Hey there guys I am new but OLD. I have just got back into a Mustang. I bought a 1993 Mustang GT it's got good bones but will need love, been out of this end Mustangs were more into Mod motors. But now going backward wanting to build a 302 with decent power what's the best way to go? I will street and strip it and of course, drive it to the Chevrolet Dealership I work at.
Progress Thread New Guy Smith Station Alabama
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I like this guy!!!!!
Welcome to
OH......almost forgot......post up a pic or two of the pony..
85GTStangGuy
5 Year Member
Save yourself some time and trouble....sounds like you're gonna have enough on your hands with the rest of the car ("good bones").
blueprintengines.com
Ford Small Block Compatible 302 c.i. Engine - 361 Horsepower - Deluxe Dressed - Rear Sump - Fuel Injected
BluePrint Engines Ford small block compatible 302 c.i. crate engine - 361 HP - Deluxe dressed - Rear sump - Fuel injected. Includes 30 month/ 50,000 mile warranty and BluePrint Dyno Promise. Part #: BP302RCTFD
blueprintengines.com
The vehicle has 78,000 original miles but has been sitting for the last 7 to 10 years, based on its exterior and interior condition. I need some expertise on the best way to restore it. Surprisingly, there is no rot; however, there is some surface rust, and the front fog lights have rusted out. Fortunately, there are no dents or dings. I purchased the vehicle from a lady whose brother passed away. He was the original owner and had plans to restore it. I want to proceed with the restoration while also ensuring that the engine is in excellent condition.
So looking for the best option for motor, trans and inside
So looking for the best option for motor, trans and inside
I like this guy!!!!!
Welcome to
OH......almost forgot......post up a pic or two of the pony..
gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
BOUGHT IT FOR 3K --I HAVE A DECENT BUDGET I EXPECT 2K FOR INSIDE 4K BODY AND PAINT THATS DOING IT IN A BOOTH MYSELF ABD DRIVE TRAIN 6-8 BRAKES AND TIRES 2K
I would say that is a reasonable estimate for those things.
I am going to move this thread into Fox section and put a [Progress Thread] tag on it.
Looking forward to seeing your build!
If it were me I would get the mechanical all sorted out first. Get the motor running first then address the brakes so that the car runs and drives. Past that it depends on if you want the interior done first or the paint.
It drives i hooked a battery to it and it fired off brakes were weird-
Just throwing this out there.
If it runs do a compression test and post up the results. If the numbers are low then do a leak down test as it may be the heads.
If the compression numbers are good the I would drop the pan and replace the oil pump drive shaft, oil pump, and oil pump pickup tube. From there I would either put a TFS kit on it (heeds, upper, lower and cam) or call Ed Curtis and have him spec it all out. Ditch the stock radiator and get a good two row aluminum unit. Your choice on the stock mechanical fan (if you keep it install a new fan clutch) or install an electric fan and whether or not you think the stock water pump is in good shape. You will need at minimum a 65 or 70mm throttle body and I would upgrade the MAF to a 75mm calibrated for some 30 lb/hr injectors. 24's might work but 30's would keep the duty cycle down low and the idle will be better. Upgrade the stock fuel pump to a 190 lpr and change the fuel filter.
I would also suggest you at a minimum go with 1-5/8" shorty headers, 2-1/2" H or X pipe, and your flavor of 2-1/2" cat back. That motor will need to breath.
No you should not need a tune for the car to run pretty well. Will a tune help? It won't hurt but it should not be necessary.
More than one way to upgrade the motor but if the stock short block is in good shape then no reason not to use it. You will make around 300 rwhp which is all kinds of fun in these cars.
As for the brakes just move up the SN95 stuff and go here:
Mustang5L5 did a great job getting all the info in that jewel of a thread.
If it runs do a compression test and post up the results. If the numbers are low then do a leak down test as it may be the heads.
If the compression numbers are good the I would drop the pan and replace the oil pump drive shaft, oil pump, and oil pump pickup tube. From there I would either put a TFS kit on it (heeds, upper, lower and cam) or call Ed Curtis and have him spec it all out. Ditch the stock radiator and get a good two row aluminum unit. Your choice on the stock mechanical fan (if you keep it install a new fan clutch) or install an electric fan and whether or not you think the stock water pump is in good shape. You will need at minimum a 65 or 70mm throttle body and I would upgrade the MAF to a 75mm calibrated for some 30 lb/hr injectors. 24's might work but 30's would keep the duty cycle down low and the idle will be better. Upgrade the stock fuel pump to a 190 lpr and change the fuel filter.
I would also suggest you at a minimum go with 1-5/8" shorty headers, 2-1/2" H or X pipe, and your flavor of 2-1/2" cat back. That motor will need to breath.
No you should not need a tune for the car to run pretty well. Will a tune help? It won't hurt but it should not be necessary.
More than one way to upgrade the motor but if the stock short block is in good shape then no reason not to use it. You will make around 300 rwhp which is all kinds of fun in these cars.
As for the brakes just move up the SN95 stuff and go here:
Mustang5L5 did a great job getting all the info in that jewel of a thread.
The Dealership I work for he is a great owner he lets me work on it up here. He also drag races GM products and I am over parts and service. I drive a raptor and he gives me some 
about it jokingly but honestly, he is a great person.
about it jokingly but honestly, he is a great person.So how do i get a hold of CurtisJust throwing this out there.
If it runs do a compression test and post up the results. If the numbers are low then do a leak down test as it may be the heads.
If the compression numbers are good the I would drop the pan and replace the oil pump drive shaft, oil pump, and oil pump pickup tube. From there I would either put a TFS kit on it (heeds, upper, lower and cam) or call Ed Curtis and have him spec it all out. Ditch the stock radiator and get a good two row aluminum unit. Your choice on the stock mechanical fan (if you keep it install a new fan clutch) or install an electric fan and whether or not you think the stock water pump is in good shape. You will need at minimum a 65 or 70mm throttle body and I would upgrade the MAF to a 75mm calibrated for some 30 lb/hr injectors. 24's might work but 30's would keep the duty cycle down low and the idle will be better. Upgrade the stock fuel pump to a 190 lpr and change the fuel filter.
I would also suggest you at a minimum go with 1-5/8" shorty headers, 2-1/2" H or X pipe, and your flavor of 2-1/2" cat back. That motor will need to breath.
No you should not need a tune for the car to run pretty well. Will a tune help? It won't hurt but it should not be necessary.
More than one way to upgrade the motor but if the stock short block is in good shape then no reason not to use it. You will make around 300 rwhp which is all kinds of fun in these cars.
As for the brakes just move up the SN95 stuff and go here:
Mustang5L5 did a great job getting all the info in that jewel of a thread.
So i like the look of Cobra Intake 1993 would you recommend that ?The Dealership I work for he is a great owner he lets me work on it up here. He also drag races GM products and I am over parts and service. I drive a raptor and he gives me some
So how do i get a hold of Curtis
- Mar 2, 2015
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That car looks like a decent start. Looks completely stock under the hood. The cobra intakes are ok but the gt40 tubular intake is even better. A ported explorer intake will do better than both of them though. Personally, I like holley systemax intakes but they cost. 300 - 350hp is fun in these cars. With more than that you may have to check your pants, every once in a while, for brown marks.
One of the best mods I ever did was going to newer sn95 brakes. Gets you 5 lug for more wheel selection and way more braking power. You will want to keep fox length rear axles so you can get a nice offset tire in the back. The sn95 rear calipers and brackets will fit the fox rear end by flipping the brackets side to side and getting fox length 5 lug axles for disc brakes.
Several people here have had great results from the Tricklow top end kit ( TFS kit mentioned already ).
Ed curtis is at Flowtech Induction.com
flowtechinduction.com
One of the best mods I ever did was going to newer sn95 brakes. Gets you 5 lug for more wheel selection and way more braking power. You will want to keep fox length rear axles so you can get a nice offset tire in the back. The sn95 rear calipers and brackets will fit the fox rear end by flipping the brackets side to side and getting fox length 5 lug axles for disc brakes.
Several people here have had great results from the Tricklow top end kit ( TFS kit mentioned already ).
Ed curtis is at Flowtech Induction.com
FTI "GT40-KR1" Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
FTI GT40-KR1 Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
flowtechinduction.com
I had a 2013 GT500 with 742 hp so I got married like a fool and thought I was getting a Porsche wife yet got a KIA sorento with a bad motor LOL. I did this one for me its something I am going to hold on to and I want it to be able to run in the 12"s in the quarter mile. The vehicle is bone stock it has the air box. So if i go b303 holley systemax and what heads?That car looks like a decent start. Looks completely stock under the hood. The cobra intakes are ok but the gt40 tubular intake is even better. A ported explorer intake will do better than both of them though. Personally, I like holley systemax intakes but they cost. 300 - 350hp is fun in these cars. With more than that you may have to check your pants, every once in a while, for brown marks.
One of the best mods I ever did was going to newer sn95 brakes. Gets you 5 lug for more wheel selection and way more braking power. You will want to keep fox length rear axles so you can get a nice offset tire in the back. The sn95 rear calipers and brackets will fit the fox rear end by flipping the brackets side to side and getting fox length 5 lug axles for disc brakes.
Several people here have had great results from the Tricklow top end kit ( TFS kit mentioned already ).
Ed curtis is at Flowtech Induction.com
FTI "GT40-KR1" Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
FTI GT40-KR1 Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
Don't forget about the suspension, skip out on cheap parts, just get good name brands like Maximum Motorsports (MM). You'll want new shocks/struts at a minimum and some good Caster/Camber plates to get the alignment right if you don't stick with the stock springs/ride height. very likely you'll need new control arm bushings if they are the original, I put poly bushings in my front control arms and get some MM rear lower control arms and if you keep the stock 4 link rear make sure you keep rubber bushings in the uppers or go with heim joints (more NVH) to avoid binding.
As for steering, the stock fox steering feels loose and over "boosted" especially compared to modern cars. A good upgrade for that is the 03/04 Cobra rack, which you should be able to find a reman unit from Rock Auto, part number is Cardone 22-2000 and you'll need the MM Hybrid Steering shaft (link below) as well as replacing the inner tie rods with Fox size (1979-1993) to make it work.
As for steering, the stock fox steering feels loose and over "boosted" especially compared to modern cars. A good upgrade for that is the 03/04 Cobra rack, which you should be able to find a reman unit from Rock Auto, part number is Cardone 22-2000 and you'll need the MM Hybrid Steering shaft (link below) as well as replacing the inner tie rods with Fox size (1979-1993) to make it work.
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