New dragstrip times

[Vinyl66]

I ran my 66' Coupe at the strip last night testing the 347 engine for the first time and traction was nowhere to be found. Granted,I have 40 year old stock leaf springs with KYB's, 600 lb/in front coils, and tiny BFG 215/60 14 drag radials on stock steel wheels.
While this suspension was fine for my 302 engine running low 13's, this engine just simply overpowers it. Instead of flooring it off the line I had to BABY it out of the hole and slowly get on the gas not to light up the tires.

It was test and tune night so I fiddled with the carb floats between runs because it acted like it ran out of gas just after the 1/8 mile on my first 3 runs. It helped because I picked up 2mph on my 4th and final run as the engine did not lay down on the top end. I took it easy on the motor as well, only shifting at about 5800-5900 rpm every shift.
I did'nt mess with the timing. It is set at 12 initial and 32 total. Does this sound close optimum?

I ended up running 12.44 at 108.68mph on my 4th pass. My 60 foots started out at 2.16 and I got them down to 1.95 on the 12.4 pass. I ran my first 7 second et in the 1/8 mile during that pass as well. It was 7.98 at 89mph.

Now I have to figure out what to do to get my 60 foots into at least the 1.6 second range where they should be. My limited slip was acting more like limited grip last night as one tire turned (driver side) much more than pass. side. Any recommendations on traction bars? I know the traction masters are cheap and I hear they work well. I will likely put the battery in the trunk too.
I want to keep the small tires and concentrate on the suspension. Any ideas? Would stiffer leafs help?

 

[ttoney]

I have heard that Cal-Trac's are great for this situation. That is probably the route I am going..... I believe Summit has them for a decent price.

Also, a build your own design here: http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html

Perhaps we could get Opentracker or Daze to build some up?


Edit: I was wrong, Summit has Slide a links. Can't remember which, but one is better than the other.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CEE-2094&N=303812+115&autoview=sku

 

[biggyfan1]

nice times man! i hope to see about the same. i already have trac bars and the Batt in the trunk. with some 225 65 15 pizza cutters in back lol. im hoping to get some 26x10.5x15 MT's back there.

 

[fastback brian]

caltrac can set you up with bars, new leafs and good adjustable shocks.
You ran pretty good times, suprised that the drag radials couldnt keep up, must have been poor track prep.your gonna need a short tire to work with the 3.55 gear, maybe an et drag, I use a 26x8.5 on a custom 14x7 steel rim.

 

[Vinyl66]

I have been looking seriously at the Competition Engineering Slide-a-link bars. They cost a lot more than the traction master underride bars. The traction masters are not adjustable though. It would be nice to be able to set preload on the bars but are they worth the extra expense? Does anyone here have any experience with either the Comp. Eng, Caltracs, or Tracton Masters?

I will keep the small drag radials for a while because they give me a little extra gearing to go with the 3.55's so I will try to get the suspension to work with them.

I like the link about the build your own bars! I'd probably butcher that project like I do most everyting else.

 

[fastback brian]

Slide links do work, not suprising since they borrow the same design as the caltracs. caltracs are prbably the most used and proven bar. but you need a good spring and shock to make any bar work the way they should. I bought my caltracs, mono leafs and ranchos shocks for under 700 from calvert racing a few years ago. And then theres the fact that you have a small tube axle housing, I know caltrac's can set you up dont know about comp slide links.
Adjustability is nice to have, not every setup and chasiss is perfect and you dont want to find out at the track that your welded on traction master bars is causing your car to pull or unload.

 

[12sec67]

congrats on the time.

i believe there was a thead on here before about how to get a classic to hook up at the track.

i've heard of 66's getting 1.6-1.7 60' s with just a set of 26 x 10 set of ET slicks but you are going to need some 15" rims first.

 

[thehueypilot]

Stiffer leaf springs, CalTracks or equiv., adjustable shocks front and rear, 6 cyl coil springs up front, disconnect front sway bar, will get you 1.6 60' times. That's what I had until I retired my car from racing and bought a late model to race.

 

[302 coupe]

don't waste your time with the traction masters. Go ahead and get some cal-tracs or slide-a-links, yuo won't regret it. If you need to keep the small wheels and tires, call up Calvert Racing, they can set you up with a spring and shock package that will work well with your car.

 

[fastback brian]

http://www.calvertracing.com/

 

[allcarfan]

just wondering what the rest of your combo is.....stall, heads, intake....

 

[Vinyl66]

I've done a little reading and it looks like the Slide a links or Caltracs are a much better traction bar than anything else out there for Classic Mustangs. I did receive some money yesterday (April 16) for my birthday so the new traction is in the very near future I just cant stand knowing that there is a much better et in the car and I just cant put it to the ground.

Also I am thinking of putting the shelby drop back to stock and putting the stock front coil springs (much softer than the 600 in/lb'ers) back in with a set of adjustable drag shocks. This should allow the front to rise much faster and work well with the traction bars I get.

Anyway the rest of my combo is:

347 with Scat crank and KB flat top hyper pistons
Comp. cam XE274H (non roller) 230/236 @ .050
Untouched AFR185's
Demon 650 Vacuum secondary (A 750 would probably pick it up some)
Comp. 1.6 RR
Prof. Products Air Gap intake (I think a Victor Jr. would pick it up)
Edge 3000 stall converter
Hooker 1 5/8" Comp. Headers, 2 1/2" exhaust and Flowmasters
C4 with Transgo shift kit
3.55 gears and limited slip (3.80's and locker would be nice)

It's a pretty mild 347 but it runs pretty well. Since I busted through a good portion of the 12's already(first time out), I am now on a quest to run an 11.99!!

 

[allcarfan]

i think with some different tires and some caltracs...you will be in the 11s easily.

 

[geneos5546]

i have 67 fastback with caltracs they seem to work good on the street, have not been to trac yet, what are you gettin for hp, im running 302 with paxton 360rwhp just wonderin what my car might run also 355s and c-4, also got caltracs at cobra automotive for about 400.00

 

[Vinyl66]

Geneos,
I have no idea how much horsepower the engine is making but a dyno run is on the horizon. I am not really as interested in the HP numbers as I am tuning the carb and timing for most HP and torque under the curve. Your '67 is putting down some good numbers at 360RWHP. I bet the thing is a blast to drive. Take it to the nearest strip and test it out and then let us know.

As far as traction goes, a lot of people on Fordmuscle praise the much cheaper Traction Master bars. (Of course they don't say they are better than the Caltracs and Slide a links.) Project 67 mustang on that site has some 1.5x second 60 footers with them. I am still debating that issue.

There was a Viper at the strip on Friday that had WAY more power than me (indicated by his 120 mph) but only managed to run 12.2's. I raced a Mercedes big black sedan that dynoed 600RWHP and I beat him by 2 tenths. There was a Subaru WRX with 400+ RWHP running 12.4's just like me. If I get the extra traction I want, then my little unassuming Vinyl top '66 will be able to handily beat all of these cars (unless of course the Viper finds some traction too).

 

[302 coupe]

traction masters are not adjustable, and they place the instant center way out in front of the car. I used to run them, and yeah, they eliminate axle hop for the most part, but other than that, they don't help plant the tires whatsoever, they just allow you to spin the tires more smoothly, lol. Cal-tracs, etc, not only completely eliminate wheel hop, they also help plant the tires by acting on the instant center. My 60fts went from mid 2.20's to consistent 1.82's when I switched from 620 coils/KYB's/traction masters to 6cyl coils/drag shocks up front only/and cal-tracs. I run a mild 306, 3500 stall C4, and 225/60/15 street tires(not drag radials or anything). I think you could take .20 off your 60ft's pretty easily, which by the end of the track could be worth closer to .40, getting you real close to that 11.99.

 

[Vinyl66]

That is great info 302 coupe! I like hearing first hand experience with performance bolt-ons. That is an amazing decrease in 60 foot times on your car!
If I could just get into the 1.7 range I would be much happier. I have never heard anything but good things about the Caltracs.
Has anyone else here bolted on some Caltracs and dropped their 60 footers a tenth or more?

 

[Stangninjak]

Nice times Vinyl.

I am hoping to take my baby to the track soon, mods are in the sig. My 03 Cobra ran a best 12.3@116, she had 450 rwhp/490 rwtq. I am hoping to get at least in the 12's, or heh maybe even match that time. I have traction bars, so I hope with some drag radials, I will hook up on the track. Have not dynoed yet, but as you pointed out, big HP numbers mean nonthing. Its putting it to the ground that counts. Dyno sheets help you tune, and brag to your buddies about your build
Nonthing better than getting a kill on a guy who is bragging about how much power they have, then getting whoop by your classic !

 

[washMO66]

You sound like where I was at a few years back when I put a 347 in my old 66 coupe and was trying to get it sorted out. I started out almost with an identical combo as you, 347, dual plane intake etc.... Here is what worked for me and there are people on this board that didn't believe me until they witnessed it at WFC8.

I ran 1.59 60' times
11.28 1/4 @ 119MPH

My set up was;

5 leaf reverse eyes with regular shocks
heavy rear sway bar
Currie 9" w/ detroit true trac 3:73's

Engine / tranny combo was;

347ci 10.8-1 compression, 93 block smoothed for better oil return
AFR 185's (ported & polished by Joe Mondello)
Port matched Vic jr
mighty demon 750 w/ 1" spacer
KB hypers
Lunati rods & crank
XE274
MSD pro billet
MSD blaster coil
MSD 6AL
C-4 w/ 2500 stall (footbraking it to 3K)
hooker super comps, X and flow 40's

My car launched straight and was dead consistant and you could drive it on the street all day long, sit in traffic whatever. Bottom line is that you have a ton of potential with your car. I think my old car with a XE286 and a better stall was a high 10 second car.

My suggestions;

1. I also started with a dual plane because eveyone said " single planes are not as streetable" Horse **** I say my man. Get a Port matched Vic jr and you will die from the high end power you pick up, your stroker already has plenty of low end so don't fear losing torque (my 60' times picked up with the Single Plane upgrade!)

2. 750 mighty demon, mechanical secondaries - I also started with a 650, I picked up 2 10ths with that change alone.

3. Before you do 1&2 get some 15" drag lights w/ 26X10X15's and screw them in, not sure what rear you have but you need a 9" or you will shell your 8" on slicks. I had Detroit true trac and it rocked.

You have a low to mid 11 second car but like I was didn't know it until I learned what works and what doesn't.

Cal - tracs or anything like that - I didn't need it but with more stall and more cam I would have probably done that next.

Sad part - I sold my car to a buddy and he has done everything that I wanted to do to finish it, i.e. $8K in paint, flaming river R&P, disc brakes, 3800 stall and yes that XE286 cam.

Good part - My Saleen is on eBay for sale right now and when I sell it guess what, I'm buying my old car back, putting a new cage in it and shooting for high 10's.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...=4632457644&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MESE:IT&rd=1

In case anyone is interested - It's fast, but not like the old car.

 

[Vinyl66]

Thanks Stangninjak.
So true about the bragging to friends bit! You can have your dynoed big HP numbers and dyno sheets but when you get beat at the strip by someone with way less HP it makes you think.

Great to see you post on the Classic forum washMO.
I remember reading about your old 66 on here and being very impressed with how fast it was. That's awesome that you are getting it back! I can't wait to see what you run.

I have read many places that the Vic Jr. is the way to go on a 347. That will be one of my next purchases after I get the traction a little more under control. Does anyone here have a used Vic Jr. for sale?

1.59 60 foots sure would be fun! That's almost .4 seconds quicker than me in the first 60 feet!!

I don't really want to grenade the 8" rear just yet so I will be sticking with the smaller tires at least for a little while. I realize it is not optimum but it is what I have.

I have plans to loosen up the front end a little, add a good traction bar, and then probably switch to the Vic Jr. intake.