New brake lines, for disc/disc setup question

Hi
I don't think you'll need that proportion valve on a disc/disc setup, unlike disc/drum.
Happy Trails!

I highly recommend putting in a proportion valve. I have 4 wheel disc on my car with a proportion valve for the rear brakes. The car was equipped with this system as i bought it. Under heavy breaking into a corner the rear tires started to block, rear gets loose and "woobly", no nice feelings when this happens! To heal this behavior i put the car on a brake test-stand and adjustet it. I was damn happy that the valve already was installed and the adjustment was a big improvent in ride stability under heavy breaking into a corner.

I dont have the picture in my head how the system is plumbed up, but i can take a look at the car and give you the info. But this can happen earliest friday evening. My car is parked in a garage right now and i`m not near it.

greets Mario

jae902 said:

I bought a new disc/disc master cylinder from street or track (st-mc). I'm basically Running all new lines to all brakes and want to make sure that I'm doing this correct. Run a line from the rear port to a brake tee and out to the front brakes. The front port goes to a porportioning valve then out to the rear. Is this correct?

Click to expand...

yep, you'll need an adj prop valve for the rear unless you have an original one for the car with disc/disc.

Alright, i have taken a look at my brake system:

In the first picture you see the master cylinder and the adjuster valve for the rear brakes. The brake lines go direct from the bowl to a junction block - see second pic. On the junction block are markings which line connects on the right spot on it. In my case the front bowl goes to the rear brake entry port and the rear bowl goes to the front entry port from the junction block. There are three outs from the junction block:
One to the drivers side brake
One to the co-drivers side brake
One to the rear brakes - the line goes to the rearend where it is splitted with a tee to the drivers and co-drivers rear brake side.

As i already said, the car was equipped with this setup as i bought it. I only upgraded from a manual to a power brake system. It functions very well and the manual master cylinder was connected similar to the junction block as it now is.

Hopefully a more experienced user will join this thread to confirm 100% that this is the correct way to plump it all in, but i never saw it any different from other stangs in my area.

first picture


second picture: