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New F-R brake line doesn't fit

  • Thread starter Thread starter 19stang66
  • Start date Start date Sep 10, 2005
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19stang66

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Apr 16, 2003
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#1
  • Sep 10, 2005
  • #1
Well I finally got my new brake lines (bought them from NPD and they were here in 3 days) and I got to installing them. Front went good but when I put the Front to Rear line in, the rear fitting doesn't line up even close to the flexible brake hose. I have it so it's all lined up with the distribution block (none of the lines are connected to the block though). Why is the line soo much longer than it should be? Will I have to cut it and get it flared? Or can I bend it somehow to make it fit? This is the part description and # I ordered from NPD -

BRAKE LINE SET, Rear
65-66 Drum, fact dual exhaust....2265-22 $31.95

Any help is muuuuuch apreciated! Thanks!
 

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65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
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Antelope Valley, SoCal
Sep 10, 2005
#2
  • Sep 10, 2005
  • #2
I'd shorten that line in a heartbeat. I doubt you could bend it to work without it kinking. All you need is a flaring kit and they're usually cheap.
 
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19stang66

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#3
  • Sep 10, 2005
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I've heard they are expensive?? If I can't find one cheap then i'll have my uncle flare it when he aligns the car.
 

reenmachine

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 27, 2004
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Montrose, CA
Sep 11, 2005
#4
  • Sep 11, 2005
  • #4
What did NPD say when you called them and asked about the problem?

Modifying the brake line yourself is ok if you know what you're doing. You can go to the auto parts store and get a flaring tool for 10 bucks, but this isn't the right tool to use. Brake lines need to be double flared and this tool is $100+. This is the only DOT approved way to do a brake line, and it's the safest. Remember, this is your (or someone else's) life you're dealing with here.

Anyway, call NPD and inform them that their product doesn't fit. You paid good money and shouldn't have to spend more to make up for their shortcoming.
 
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mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
Founding Member
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Sep 11, 2005
#5
  • Sep 11, 2005
  • #5
Don't cut; I have bought lines from them and they fit perfectly. First, do you have a factory dual exhaust? If it is an aftermarket, then you got the wrong line. You can make it work with the proper bracket and different flex lines if that is the case. If you do have factory duals, make sure the entire line is not in backwards. I know that sounds dumb, but with all of the bends, it took me quite a while to figure out which end was which.
 

reenmachine

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 27, 2004
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Sep 11, 2005
#6
  • Sep 11, 2005
  • #6
But if you originally had single exhaust and converted to duals, don't use the single exhaust brake line. It is too close to the new pipe and can cook your brake fluid.
 
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19stang66

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#7
  • Sep 11, 2005
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How am I supposed to know if it had factory dual exhaust? I'd think it would if it had a V8 originally. I bought the car from a guy down in Texas in August. I know it's not the original exhaust. It has manifolds not headers if that helps any. The line fits perfectly up until that last bend as it goes upwards. I can follow where the old line was because the PO spray painted the underbody and it's not painted where the old brake lines were. mustangdave-do you remember what brake line you bought from them and what end was which and any other tips you have.
 
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5.0ina66

Member
Jun 6, 2003
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Sep 11, 2005
#8
  • Sep 11, 2005
  • #8
19stang66 said:
How am I supposed to know if it had factory dual exhaust? I'd think it would if it had a V8 originally.
Click to expand...

Nope. Actually this is pretty easy to figure out, as long as your car isn't a GT. Also, there is a specific place that the brackets are welded in for factory dual exh. cars Vs. single exh. cars. (Maybe someone has a pic) I guess it doesn't really matter if it is a factory dual car, just if it is set-up like one or not.

Anyway as far as factory goes, if it's a C-code, it didn't have dual exhaust; if it's an A-code, it only had duals if it was a GT, and all K-codes had duals. From what I've seen, most dealer installed dual exh. weren't setup like the factory ones. The factory duals setup is pretty easy to duplicate anyway.
HTH
--Kyle
 
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19stang66

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#9
  • Sep 11, 2005
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So mine must have been single exhaust as it's a C code. Is that why the line is longer than I need it to be? I called NPD today and they said when you order rear brake lines and the catalogs asks, "drum or disk," it is talking about the front brakes and not the rear. I did not know that and I ordered the front to rear line thinking it was asking what type of rear brakes I have which are drums. They will ship me different ones if I want to exchange or I can have my uncle cut and flare it to the right length.
 

reenmachine

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 27, 2004
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Montrose, CA
Sep 11, 2005
#10
  • Sep 11, 2005
  • #10
19stang66 said:
So mine must have been single exhaust as it's a C code. Is that why the line is longer than I need it to be? I called NPD today and they said when you order rear brake lines and the catalogs asks, "drum or disk," it is talking about the front brakes and not the rear. I did not know that and I ordered the front to rear line thinking it was asking what type of rear brakes I have which are drums. They will ship me different ones if I want to exchange or I can have my uncle cut and flare it to the right length.
Click to expand...
Yes, but the point is that if you either get a single exhaust line or have your uncle modify the one you have, your flex line can be dangerously close to the exhaust pipe, depending on how your exhaust is run. That's why the flex line coupling point is so much higher and out of the way on a factory dual exhaust car. Unfortunately, it is a fairly common occurance for someone to convert their 65-66 to dual exhaust, not know to change the brake lines, melt through the flex hose, and have rear brake failure. Ford changed the lines in 67 to all be the same for this reason.
 
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19stang66

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#11
  • Sep 11, 2005
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So how do I solve this problem of having the flex line too close?? I just went out and looked at it and I see what you mean. Thanks reen
 
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mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
Founding Member
Feb 26, 2002
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Sep 11, 2005
#12
  • Sep 11, 2005
  • #12
You have a couple of choices. NPD sells the dual exhaust bracket that would have to be welded to the floor. Then you would have to buy the correct flex hose. Option two would be to swap your hard line at NPD for the single exhaust line and if your exhaust is too close see if it can be routed differently.
 
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19stang66

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Sep 11, 2005
#13
  • Sep 11, 2005
  • #13
I see the dual exhaust braket in the catalog but I don't see what new flexible brake line I would need? Is the hose longer than the one I have now? Where on the floor does the braket mount to?
 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
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Sep 12, 2005
#14
  • Sep 12, 2005
  • #14
Here is a pic if it helps:



The brake lines are from:

http://www.mustangsplus.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MPFMP&Product_Code=05242

 
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19stang66

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Sep 12, 2005
#15
  • Sep 12, 2005
  • #15
Can I find lines a little cheaper than that? The only one I need is the rear flex hose. Is that a bracket you welded in? It's hard to tell where that bracket is. I'm thinkin that is the left (drivers side) shock, am i right? I hope to figure it out before tuesday night as I'm bringing her out to my uncles to have it aligned and the ignition problem fixed and probably doin the brakes.
 
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19stang66

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#16
  • Sep 12, 2005
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I found this one http://www.mustangsplus.com/Merchan...PFMP&Product_Code=02320&Category_Code=hos-rub Would that work better than a regular one?
 
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19stang66

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#17
  • Sep 12, 2005
  • #17
Someone please answer soon because I'm bringing my car to my unlces Tuesday night to have some work done on her. Thanks!
 
M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
Founding Member
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Sep 13, 2005
#18
  • Sep 13, 2005
  • #18
Check Autozone and Advance Auto's web sites for the hose if you are going to buy the bracket.
 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
1,149
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West Texas
Sep 13, 2005
#19
  • Sep 13, 2005
  • #19
No, the bracket is not welded in. It is from the factory like that on GT's. It is located pretty close to where your picture shows your line ending up. 3/16"

Maybe you could cut off the old bracket (or fab a new one) and weld it up higher.

You would have to get the longer GT hose:



but you wouldn't have to remove and return your F-R line (wait another week)Also you would be safely away from the dual exhaust.
 
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19stang66

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Sep 13, 2005
#20
  • Sep 13, 2005
  • #20
What is that bracket that is attached to the junction block?
 
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