I just installed new rotors and hawk pads all the way around.. they stop great but now i have that spongy feel on the pedal.. i did bleed them but maybe i don’t have the right sequence or something.. i also replaced the entire system with new brake fluid.. so im pretty sure there is air some were.. can anybody help? i have a 2000 GT...
NEW BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING SEQUENCE?
- Thread starter blockhead
- Start date
nyuk98gt
15 Year Member
blockhead:
Procedure is to bleed from the furthest corner first and work towards the master cylinder. Then, there are two bleeders on the m/c that have to be bled. Give that a try and you should end up with a nice, firm pedal.
If the m/c went dry, then you might have air in the ABS system. For an '04, the air can only be removed by your trusty Ford dealer (using a specific machine).
*edit:
Check out this way cool site for brake info:
http://www. veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/
(remove the space in front of the 'veryuseful....' to make the link work).
*end of edit.
Hope this helps.
Procedure is to bleed from the furthest corner first and work towards the master cylinder. Then, there are two bleeders on the m/c that have to be bled. Give that a try and you should end up with a nice, firm pedal.
If the m/c went dry, then you might have air in the ABS system. For an '04, the air can only be removed by your trusty Ford dealer (using a specific machine).
*edit:
Check out this way cool site for brake info:
http://www. veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/
(remove the space in front of the 'veryuseful....' to make the link work).
*end of edit.
Hope this helps.
nyuk98gt thanks for the help.. I’m going to have to do that this weekend, but I’m pretty sure i have air in my abs. cuz they don’t seem to kick in but instead they lock up.. unfortunately i was forced to test them when a semi truck decided to cut into my lane. i have a 2000 GT would that model have to be taken in to fix the ABS? or is this something i can do? if so how?
thanks again..
thanks again..
nyuk98gt
15 Year Member
blockhead:
Sorry to hear about the semi scare -- good reaction time on your part!
Air in the ABS system: According to the info on the website mentioned, a special diagnostic tester/scanner (Worldwide Diagnostic System (WDS) 418-F224, New Generation STAR (NGS) Tester 418-F052, or equivalent scan tool) is required to properly bleed the ABS unit. On the bright side, if you did not open any of the hydraulic connections to the hydraulic control unit (HCU) and you were pretty careful about closing the bleed screws at the calipers, I will bet that you just need to bleed the master cylinder. I had a spongy pedal after flushing my brake system and it firmed up nicely once I bled the m/c.
So, try bleeding the m/c first. If that does not work, then you will have to bring the car in so the ABS unit can be bled properly.
Good luck!
Chris
Sorry to hear about the semi scare -- good reaction time on your part!
Air in the ABS system: According to the info on the website mentioned, a special diagnostic tester/scanner (Worldwide Diagnostic System (WDS) 418-F224, New Generation STAR (NGS) Tester 418-F052, or equivalent scan tool) is required to properly bleed the ABS unit. On the bright side, if you did not open any of the hydraulic connections to the hydraulic control unit (HCU) and you were pretty careful about closing the bleed screws at the calipers, I will bet that you just need to bleed the master cylinder. I had a spongy pedal after flushing my brake system and it firmed up nicely once I bled the m/c.
So, try bleeding the m/c first. If that does not work, then you will have to bring the car in so the ABS unit can be bled properly.
Good luck!
Chris
S.D.-Stangman
Founding Member
i had the same problem a while back. bled the damn system several times with no luck, then bled the M/C and it was all good!
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