New GT Oil: Conventional or Synthetic

[bonzomustang]

I've got a 2007GT with about 1700miles on it. I've been 'babying' it waiting for about 2k miles before really hammering on it too hard.

2 x questions:

1. When should I change out this first batch of factory Ford oil?

2. Should I go with conventional or synthetic? Anybody have good luck with any particular brands?

thanks much.

 

[fosman77]

Syntec

I changed to Castrol Syntec 5-20 at 1000 miles with a K&N Filter, will change at 5000 miles and every 5000 after, unless oil starts to look dirty before then.

 

[McQueens Dream]

ours get changed at our dealership, and they use a conventional oil, but use an oil additive, doing it like that lets you go 5000 miles between oil changes, and you don't have the high cost of synthetic oil. just had ours changed 300 miles ago, we had 8300 miles on the car, and the oil still looked brand new.

on another note, stop babying the car, now is the time to run the crap out of it, that way the computer learns your driving habits, and you won't have a dog of a car later down the road. you will probably get comments on that, but trust me, it has worked on EVERY vehicle i have bought!

 

[anthony05gt]

Your car came with a synthetic blend. I suggest going to full synthetic and change it every 5k.

 

[metroplex]

I just changed my oil at 1000 miles. I went to Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20, which is a Group III "synthetic" that supposedly contains some Group V PAO additives.

I varied the engine RPMs and vehicle speeds during this 1000 mile break-in period. I've nailed the limiter at 6250 RPM a few times but I usually just granny shift.

 

[95Nelson]

Our dealer offers $9.95 oil changes for life and uses the same synthetic blend that came in the car. I can't do it myself for less so I take it back to them every 3k miles.

As far as the break in is concerned, DO NOT BABY IT. To really seat the rings in you should put the engine under a heavy load (like 5th gear from 30-60 mph at wot, then coast back down to 30 mph) for 10-15 times when you first get it. Then don't drive at a steady/constant rpm (like setting the cruise control on the hwy) for the first 500 miles. After that, drive it like you plan to drive it. BTW, I had the oil changed the first time at about 500 miles.

Now I'm sure there will be some out there who will say the break in I suggested is "old school" and that new engines don't need to have the rings seated in that manner. The debates can begin, however I don't think anyone would disagree that even if this "old school" method doesn't help, it doesn't hurt either.

Enjoy your new 'stang and welcome to the site!!!

 

[anthony05gt]

I run 'em hard right out of the box.

 

[05xgt]

Call me crazy but I use 10w40 Royal Purlle w/Luas synthetic additive. Change every 6k miles. Oil comes out clean as it did when I put it in. BTW I also use the frpp filter. No oil pressure issues and live in severe service state. Hot, and Humid 7 mos out of the year. Babying went out the window right at 500 miles. Drive it like the thurough bred that it is.

 

[SigmaPride]

Since this is an oil thread I thought I'd throw in something regarding the 5w20 vs 5w30 debate. Like Ford...we all know that Honda requires 5w20 in most of their cars...accords, civics, odyssey, etc. However, the Civic SI requires 5w30...NOT 5w20. Is the SI made with greater tolerances and doesn't need the thinner oil? No...it is high performance and revs to 8k RPM and greater which I believe is why the slightly heavier 30 is needed at high RPM. Just thought this was interesting for those debating 20 vs 30 and all the talk of smaller tolerances in the engines.

 

[CBus 06 GT]

Our dealer offers $9.95 oil changes for life and uses the same synthetic blend that came in the car. I can't do it myself for less so I take it back to them every 3k miles.

As far as the break in is concerned, DO NOT BABY IT. To really seat the rings in you should put the engine under a heavy load (like 5th gear from 30-60 mph at wot, then coast back down to 30 mph) for 10-15 times when you first get it. Then don't drive at a steady/constant rpm (like setting the cruise control on the hwy) for the first 500 miles. After that, drive it like you plan to drive it. BTW, I had the oil changed the first time at about 500 miles.

Now I'm sure there will be some out there who will say the break in I suggested is "old school" and that new engines don't need to have the rings seated in that manner. The debates can begin, however I don't think anyone would disagree that even if this "old school" method doesn't help, it doesn't hurt either.

Enjoy your new 'stang and welcome to the site!!!

Good to see someone else understands the need to seat the rings. The 1 and only time I followed the manufacturer's break in procedures on a new vehicle (streetbike back before I had read up on different break in procedures on the net) led to glazed cylinders and an oil eating motor. On my 'Stang, I drove her hard from day one.

PS, I'm using the factory Motorcraft 5W-20 semi-synthetic in my baby.

 

[Uncle Meat]

Great debate on oil and oil types is currently on-going in the 4.6 forums. What's being discussed in there applies to the newer "Stangs too. Might want to read up on it. Ford switched recommendations from 5w30 to 5w20 a few years back SOLEY to increase their overall C.A.F.E. ratings.

http://gt500.drive9.com/~snforums/showthread.php?t=549228

and

http://gt500.drive9.com/~snforums/showthread.php?t=709365

U.M.

 

[metroplex]

Just FYI, the new engines have a 5 year / 60k mile powertrain warranty. So it is unlikely the engine will wear out in 5 years by using 5W-20.

 

[JTGrant]

Use a good synthetic and change it every 5k. Check out this site. www.bobistheoilguy.com There is so much information about oil on that site. I personally don't use 5w20 (even though it does give great used oil analysis) but I do use a 5w30 synthetic. Pennzoil Platinum has a really good rep on that site and it returns very good UOAs. To the myth crowd that believes that "Pennzoil will sludge your engine" your wrong. You can't go wrong with any API oil.

 

[RKNMACH]

So what you are saying is that you could Royal Purple 5-30 w/o any problems instead of 5-20.

 

[YardSpecial]

So what you are saying is that you could Royal Purple 5-30 w/o any problems instead of 5-20.

RP is know to shear/break down to soon in fords............

 

[Mark25]

Use the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend that it came with from the factory. My first oil and filter change was made at 1,600 miles, then at 3,000 and now every 3,000 - 3,500miles.

 

[myfirstii]

Can you explain why Royal Purple shears/breakdowns too soon in Fords?? And where I can read up on this.
Pat

 

[homebrewer]

I bought the maintenance plan from ford, so I've got my oil changes and other issues paid for, for the next three years. If the factory is happy with it, I'm happy with it. I doubt Ford will pay to put sub-par oil into their engines, especially if their warranty depends on it.....

That being said, I did opt to pay to have the dealer change my oil changed after 1000 miles. Just felt like something I should do... Won't hurt anything in my mind.

As far as the viscosity debate is concerned, I'd just run what is recommended. In the long run, you probably won't notice a difference between 20 or 30 weight, it is easier just to run the recommended oil. Full or semi-synthetic, run what is recommended. Hell, my friend has a new BMW M3, and it has a sticker under the hood that says the oil should be 10W- 60! I have NEVER seen oil like that fr sale anywhere. It's odd to think that his motor oil is almost as thick as our rear diff's at times. I can't imagine why an engine would ever need a 60 weight oil, but that's what they call for. The lesson here, is just to run what is recommended.... I may be an engineer, but I wasn't involved in the development of this motor and how it reacts..... better to leave the guessing to the experts.