New Best in the 331.... with street tires.

[gcomfx.com]

So apparently we have a difference of opinion of a cheater slick. ET Drag = cheater slick to you. Got ya.

This is what I have, call them what you want :

Mickey Thompson 3743 - Mickey Thompson ET Street Tires - summitracing.com

Mickey Thompson ET Street Tires
Drag slick performance in a D.O.T. approved tire.

Now you can get Mickey Thompson ET Drag Race tire performance in a D.O.T. approved, bias-ply street legal tire. These ET Street tires were designed specifically for NMCA, Easy Street, and Outlaw Street competition, but they're ideal for any class that uses a street-type race tire. They have a special tread compound that Mickey Thompson says outperforms other D.O.T. race tires, and considering how good the original ET Drags are, we don't doubt them. Other ET Street features include state-of-the-art, two-ply wrinkle wall construction on a black nylon bias-ply carcass.

 

[blksn955.o]

IIRC MT also has a stiff wall ET drag and ET street (non radial) that is supposed to really help with the wobble/shake up top. It has been a while since I looked but I want to say the part number has an "S" to denote stiff wall. They are not supposed to have any issues with launching either.

 

[Stopsign32v]

Why on earth would you want a stiff wall drag slick?

 

[blksn955.o]

Before you shake your head coming off like a smart @ss...research and read on hardcore were people race in classes using them. These are the guys you read about in the rags and who are breaking records and are trapping over in some cases well over 150mph.

I generally do not mind a difference in opinion as it is always better to get another view on the matter. That said those other views offer more than a . Just having a shaking head after the comment comes off as rude.

As to why, if you read my post it says why. They seem to not suffer any launch issues (still wrinkle) and are more stable up top due to the stiffer sidewall. Do not confuse this with a 315/35/17 radial sidewall or any other radial with a totally different sidewall construction as they are still a bias ply tire, just stiffer than normal.

Granted they are used were more extreme speeds are reached but if you are having the wobble/wiggle issue and want to get rid of it without going to a radial to feel safer...they are still worth using on a slower car.

 

[Stopsign32v]

The sway is not bad at all as long as you know it will be there. Hell its not even bad with 26" tall slicks @ 10psi and 17x9 stock wheels up front with street tires.

The softer sidewall will not hit the drivetrain as hard as a stiffer one and can and has saved parts from breaking that have been broken from a stiffer sidewall tire.

The softer sidewall HELPS in traction.

So again....why would you want a stiff sidewall slick? Surely you are taking this information from your own personal experience, and not just reading on the world wide web right?

 

[Black95GTS]

The sway is not bad at all as long as you know it will be there. Hell its not even bad with 26" tall slicks @ 10psi and 17x9 stock wheels up front with street tires.

The softer sidewall will not hit the drivetrain as hard as a stiffer one and can and has saved parts from breaking that have been broken from a stiffer sidewall tire.

The softer sidewall HELPS in traction.

So again....why would you want a stiff sidewall slick? Surely you are taking this information from your own personal experience, and not just reading on the world wide web right?

A heavy car, that hits hard, will wrap a regular sidewall on a hard launch. If the car launches hard, right around the standard shift from 1 to 2, the tires will "un-load" as the car settles and can cause wheels to hop, which will kill early footages not to mention make for an uncomfortable feeling if you're not waiting for it. Thin wall slicks will also be wobbly when driving around, but this is a non-issue in my mind, cause you're running slicks and thats what happens.

An automatic reduces this phenomenon. The transmission applies a steady power to the tires and the unloading of the tires is reduced. On a stick car, especially a heavy one, I'd consider stiff wall slicks. I'd also consider them on an automatic that launches off a two-step.

It depends on the car. Plenty of great times being run on stiff wall slicks.

Adam

 

[gcomfx.com]

Surely you are taking this information from your own personal experience, and not just reading on the world wide web right?

Irony = I post personal experience in the times my car runs where I live and KNOW it's a respectable time. However it is disreguarded, and on top of that responded to like it's all I can get out of my current setup. Even though I clearly state the car is falling on it's face in the middle of 2nd gear. Plus, I added later, I'm basically running the car in 2 out of 3 gears at the moment due to gear setup. But that too doesn't warrant a descent post from you. Instead you move on to other topics to discredit. Now, you can't take some constructive criticism about how your posts come off and you in turn just reinforce the issue.

Ease up a little will ya? I've seen your posts about how the 94-95 section slowed down a lot. I agree... so let's help it grow again. There are way better ways to get your point across without sounding disrespectful. The best part, if you accomplish this technique more people will add value to your comments.

For instance: I could have asked you to show me a 302 H/C/I car running 12.8x on actual street tires with an AODE and 3.55 gearing. (Finding one cutting out in the middle of 2nd gear would be a plus too.) But I didn't do that, because it's a bit petty and doesn't help our section of stangnet at all. Plus now it would have to be YOUR personal experience, not something your read on the internet.

 

[blksn955.o]

The sway is not bad at all as long as you know it will be there. Hell its not even bad with 26" tall slicks @ 10psi and 17x9 stock wheels up front with street tires.

The issue is not how bad or if one can put up with the wiggle/wobble but if one feels they are unhappy with having to do so and looking to remove the wobble/wiggle. The stiff sidewall is proven in fact to help this issue with no ill effects.

The softer sidewall will not hit the drivetrain as hard as a stiffer one and can and has saved parts from breaking that have been broken from a stiffer sidewall tire.

The stiffer sidewall slicks again have no ill effects on the 60ft and like Black95GTS posted is actually better in some cases.

The softer sidewall HELPS in traction.

yes, a softer sidewall helps... but...yet again...the stiffer sidewall does not cause any ill effects. You have to keep in mind the degree of softer-ness over a regular bias ply drag/ET street type tire is not much and NOTHING like a radial compared to the same type of tires.

So again....why would you want a stiff sidewall slick? Surely you are taking this information from your own personal experience, and not just reading on the world wide web right?

I never once said I had personal experience with the stiff sidewall slicks....yet. I found this information researching what tires to run on my 15x8 welds I run at the track to replace my currant DR on a VERY no BS site and local racers. I want all the stability I can get with that package.

Might I ask since you are so against them if you have ever ran a stiff sidewall slick/ET street since you need such hands on findings? Or if you have even run on a regular drag/ET street bias ply tire? Just to stop your train of though I have run on bias ply MT ET streets that a buddy and I went in together on.

So again before you give a with nothing but incorrect information causing issues, being more of an arse, being the reason people are leaving, and acting stupid instead of just ignorant. why not learn form others who have done the research. If you feel you are 100% correct and know it all on the subject go over to hardcor50 and spew your diarrhea of the keyboard to those that do run these tires and love them if you need firsthand information. Go ahead set them straight on the matter, those guys have forgotten more than I and many will know about mustang racing and track tech. Good luck with that.

This is the last post I am making on the matter as to not trash a tech post. If a mod feels I am being harsh I understand and they can remove this post.

 

[fastgtfairlane]

that guy is quite rediculous. hes on sn95forums and says the same rediculousness. just disregard it lol

 

[gcomfx.com]

Knocked another tenth off and beat my 07 time.

R/T - .1199
60ft - 1.9010
330ft - 5.2915
1/8ET - 8.1456
1/8mph - 85.98
1000ft - 10.6360
1000mph - 98.38
1/4ET - 12.7295
1/4mph - 107.76

My 07 N/A best was 12.77 @ 106.66. That was the first new engine, 3.73s, and D/Rs that were an inch shorter than the POS street tires I was on Sunday. Plus no hickup in 2nd gear like I have now.

Ran a 12.83 @ 108.25 on the first run of the day Sunday. I switched wheels with my g/f's 95. Now I have her stock waffle wheels. My car looks like poo.

 

[Zero Signal]

Still trapping in 2nd? Definitely got to get that taken care of! I have a feeling there's a lot to be had once you get your drivetrain figured out. 108mph in 2nd gear is wack.

 

[Killercanary]

Congrats on the new best. What is planned for the combo to keep maximizing it? Are you altering the converter lock up at all during your run?

 

[gcomfx.com]

Nah, I only ran that one time in 2nd and trapped 106. I use third a little. LOL

KC - I haven't played with the converter lock up at all. I have some depressing dyno results to post up. I did a pull in 2nd, to show the issue at 5,000 in 2nd. Then we did a 3rd gear pull. Just about the same HP in both pulls. The numbers were so low, people thought I had hurt the engine. Just to be sure, I took it to the track the following day and ran a new best.

This thing has so much more in it... it's not even funny.

 

[Venom351R]

Even with the small disappointments, my whole night was outstanding. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I would have a 12 second street car... n/a.

Feels great doesn't it I was really happy to get back into the 12's last year and this year w/ out the aid of boost this time

BTW - 10 way adj. Strange struts go in hopefully this week.

Let me know how you like these and how they preform, I'm looking at getting a set for next year.

 

[gcomfx.com]

I will. I just bought some used PBR calipers. I plan to put the struts on the same time I add SS brake lines and get everything clearanced for 15x4s in the front.

 

[Venom351R]

I will. I just bought some used PBR calipers. I plan to put the struts on the same time I add SS brake lines and get everything clearanced for 15x4s in the front.

haha its like we have the same plans for the Mustangs. I also plan on doing a set of skinny's up front. Just have to figure out what will fit b/c of the calipers I have on it. After I get the tune its all suspension work for next year. I plan on getting the Maximum Motorsports Torque Arm Package. It has alot more in it, I hit 110MPH in the 1/4 on my last trip to the track this year untuned.

 

[gcomfx.com]

I'm headed the Summit Prostar direction. You?

 

[Venom351R]

I'm headed the Summit Prostar direction. You?

I have the weld Prostars on the back now but I know if I want to run 11's Im going to need skinny's up front.

 

[MysteryMachine]

glad you got this thing somewhat figured out. Last time I was around here you were working on the engine. I can't remember if it was the 2nd or 3rd time. I think the 3rd. Keep on it man you'll get it all dialed in soon

 

[Killercanary]

My dad and I both run Strange adjustable shocks and struts... I highly recommend them!

I'll have new times for my 331 this weekend, if the datalogs are any indication as to how much better the car is running with the new heads I will blow my previous best out of the water. I hope I'm right and don't come home disappointed.