NEW HERE PRESENTING MY FIRST 5.0...WANTING ADVICE

The systemmax is a very tall intake, I dont see how his engine would be sitting too high, a lot of people run into problems with that intake clearing the stock hood. That is a really good intake manifold though I was surprised when I saw that on there, that thing is worth about $600 alone. $3700 is a damn good buy
 
The statements about 30lb. injectors being to big is true and false at the same time. Aftermarket maf's cal'ed for bigger injectors can cause some rich conditions at idle and startup. If you get a custom tune though this is not a problem and the 30lb. injectors will act just as mild as stockers. If the car isn't running real rich and get decent mileage I would not swap the injectors. If your getting bad gas mileage though you might want to look into a custom tune or smaller injectors like 24's and a matching maf. Personally I would go the custom tune route though because that will get rid of driveability problems such as bucking and surging at idle. I would install some aftermarket heads first though so that the tune is optimized for the complete combo. If your not planning on installing aftermaket heads though that don't matter.
 
Welcome to Stangnet...

Not all of us know how to fix everything, but some of us know how to fix some things with excellence!

If you want to do the fix up & power up thing, make sure that you have some other form of reliable daily driver. That way the stang can sit while your wallet and hands take a rest from the last project that didn't quite get finished on that 3 day weekend. Things always cost more and take longer the first time you do them. Having some other working vehicle makes life easier since it isn't the big crush to get it running for the Monday morning drive to work or class.

Plan on spending some money on tools it you don't already have them. The stang has both metric and american fasteners, so you really need two sets of wrenches. A timing light, digital voltmeter, vacuum gauge, compression tester, fuel pressure test gauge and fuel line coupler tools are some of the test & tuning tools you'll need. Visit the pawn shops and sometimes you can find a deal on tools & test equipment if you stick to well known name brands.

A sheltered work area is almost a must, someplace that you can leave the car in pieces without upsetting anyone. Some guys here have changed a transmission in the parking lot of their apartment in a rainstorm, but they will tell you it wasn't fun. Depending on where you live, a warm dry garage is a nice place to do the winter projects that stangs tend to become.

EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) Computer - every stang after 85 has or had one: don't let it intimidate you. The computer based EFI systems are not hard to fix and most of the time they tell you what's wrong with the engine. Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $20 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select boo...n just about everything on a 5.0 Mustang.[/b]
 
-Systemax intake with a spacer... that explains the hood the engine is right where it should be.

-Centerforce clutch, and the fact this is your first Mustang explains why the clutch feels hard, they all do.

-5 lug was done by the owner or a previoud owner, and appears to be SN95 fronts, with drums out back.

Motor combo is very mismatched, but some decent stuff to use or sell... The car looks to be in good shape and has lots of potential.
 
-Systemax intake with a spacer... that explains the hood the engine is right where it should be.

-Centerforce clutch, and the fact this is your first Mustang explains why the clutch feels hard, they all do.

-5 lug was done by the owner or a previoud owner, and appears to be SN95 fronts, with drums out back.

Motor combo is very mismatched, but some decent stuff to use or sell... The car looks to be in good shape and has lots of potential.

amen :nice:
 
How the hell would YOU know? :rlaugh:

Crank out a bunch of HP on your way from the garage door to the trash cans, do ya? :eek:

He said he has 40 miles on the car in another thread... I know because he was telling me how great his black interior is holding up, and I was trying to find exactly how many miles he had been through with it to give a fair assessment.

:D
 
thanks for all the responses everyone, the whole clutch thing is kicking my ass! the sole of my foot actually hurts from having to floor the clutch as far as the floor will go! i dont know maybe im bieght a weiner or a wuss?? but i think its way to damn hard...heading out this friday hopefully to a stang meet and hopefully meet some mustang gear heads that can access the situation properly in person and hopefully they wana earn some green fixing the small problems i mentioned at first.
I read in an earlier post about bucking at idle, noticed this and im thinknig im getting rid of the injectors and gettign some 24#, but i have no idea what MAF it has or if it even has one? dont even know if its the right term? LOL sucks being so new to this...
Hopefully it goes well at the meets and i can find a good gear head thats got some time to help me out, in exchange for cash of course....
 
Don't let anyone get you down about the rebuilt title, You are going to have alot of fun at the other guys expense. Don't put alot into it just drive the sheet out of it and move on as your interests change. Trust me I may be old and a burn-out but I have learned.
 
The clutch should be stiff, but not so stiff as to actually hurt you. There could be a few different things wrong.
1 your cable could be binding. Follow it out of the fire wall to the tranny and look for any burn or worn spots that could be rubbing.

2 check your quadrant (the thing that attaches the cable to the pedals under the dash) If it is stock (plastic) replace it with a new one. Steeda makes a great replacment.

3. This is the worst. Your Bearing retainer on the tranny could be worn out and causing your throw out bearing to bind. I had this happen after replacing all the above and it caused me to actually break the throw out bearing, crack the bearing retainer and ruin a brand new pressure plate.

I might be forgetting something here, a little sleepy. Either way look at it pretty quick to keep the cost down. Odds are its just ur cable or quadrant as those are the most common. Wouldn't hurt to ask the original owner what he replaced when he did/had the clutch done.

Hope this helps. Welcome to Stangnet.
 
hmmm more good info....well took it out for it first cruise under my belt. met bunch of cool people. met a few gear heads and there is actually one down the block that works on foxes, taking the car over to him today so take a look and listen at it.....im gettign the injectors changed to 24# unless i shouldnt or maybe go down to some 19#, getting all the fluids flushed and replaced, speedo gear fixed and a few people said that the rockers? sounded like they needed adjusting? iono?..this guys said hed do all that for $75-$100

My goals for the car are primarily reliability and good MPG without sacrificing too much perfomance, OH and getting the AC cold as can be! heating as well. From what i was told this guy is a pretty bad mofo when it comes to wrenching, so hopefully he can take a look at it and give me the best advice possible to keep the car running hard and strong as it sits.