New Dyno # with H/C/I, need help

Kurt2002

New Member

Jul 6, 2002

346

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North Royalton, Ohio

May 16, 2004

#1

• May 16, 2004

• #1

I have a 93 AOD GT Convertible, I installed the following:

FTI AFR 165
Crower 15511 Cam
Scorpion RR 1.6
Edelbrock Performer Intake
Accufab 70mm TB
Pro-M 75mm MAF
BBK Shorty Headers
Bassani Catted X-Pipe
Bassani Catback
March UD Pulleys
Holley 255lph Fuel Pump
2800rpm Non Lock Up Converter
Art Carr AOD

I dynoed Stock 182rwhp and 260tq
With new combo I dynoed 229rwhp & 281tq, what the heck!!!!!! My A/F ratio is 12.9 -13.2 across the board, my initial timing is 14 degrees.

The car does not feel fast, I have 3.73 gears and a 2800 rpm stall (actually it stalls at 3400rpm, something not right there) and I can't even break the tires loose from 5 mph roll.

I do have a header gasket on the passenger side burnt and leaking but that should not cost me 20-40 rwhp.

I'm really dissapointed with my car, I was hoping for atleast 250rwhp and 300+ tq. What is wrong with my combo?

My dyno sheet @ 14 degrees timing and A/F readings
http://ml.truckmoxie.com/gallery/kurt93GT/97476.jpg

 

Badlilstang

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Feb 21, 2001

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Spring , Texas

May 16, 2004

#2

• May 16, 2004

• #2

229 is low for sure... you should be around 250-270 with that AOD. I had a freind with a little more work then yours and he made 268rwhp but ran 12.50s.

 

ponyboy19

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May 24, 2000

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May 16, 2004

#3

• May 16, 2004

• #3

Your combo looks good although you need to get the header fixed before your next dyno. Did you tune it or just dyno it.. If you don't have a chip burnt then I would get it tuned and chipped. factory computer is probably going nuts with all the addition air flow and cam specs. I'm not sure you will get accurate dyno #'s to begin with when your using the non lock up converter so if I were you I would have someone dial it in and then take it to the track and see how it does. You may be surprised.

 

Kurt2002

New Member

Jul 6, 2002

346

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North Royalton, Ohio

May 17, 2004

#4

• May 17, 2004

• #4

I had it dyno tune and then dyno @ the same place. Would a headers gasket cause problems? I thought it would just be a exhaust leak not cause HP problems?

Also I called Art Carr today and to come to find out the TQ converter stall is 3400rpm @ 260TQ. So since I'm 290TQ it stalling at 3500-3600rpm. This is killing the car on how it feels driving.

 

Nucking Futs

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Jan 5, 2002

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Franklin TN

May 17, 2004

#5

• May 17, 2004

• #5

The 70mm throttle body might be a little to big. Is your block stock? Was your cam degreed in properly? There are many things that could be wrong. Do you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator?

 

B

BYRDPE

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Nov 4, 1998

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Memphis,Tn.

May 17, 2004

#6

• May 17, 2004

• #6

Try moving your timing up to about 16-18 degrees.If you hear detonation you will need to back it down.
Good luck with it.......

 

Kurt2002

New Member

Jul 6, 2002

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North Royalton, Ohio

May 17, 2004

#7

• May 17, 2004

• #7

I had the timing up to 18 degrees and it made 238hp & 291tq without any detonation so I set it to 16 degrees right now. I adjusted the fuel pressure gauge and adjustable fuel pressure, it runs 50-52 with vacuum and 46-48 w/ vacuum off. But the wide band showed 13.0 A/F.

 

Badlilstang

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Feb 21, 2001

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Spring , Texas

May 17, 2004

#8

• May 17, 2004

• #8

Kurt2002 said:

I had the timing up to 18 degrees and it made 238hp & 291tq without any detonation so I set it to 16 degrees right now. I adjusted the fuel pressure gauge and adjustable fuel pressure, it runs 50-52 with vacuum and 46-48 w/ vacuum off. But the wide band showed 13.0 A/F.

Click to expand...

Wait.. your fuel pressure goes lower when you unplug vacum??? When you remove the vacume line the fuel pressure should jump up.

 

Kurt2002

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Jul 6, 2002

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North Royalton, Ohio

May 17, 2004

#9

• May 17, 2004

• #9

No it lowers when I pull the vacuum off

 

cardudeusa

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Oct 22, 2002

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Home of the Florida Gators!

May 17, 2004

#10

• May 17, 2004

• #10

I have always seen pressure go up w/ vacuum unplugged also.

 

SadbutTrue

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May 1, 2002

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Granada Hills, California

May 17, 2004

#11

• May 17, 2004

• #11

migth want to check compression

 

Badlilstang

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Feb 21, 2001

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Spring , Texas

May 17, 2004

#12

• May 17, 2004

• #12

Kurt2002 said:

No it lowers when I pull the vacuum off

Click to expand...

Might want to check that.. ive never seen that on either of my two.. Its kinda common since.. when you put the car at WOT and you had a vacum gauge to look at you would see the needle fall to 0.... now at WOT and zero vacum is like unplugging it.. you want your fuel pressure to go up when under that kind of load.

 

84blkstang

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Jun 4, 2003

544

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Springfield MO

May 17, 2004

#13

• May 17, 2004

• #13

shouldnt the fuel pressure be between 32-36 that is what i always thought? but i run carbed so i really dont know that much

 

cardudeusa

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Oct 22, 2002

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May 17, 2004

#14

• May 17, 2004

• #14

84blkstang said:

shouldnt the fuel pressure be between 32-36 that is what i always thought? but i run carbed so i really dont know that much

Click to expand...

I believe 38-40 is factory

 

ponyboy19

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May 24, 2000

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May 18, 2004

#15

• May 18, 2004

• #15

84blkstang said:

shouldnt the fuel pressure be between 32-36 that is what i always thought? but i run carbed so i really dont know that much

Click to expand...

A general ruel of thumb that I have always heard is you should keep your fuel pressure between 38-44 vacumn off. if you have to push past that, then it's time for bigger injectors.

Did you by any chance do a plug reading. seems like your F/P is doing some weird stuff and you should need it to be 50-52. I personally ran 30's on a set up like yours but 24's work fine. I would do a plug reading though on fresh plugs after a hard pull, shut it off right there and pull every plug.. make sure they all look good to rule out an issues with a particular cylinder or injector.

 

9

91StangLX

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Mar 26, 2004

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May 18, 2004

#16

• May 18, 2004

• #16

Kurt2002 said:

I had it dyno tune and then dyno @ the same place. Would a headers gasket cause problems? I thought it would just be a exhaust leak not cause HP problems?

Also I called Art Carr today and to come to find out the TQ converter stall is 3400rpm @ 260TQ. So since I'm 290TQ it stalling at 3500-3600rpm. This is killing the car on how it feels driving.

Click to expand...

I had a hearder leak and it cost me an honest 23 HP. The leak was in the collector where the four pipes meet. So an exhaust leak is going to cost you HP.

 

Kurt2002

New Member

Jul 6, 2002

346

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North Royalton, Ohio

May 18, 2004

#17

• May 18, 2004

• #17

My leak is at the head and header, i'm going to fix that first. I double checked my reading when I take the vacuum off the fuel pressure drops. Also I included in my first post the dyno sheet with A/F readings.

Man I'm getting to hate modding!!!!