New here & need help with idle badly!

Crimson

New Member
Feb 5, 2004
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Hey guys, so this is my first post here. :nice:

Well here's my problem. When my car gets warmed up, my car starts to idle high, around 1,100rpm. The idle also shoots up a couple hundred RPM when I push in the clutch to shift gears - like if I'm in 2nd at 3,000 rpm, take my foot off the gas and press in on the clutch, my rpm's will jump to 3,200, then sloooowly creep down 1,100 rpm. To sum up, the idle shoots up, and hangs badly. :rolleyes:

In the morning for the first Five-Seven minutes of driving I don't have this problem at all. It idles @ 650ish, the rpm's don't shoot up and it doesn't hang at all.

I've also noticed when my electric cooling fan comes on, my idle shoots up 300 rpm while it's running. Is this normal?

I've tried a friends 76mm C&L MAF (resetting the battery of course, and cleaned the sensor itself), changed the follow parts, not all related to this problem - TFI module, ACT sensor, ECT sensor, Distributor (new MSD), I've also tried setting the idle in just about every way possible. New plugs, wires & rotor.
The IAC isn't that old since my FMS 65MM throttle body came with it, and a new TPS as well.

The ONLY way I can get around this problem is if I unplug my Idle Air Sensor.
With this unplugged all my problems go away, but I get a new series of problems such as in the morning it will stall if I don't sit there a good 10-15 minutes letting it warm up. Sitting in the driveway, if I jerk the wheel it'll stall as the computer doesn't know to suck in more air to compensate for the extra power... or at least that's my way of looking at it.

Do you guys think my IAC is bad? I tried my stock one and have the exact same problems.

ANY help at all would be great. :banana:
 
Try this....I saved this for future use..I have yet to need it, but hey, It may help you out...sound like you have all new stuff...maybe the idle needs to be reset??? For what its worth.....

Setting the idle, properly
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This FAQ may have been one of the victims of the tragic spamming incident, so it is reposted, here . . . .

Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough airbleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment.

The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using an 0.010" feeler guage, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of locktite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment.

Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675.

Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone rtv on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.
 
Thanks for the info, Rio. I've tried several variations of that same procedure, but I will try it just like that in the morning. We shall see!
Any other suggestions out there?
 
Well I did what you posted above Rio and still have the same issues. I thought it was a vacuum leak early on and searched all over, raplacing most of the main lines coming off the intake. I hear no hissing so I don't think I have a leak.

I'm tempted to go by pep boys and get a new sensor just so I can cross it off the list. If it does end up being the IAC well then damn you FMS! :D
 
Crimson said:
Well I did what you posted above Rio and still have the same issues. I thought it was a vacuum leak early on and searched all over, raplacing most of the main lines coming off the intake. I hear no hissing so I don't think I have a leak.

I'm tempted to go by pep boys and get a new sensor just so I can cross it off the list. If it does end up being the IAC well then damn you FMS! :D

might be the iac or the tps or the egr. hell pull codes on the cpu. and yes damn fms!!!
 
I just swapped over to a Fox set-up...had the same freaking thing...idles at 3000...W.T.F.???? i had the IAC on backwards...it was the only thing i could think of...swapped it around...Ahhhhh, sysyems normal...
The IAC WAS off the TB when i got it..i had no idea, so i put it where i liked it....NOT...

Just picked up my MSD pro-billet the other day...sweet pc aint it....