new A-arms..will i feel a difference?

[jmd2914]

right now im pretty sure im running the origonal balljoings and a-arm bushings. if i swapped to the MM tubular ones would i feel a difference? would it be worth it? just seems easier to replace the whole a arm instead of pulling out my stockers and doings balljoints/bushings. car is pretty much a daily driver right now

thanks

Joel

 

[cenok is family]

i'm sure steering response and handling will feel a little better. off topic, do you have any pics of your car?

 

[jmd2914]

yeah i think i have some somewhere, lemme see if i can find them

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

You're better off replacing your bushings and balljoints with MOOGS. It's gonna run you about 250 including having them pressed in. Mustangs Unlimited sells new FOX stock style arms with 94-95 low friction balljoints for over 300 plus shipping!!!

Tubluar lowers will give you squeaks and noises down the road. Plus you have to make sure you order the a-arms with spring perches, or else you gotta buy coil overs too. My buddy has all tubular stuff and his car is a little hairy over bumps and RXR tracks.

 

[jmd2914]

im already running MM full coilovers so i was thinking about ordering theird a-arms. will they get squeaky down the line? even if i keep them greased? what kind of ball joints do they use?

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

They will get squeaky if they lack grease. I would lube them every oil change, or once/twice a year depending how much you drive. I wouldn't worry about that too much because of how often we drive our cars...next to never for me. I don't know what type of balljoints they use. I have been told by my Mustang shop that he has seen them let people down. I wanted to buy the whole set up for my Cobra, and he talked me out of it.

I tell ya, just having my 100K+ stock A-arms on my black notch vs. my brand new bushing/ball joints in my stock A-arms on my yellow notch....night and day difference. Handles bumps much better and has a smoother feel.

 

[jmd2914]

what exactly do you mean by " let people down" and how exactly did he talk you out of it? im curious because this is my daily driver

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

He just meant that they got let down, because they went bad early, and replacements were hard to find. I think this happens to hard core road racers, they might be okay for normal driving.

He talked me out of spending 700+ dollars on all tubular stuff and coil overs by saying this"

"Matt, my Mach 1 ran 9.90's this year, and I still have all the stock K-frame and a-arms."

I guess my 12 second car doesn't need it.

 

[jmd2914]

i dont really drag race all that much, mostley twisties but that has slowed down too cuz im working more, the reason why i was thinking of the whole new tubular a arm is because
a. i already have coilovers
b. install would take less time then pulling my old ones out and redoing them
c. it would only cost me an extra $80 or so do get the new tubular ones

 

[old_blue]

a little off topic... but, eventually when I get my 5 lug stuff I am going steeda lower bjoint. two birds with a huge stone.

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

I would go ahead and go for it then since you already have coil overs. I just didn't want to spend a "G" because I know that's what it would have added up to.

 

[67coupe]

I've been using the MM coilovers and tubulars for 6 months now. Daily driver - 10,000 miles since install. No strange noises to speak of. Ride comfort and handling is great.

Also, the MM tubulars have grease fittings.

One more thing to add:

During dis-assembly, rotate your factory arms through the travel range while they are still torqued (after the spring and spindle is removed). Notice the effort. Now do the same after the MM's are installed and torqued. The difference is night and day. This is one of the reasons why ride comfort is maintained with higher wheel rates.