New Dyno # with H/C/I, need help

[Kurt2002]

I have a 93 AOD GT Convertible, I installed the following:

FTI AFR 165
Crower 15511 Cam
Scorpion RR 1.6
Edelbrock Performer Intake
Accufab 70mm TB
Pro-M 75mm MAF
BBK Shorty Headers
Bassani Catted X-Pipe
Bassani Catback
March UD Pulleys
Holley 255lph Fuel Pump
2800rpm Non Lock Up Converter
Art Carr AOD

I dynoed Stock 182rwhp and 260tq
With new combo I dynoed 229rwhp & 281tq, what the heck!!!!!! My A/F ratio is 12.9 -13.2 across the board, my initial timing is 14 degrees.

The car does not feel fast, I have 3.73 gears and a 2800 rpm stall (actually it stalls at 3400rpm, something not right there) and I can't even break the tires loose from 5 mph roll.

I do have a header gasket on the passenger side burnt and leaking but that should not cost me 20-40 rwhp.

I'm really dissapointed with my car, I was hoping for atleast 250rwhp and 300+ tq. What is wrong with my combo?

My dyno sheet @ 14 degrees timing and A/F readings
http://ml.truckmoxie.com/gallery/kurt93GT/97476.jpg

 

[Badlilstang]

229 is low for sure... you should be around 250-270 with that AOD. I had a freind with a little more work then yours and he made 268rwhp but ran 12.50s.

 

[ponyboy19]

Your combo looks good although you need to get the header fixed before your next dyno. Did you tune it or just dyno it.. If you don't have a chip burnt then I would get it tuned and chipped. factory computer is probably going nuts with all the addition air flow and cam specs. I'm not sure you will get accurate dyno #'s to begin with when your using the non lock up converter so if I were you I would have someone dial it in and then take it to the track and see how it does. You may be surprised.

 

[Kurt2002]

I had it dyno tune and then dyno @ the same place. Would a headers gasket cause problems? I thought it would just be a exhaust leak not cause HP problems?

Also I called Art Carr today and to come to find out the TQ converter stall is 3400rpm @ 260TQ. So since I'm 290TQ it stalling at 3500-3600rpm. This is killing the car on how it feels driving.

 

[Nucking Futs]

The 70mm throttle body might be a little to big. Is your block stock? Was your cam degreed in properly? There are many things that could be wrong. Do you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator?

 

[BYRDPE]

Try moving your timing up to about 16-18 degrees.If you hear detonation you will need to back it down.
Good luck with it.......

 

[Kurt2002]

I had the timing up to 18 degrees and it made 238hp & 291tq without any detonation so I set it to 16 degrees right now. I adjusted the fuel pressure gauge and adjustable fuel pressure, it runs 50-52 with vacuum and 46-48 w/ vacuum off. But the wide band showed 13.0 A/F.

 

[Badlilstang]

I had the timing up to 18 degrees and it made 238hp & 291tq without any detonation so I set it to 16 degrees right now. I adjusted the fuel pressure gauge and adjustable fuel pressure, it runs 50-52 with vacuum and 46-48 w/ vacuum off. But the wide band showed 13.0 A/F.

Wait.. your fuel pressure goes lower when you unplug vacum??? When you remove the vacume line the fuel pressure should jump up.

 

[Kurt2002]

No it lowers when I pull the vacuum off

 

[cardudeusa]

I have always seen pressure go up w/ vacuum unplugged also.

 

[SadbutTrue]

migth want to check compression

 

[Badlilstang]

No it lowers when I pull the vacuum off

Might want to check that.. ive never seen that on either of my two.. Its kinda common since.. when you put the car at WOT and you had a vacum gauge to look at you would see the needle fall to 0.... now at WOT and zero vacum is like unplugging it.. you want your fuel pressure to go up when under that kind of load.

 

[84blkstang]

shouldnt the fuel pressure be between 32-36 that is what i always thought? but i run carbed so i really dont know that much

 

[cardudeusa]

shouldnt the fuel pressure be between 32-36 that is what i always thought? but i run carbed so i really dont know that much

I believe 38-40 is factory

 

[ponyboy19]

shouldnt the fuel pressure be between 32-36 that is what i always thought? but i run carbed so i really dont know that much

A general ruel of thumb that I have always heard is you should keep your fuel pressure between 38-44 vacumn off. if you have to push past that, then it's time for bigger injectors.

Did you by any chance do a plug reading. seems like your F/P is doing some weird stuff and you should need it to be 50-52. I personally ran 30's on a set up like yours but 24's work fine. I would do a plug reading though on fresh plugs after a hard pull, shut it off right there and pull every plug.. make sure they all look good to rule out an issues with a particular cylinder or injector.

 

[91StangLX]

I had it dyno tune and then dyno @ the same place. Would a headers gasket cause problems? I thought it would just be a exhaust leak not cause HP problems?

Also I called Art Carr today and to come to find out the TQ converter stall is 3400rpm @ 260TQ. So since I'm 290TQ it stalling at 3500-3600rpm. This is killing the car on how it feels driving.

I had a hearder leak and it cost me an honest 23 HP. The leak was in the collector where the four pipes meet. So an exhaust leak is going to cost you HP.

 

[Kurt2002]

My leak is at the head and header, i'm going to fix that first. I double checked my reading when I take the vacuum off the fuel pressure drops. Also I included in my first post the dyno sheet with A/F readings.

Man I'm getting to hate modding!!!!