Fox New Guy Need Help With Value Of Car

jaychani

Member
Dec 10, 2016
30
2
8
Hey guys first off I want to introduce myself. My name is Ed and i'm from Oklahoma. I recently acquired this mustang as a form of payment for services rendered. I'm trying to find info on it and honestly find out what its worth.

Here's what I have so far. 1993 calypso green lx hatchback with a build date of 10/92. Paint is original and only body damage is the passenger fender ( pictured). The engine was completely resealed headgaskets, intake manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets etc. Its missing an engine harness, ecu, water pump pulley and a few other small things to run. Its a manual car and rust free except for the damage on the fender. I've gone over it pretty well and it appears to never have been wrecked. Any help or advice would be much appreciated!!!

ON TO THE GOOD STUFF!!!!
 

Attachments

  • image1.JPG
    image1.JPG
    169 KB · Views: 264
  • image2.JPG
    image2.JPG
    157 KB · Views: 255
  • image3.JPG
    image3.JPG
    174 KB · Views: 244
  • image4.JPG
    image4.JPG
    124.4 KB · Views: 257
  • image5.JPG
    image5.JPG
    139.2 KB · Views: 253
  • image6.JPG
    image6.JPG
    139.6 KB · Views: 222
  • image7.JPG
    image7.JPG
    158.1 KB · Views: 261
  • Sponsors (?)


Hey Ed. The value of the car is not that high because of the missing ecu, harness, and various other parts. Without the car running it will be assumed that the motor and trans don't work.

I'd have to price it at about $800 - $1000. That's if those totes are full of good interior parts and most of what's missing.

5 speed or auto ?

Do you have good title ?
 
Look at the title. Florida titles will show if it is a v8 or 4cyl that will help when putting it back together. Also has an effect on value, although a basket case is a crap shoot.
Straight, rust free foxs are getting hard to find and worth the effort to fix and drive, just don't expect to fix and flip for much of a profit.
JMO
Could be a good start for a nice car
 
Straight frame with no structural rot is a 1000 dollar car all day.
If you aren't planning on keeping the car, pull the engine/transmission and part it out. Ho engine and t5 trans is another 800-1000 depending on the market where you are. Short answer unless you plan on putting it back into running condition you have about 2k in parts, maybe 1500 if you are looking to sell fast.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Hey guys I just remembered I posted on here my apologies. Thanks for The info.

I've sourced just about everything I need to start it up but haven't had the time and it's been in low teens temps wise here. I'm having problems with the harness.
I have a bunch of plugs and nothing to plug them into. Cranks but won't fire. Haven't had a chance to check for the big 3 yet since it's been cold.

I bought it to build not to flip just want to know if what I paid (rather not disclose) was fair or not.

No rust anywhere that I can see except for the passenger fender which has a nasty crease type thing in it and it's rusting there. I have sourced a non damaged rust free fender that I will be having paint matched.
 
AlsoI have a clean and clear title. Kansas is where I picked it up from. Guy had it sitting inside his garage. I can't wait for it to warm up a bit so I can start it up and go do a big a** burnout!!!


It is a 5 speed car.
 
Some pics of the plugs your talking about.
There are some wire diagrams around here someplace, tmoss is one I've seen tossed around, I have a ford repair manuel, look up motorbooks for yours, get one that matches your year as some stuff is year specific.
 
It almost seems like I'm missing a harness at the front of the engine bay by the core support.
Next to last pic is some sort of cable that's been cut coming out of the firewall driver side corner.
Cut plug that's pictured is in the same general location 4th pic.

Also 3rd to last looks like some sort of vacuum line by on the intake manifold.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0021.JPG
    IMG_0021.JPG
    774.6 KB · Views: 223
  • IMG_0026.JPG
    IMG_0026.JPG
    646.1 KB · Views: 216
  • IMG_0027.JPG
    IMG_0027.JPG
    569 KB · Views: 245
  • IMG_0028.JPG
    IMG_0028.JPG
    669.9 KB · Views: 214
  • IMG_0031.JPG
    IMG_0031.JPG
    551.3 KB · Views: 221
  • IMG_0029.JPG
    IMG_0029.JPG
    605.6 KB · Views: 220
  • IMG_0023.JPG
    IMG_0023.JPG
    864.7 KB · Views: 230
I gonna go out on a limb here and say you got a 4cyl to v8 swap
Look at the title, most show engine size, also run the vin, there are decoders online to help, if you can't find out pm me and I'll see what I can find.
Good looking car though, well worth the effort to make it right.
3d to last pic is an aftermarket temp sending unit, that red/white stipe wire go's to the temp gauge in the stock dash.
Show a pick of the instrument panel, please
 
The black squeeze connector on drivers side is the computer ground...it should be on the inner fender between the starter solenoid and the battery. It has to be connected in order for the car to start. That wire black/orange goes to a Y that connects it and a wire from ground side of battery to the inner fender.

The cut cable was for the cruise control ( not needed }

Like karthief stated...the red/white wire went to the temperature sender for the dash'

The small black connector coming off the harness on the intake is for the vapor canister solenoid ( not needed )

The plugged hard black plastic line running along the passenger side inner fender is the vapor line that went to the carbon canister ( not needed )

I don't know what the white plug by the MAF sensor goes to.

Looks like they cut the end of the harness off that would've run to that brown harness..... I'm not sure what that is either.

They may have tried to use an older harness to swap a v8 into that body. Does the title say v8 on it ?
 
Doesn't say on the title whether it's 4 or 8 cyl. I bought the harness used from someone off one the of mustang Facebook groups. Apparently he works at a reputable shop but the harness is all cut up and the ecu I got from him is missing the sticker in the back. Think I'm going to ask to return it and find a different harness that isn't all cut up.
I'll try to decode the vin and if I can't figure it out I'll pm you karthief. Thanks for the offer as well.

From what I can tell it needed to be a 92.5-93 v8 engine harness. That's what this was supposed to be That I purchased.
 
Last edited:
According to the vin decoder it was a 4cyl car swapped to a v8.
Says it has a 3:45 rear end. That would be the 7.5"?

I really just want to get it running but not quite sure what's going on. I spent 10+ years working on high hp imports so this is a big change for me. To say I'm out of my comfort zone is an understatement.
 
Last edited:
Ya, no problem, I hate hacked up crap, I have an engine harness but it's for a 91, you may want to try for a harness same year as the car, some crap is year and/or trans specific
Try to get your money back for that hacked up crap.
 
Ya, no problem, I hate hacked up crap, I have an engine harness but it's for a 91, you may want to try for a harness same year as the car, some crap is year and/or trans specific
Try to get your money back for that hacked up crap.

Ya I just messaged him asking to send it all back.
It has to be a 92.5-93 harness due to location of the fuel pump relay from what I've read and what the guy told me I bought it from. Because of that people seem to think they can rake you over the coals for the harness and sell you cut up crap. This is actually the second engine harness I've bought and going to end up sending back.
 
The guy I bought it from told me all that was done. Just needed engine harness maf and computer which I have now. Cranks over but won't fire.

Would it do that if the other stuff cluster etc wasn't correct? Also I'm sure the cut missing plugs have something to do with it. I have another harness not sure if I posted pics or not.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0032.JPG
    IMG_0032.JPG
    1.6 MB · Views: 223