new clutch/clutch cable/throwout bearing/rebuilt tranny

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draigen

New Member

Sep 17, 2006

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May 10, 2007

#1

• May 10, 2007

• #1

Hi all, I am having a few probs trying to get the clutch working.I will list what ive done and tried so far.
New clutch put in and worked OK. Tranny (T-5) was rebuilt less than 100k after install.
Installed new tranny and ford racing clutch cable (double hook quad) no firewall adjuster.
When trying to adjust the clutch it doesn't matter how loose or tight i adjust the cable it feels the same.tough to get into gear.All 4 tires are in the air , while I'm trying this.I cant get it into any gear without the tires starting to spin.If I pull the E-brake to stop them the car stalls.I can push it hard into first without grinding but not without tire's spinning.Reverse grinds.Everything worked OK before new cable and trans rebuild. Could it be clutch is a bit sticky from sitting? would putting rear tires on ground break it loose? I have pulled the tranny back out to inspect the clutch , and it all looks good.

Any help appreciated. Thanks

 

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speedytang

Founding Member

Jul 28, 1999

765

1

17

Marengo,Ohio,US

May 10, 2007

#2

• May 10, 2007

• #2

It sounds to me that the transmission is not assembled correctly.

 

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draigen

New Member

Sep 17, 2006

7

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0

May 10, 2007

#3

• May 10, 2007

• #3

eww dont say that! I have a feeling it's something in the clutch or cable. I can start the car in nuetral no problem. If i dont press the clutch and lightly push shifter toward any forward gear the tires start to move(while off the ground). It acts the same way with clutch pedal all the way down. the clutch fork moves as far as it can go but will not disengage it seems

 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

3,133

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108

Chicagoland

May 10, 2007

#4

• May 10, 2007

• #4

Something definitely sounds amiss with the clutch. How did your bearing retainer look? New pilot bearing? What did you torque the pressure plate bolts to? How did the pivot ball for the clutch fork look? It just sounds a lot like the clutch isn't disengaging, but I definitely wouldn't want to pop the car on the ground and start it with the chance of the car being stuck in gear. Why no way to adjust the clutch after adding an aftermarket quadrant?

 

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draigen

New Member

Sep 17, 2006

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May 10, 2007

#5

• May 10, 2007

• #5

Bearing retainer is a new steel one put on with rebuild.pivot ball is good.pilot bearing i put in new with clutch.I can adjust at the clutch fork but I can go from fully tightened to lots of slack in the cable and it acts the same.I also tried both hooks in new quad.I have the tranny out again now and took the clutch out. there was a bit of rust on the flywheel and pressure plate surface....didnt look like it was even close to enough to be sticking but will reassemble and try again.

 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

3,133

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108

Chicagoland

May 10, 2007

#6

• May 10, 2007

• #6

What are you torquing the pressure plate bolts to? If they're too loose, your clutch won't disengage and you'll have this very problem (had a bad torque wrench that caused it). The bolts should be 12-24 lb. ft. I typically do mine on the higher end, usually up around 22 lb. ft.

 

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draigen

New Member

Sep 17, 2006

7

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May 10, 2007

#7

• May 10, 2007

• #7

I put them at 20 when i first did the clutch...it worked ok then took trans out for rebuild without touching the clutch bolts.It sat for around 2months before Trans went in again.Is it possible the clutch disc was just stuck on the flywheel slightly? It wasnt overly hard to remove it and the rust wasnt a whole lot.With the tires being in the air it never got a good jolt to break it free. I thought that might be it so I pulled the e-break to see if tires would stop. That made the engine stall.

 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

3,133

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108

Chicagoland

May 10, 2007

#8

• May 10, 2007

• #8

I'm about out of ideas, unless your new cable is stretched already, to the point where it's not releasing. You said it worked prior to swapping transmissions, without removing the clutch, so it still points to the cable or quadrant being the problem. If you took the clutch apart and it freed itself, that may have been the issue, but I've really never experienced it, even after my car sat for nearly 6 months when I killed the factory engine.

 

D

Deleted member 87397

May 10, 2007

#9

• May 10, 2007

• #9

Are you using an adjustable cable? Sometimes they work great, and sometimes they suck. get a stock Ford non adjustable cable and a firewall adjuster for fine tuning it and that should fix your problem assuming everthing was installed correctly and the trans is not broken.

 

5.0TailPipeHump

Member

Dec 5, 2006

153

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17

May 10, 2007

#10

• May 10, 2007

• #10

Im having the exact same problem and would like to know the outcome of this, i recently installed a qaud ,cable,fork and clutchkit , Oh and the steelthorwout bering retainerand its dam hard to get into gear and not engauging properly, if i get any info i post up.

 

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draigen

New Member

Sep 17, 2006

7

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0

May 10, 2007

#11

• May 10, 2007

• #11

Cable seems to be fine...Can adjust it far enough to make clutch fork hit bellhousing if I want it to.

 

D

Deleted member 87397

May 10, 2007

#12

• May 10, 2007

• #12

draigen said:

Cable seems to be fine...Can adjust it far enough to make clutch fork hit bellhousing if I want it to.

Click to expand...

It's still possible to have too much slack in the cable even though the fork will go all the way to the bell. If that cable you have is adjustable I'd bet money that's your problem. All it sounds like is the clutch is not disengaging enough to make it go into gear smoothly, so either something in your trans is f'ed, the fingers on your pressure plate are bent/weak, something got re-installed wrong, or you simply need better adjustment in your cable. Hence the need for the firewall adjuster. I had the same problems with mine on the first go around. Once I installed the adjuster and a not adj cable and did played around with it I got it spot on. If you are going with an adjuster, get a non adjustable cable. It just makes things so much easier. Hope you get it working well bro.

 

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draigen

New Member

Sep 17, 2006

7

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0

May 11, 2007

#13

• May 11, 2007

• #13

Ok ..tranny clutch back in and running smooth! Cant believe a couple months would stick the clutch to the flywheel. Im guessing if I had of dropped the wheels to the ground, and tried to move it that way, it would have broke free and saved myself the re&re on tranny/clutch.Oh well live and learn.

 

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draigen

New Member

Sep 17, 2006

7

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0

May 11, 2007

#14

• May 11, 2007

• #14

And thanks for all the replies ..much appreciated