tires should wear just fine (the same as coming from the factory) Performance autocross driving might be a different story, but if you're just going for casual street use, then you don't need them.

 

[stangbear427]

Well, I don't Autocross- but I'm not "casual" about anything with my car either, especially street use. Guess I just have some issues. Already knew that though...

 

[onebad7up]

I just put lowering springs on my '90 vert and it made a world of difference on the look. I found some Ford Motorsports Lowering springs online for only $130 shipped. They don't give the performance of the eibach but they give ya a smoother ride. I love em. They dropped the front like 1.5 and the back 1. The cc plates are a must though because now my tires are all bowed out and the insides are worn out.

 

[maverick0716]

I just put lowering springs on my '90 vert and it made a world of difference on the look. I found some Ford Motorsports Lowering springs online for only $130 shipped. They don't give the performance of the eibach but they give ya a smoother ride. I love em. They dropped the front like 1.5 and the back 1. The cc plates are a must though because now my tires are all bowed out and the insides are worn out.

Did you get an alignment after you installed them? Now that is a must. The reason I ask is because if it was aligned, even if you couldn't get it within the range of where it should be, it shouldn't have been bad enough where you could see your tires bowed out.....just wondering