new to your forums but I just got this car the other day. when I got the car it was spitting and sputtering... put about $20 worth of gas in it thinking it may be about to run out... nope still sputters... start checking stuff and notice the distributor cap easily lifts off the base that attaches to the distributor even with the clips holding it down. further inspection reveals a crack so I replace it. sputtering dissapears almost completely. my brother suggest dumping this stuff called "seafoam" into the tank... says it will clean the injectors etc. well another trip up the road means even more spitting and sputtering now. so I go top off the tank to try to dilute that crap in there. still does it. drive to work today and it's runnin like crap the entire time. idleing it stumbles and bucks and sometimes shuts off... get on the gas hard and take off and it spark knocks, and pings but takes off with power... let off of the gas and it starts stumbling again.... keep the rpms up and she sputters but drives at around 50 mph if you stay in 4th... go to 5th and let the rpms drop and the stumbling and sputtering starts back up... get to 70 and it smooths out somewhat... soo.... did I mess up the o2 sensor? will that being bad cause this? any help is appreciated.
new here... need help
- Thread starter kingcobracustom
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vp5.0
New Member
Yup I had all those bull**** problems recently. A tune up is a possibility, also the car could be taking in unmetered air. Could be a gasket leak, but I highly doubt it. DEFINITELY clean your MAF.just take the whole setup right off the air intake, spray the inside with some MAF cleaner and let it air dry
Hopefully some of this mightve helped. Good luck! And post pics of the car!!!!
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Hopefully some of this mightve helped. Good luck! And post pics of the car!!!!
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94-302-vert
Active Member
like everyone else said a good tune-up is in order...
My car was the same when I bought it, still had the factory plugs in it (123k miles)... the gap had opened to ~0.130 on all of them.... changed wires, cap, rotor, plugs, and coil and it ran like a top after... cleaned the MAF and it got even better. Just note that the MAF takes a tamper resistant torx bit (tip of the bit has a hole in it). othe rthan than just a lot of common sense will fix this puppy right up...
BTW, that is a good looking car....
My car was the same when I bought it, still had the factory plugs in it (123k miles)... the gap had opened to ~0.130 on all of them.... changed wires, cap, rotor, plugs, and coil and it ran like a top after... cleaned the MAF and it got even better. Just note that the MAF takes a tamper resistant torx bit (tip of the bit has a hole in it). othe rthan than just a lot of common sense will fix this puppy right up...
BTW, that is a good looking car....
rj95svt
Member
Nice looking car!!
The box sounds like a mac pro chamber. It's just a variation of the H, and X pipes. After seeing all your cars mods it's possible that your having some troubles that only a tune will solve if the car hasn't had any custom tuning done. What brand of maf and what size injectors do you have?
The box sounds like a mac pro chamber. It's just a variation of the H, and X pipes. After seeing all your cars mods it's possible that your having some troubles that only a tune will solve if the car hasn't had any custom tuning done. What brand of maf and what size injectors do you have?
Zero Signal
Active Member
Seafoam goes in the tank now? I though it was injected into the intake 
It can't hurt but I doubt it will do diddly for performance. Your problems aren't mechanical (unless your distributor is shifted) and it's 99% not from carbon buildup. Your issues are electrical/fuel.
It sounds to me like bad fuel pressure (either pump or regulator) or dirty maf or bad spark (check wires/plugs/gap/timing). If those aren't it, then I would check the power distribution bolt by the fuses for corrosion and the engine grounds.
It can't hurt but I doubt it will do diddly for performance. Your problems aren't mechanical (unless your distributor is shifted) and it's 99% not from carbon buildup. Your issues are electrical/fuel.It sounds to me like bad fuel pressure (either pump or regulator) or dirty maf or bad spark (check wires/plugs/gap/timing). If those aren't it, then I would check the power distribution bolt by the fuses for corrosion and the engine grounds.
yea thats what I'm thinking... I'll start with new plugs ( the wires are fairly new 9mm ford motorsport I don't believe they are bad) and a new dist cap and rotor, fuel filter and spray out the MAF... if thats not it then I'll replace the o2 sensors... those suckers are pricey. thanks for all the help guys
ok... I don't have a timing light but I tinkered with the timing while listening by ear and now it runs 100% better... no more spitting and sputtering but it doesn't seem to have as much power as it did... the distributor was turned too far clockwise (advanced?) so I turned it counterclockwise til it sounded right and ran it up the road... much better... but not as powerful. also I went to buy some new plugs for it... told them 94 mustang gt... took the plugs home... pulled one of mine and it turns out the threaded part on mine are twice as long as the ones that are supposed to be in there. any idea why? I took one of my old ones up there and got the right ones but are mine different because of the heads? forgive my limited mustang knowledge.
do you know if it was ever tuned? you can see if it has a chip by pulling the passenger side kick molding, the computer is right behind that. see if there is anything plugged into the back. do you know what size injectors they are? what color are the tops?
EDIT: removed plug recommendation.
EDIT: removed plug recommendation.
rj95svt
Member
Cast iron GT40's take autolite 764's which is different than the stock style E7 heads. The threaded part of the plug is really short on them. I would not run the longer style plugs in GT40's. I don't know if it wil hurt anything for sure but it's better safe than sorry.
You need to make sure that you have cast iron GT40's on your car. If you look at the passenger side head right beside the front lower head bolt it should have a GT cast into the head if it has GT40 heads. If it has GT40p's it will have GTP in the same spot.
You need to make sure that you have cast iron GT40's on your car. If you look at the passenger side head right beside the front lower head bolt it should have a GT cast into the head if it has GT40 heads. If it has GT40p's it will have GTP in the same spot.
both heads say GTP on the corner next to the bolt... whats the difference in the GT and GTP heads ? and they have the long threaded plugs in them and I looked at the old ones I took out and they don't appear to of had any threads sticking into the combustion chamber. wich heads are better? and I will check the computer in a few minutes for a chip. and the tops of the injectors are orange. not sure of the brand of MAF or throttle body but here are pics of them.
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get this ****... the car started it's crap again... started investigating and discovered the wire harness that goes into the distributor... as it passes by the metal spinning part of the rotor (the eye trigger I guess) that thing had shaved off the insulation of one of the green wires and the bare copper was rubbing on it!!! pulled it away and cranked it up... problem solved!!! dam that was silly ****. stuck some liquid tape on the wire and shoved them down away from the trigger. this weekend I'm replacing it with an msd6al, an msd billet distributor and an msd coil anyway. any info on these heads guys?
rj95svt
Member
The GT40P heads which you have are the better heads of the two. I am not sure which plugs the GT40P's take though. The heads came stock on 97-2001 explorers and have better flowing exhaust ports although they have smaller exhaust valves. The combustion chamber is smaller and more efficient and the plugs have a different angle which requires different headers to clear the plugs.
The Throttle body appears to be from Pro Products and it looks as though you have stock 19lb injectors and stock MAF. I would personally steer clear of the MSD distributor as some people have problems with them although some don't. You will probably not get any power increase from it as well. The MSD 6AL and coil should be fine though.
BTW, you need to get a timing light and check the timing. Stock timing is 10 degrees with the spout plug located by the cold air intake on the fender taken out. If your car has a chip on it set it back at 10 and replace the spout but if you have don't have a chip it should be ok to bump the timing up to about 14 or so as long as you don't hear any detonation or pinging.
The Throttle body appears to be from Pro Products and it looks as though you have stock 19lb injectors and stock MAF. I would personally steer clear of the MSD distributor as some people have problems with them although some don't. You will probably not get any power increase from it as well. The MSD 6AL and coil should be fine though.
BTW, you need to get a timing light and check the timing. Stock timing is 10 degrees with the spout plug located by the cold air intake on the fender taken out. If your car has a chip on it set it back at 10 and replace the spout but if you have don't have a chip it should be ok to bump the timing up to about 14 or so as long as you don't hear any detonation or pinging.
what's it do? and I looked at the computer in my kick panel but didn't take it out... where would the chip be if I had one?Similar threads
