New Juice.. need help on wiring.

mustangillusion

Founding Member
Jun 24, 2001
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Oklahoma
I bought this alternator off ebay about a week or two ago. Its was described as an 120 amp, made by a company called beavco. The guy explained to me how he thought it should be wired up but I only got more confused. Can anyone help me figure out how to wire this up. Look at the pic please and you will see that this is not your typical 3g alternator install. The large side plug has posts instead of a plug. A diagram would be nice.:shrug:

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Well it appears that beavco performance has either sold out or just gone out of business. I found a phone # for them on several forums but just to find out they have all been disconnected. I will go home tonight and see if there is any writing on the posts. He is how the guy that I bought it off of said to wire it. Let me know if this makes any since to you.

Quote "If I remember correctly there are three push in style connectors, one is the large one that plugs into the black connector shown in the picture. The other two are a one wire and a two wire connector. Both of the connectors are cut off. The connector with two wires is combined into one and it goes on the larger of the two posts. The remaining wire goes on the smaller post. Both wire ends are fitted with a crimp style. I will see if I can find the instructions if I can't I know I have the instructions for the new one and the proceedure is the same. Hope that helps"

Now that I read it again it does make since but I dont think the factory wiring would hold up to the extra output. so im curious how would I wire it up using my own wiring and what wire sizes. I do remember that one of the post said stat. wich probably means stator.
 
If only someone in here had a nice write-up on the wiring upgrade.







































:D
Jrichker will be in shortly with the alternator wiring upgrade lists. :nice:
 
TYpically there are 3 wires.
One is a 4 gauge fused power feed to the battery side of the starter solenoid. The fuse would be 125 amps
The second wire is 18 gauge wire for voltage sense that connects to the power feed wire.
The third wire is 18 gauge wire with 12 volts from the Run side of the ignition switch. It turns the voltage regulator on.

The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator or other high current alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.

Wiring parts & sources:

See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584

3/4 “ Black heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=082-058

3/4 “ Red heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=082-064
 
The new PA Performance 2G replacement alternators are designed the same way. http://www.pa-performance.com/display.asp?sku=157.

Their site states:

Note: Due to Ford TSB's and Inherent problems with the push on molded plug design all new alternators use stud or post connections to reduce the risk of heat build up and fire associated with the Original design. The three wires on the OEM plug will need to be cut off and provided terminals crimped and soldered.

The alt must be designed so that the Orange/Black wires from the large connector are tied together on one post while the stator wire is connected to the other post.
 
Yes actually the other plug (smaller one) looks like it would plug right In (i havnet tried). But the larger one has the two posts as shown in the picture. Wouldnt I still need to upgrade the wiring to run 120amps? I think I would want to, just to be safe.
 
Yes actually the other plug (smaller one) looks like it would plug right In (i havnet tried). But the larger one has the two posts as shown in the picture. Wouldnt I still need to upgrade the wiring to run 120amps? I think I would want to, just to be safe.

You will definitely need to upgrade the wiring, See my previous post for wiring parts and sources.

Do not connect the black/ orange wires to the new alternator.

Look at the plug on your car that seems to fit the new alternator. What color wires are on that plug?
 
If that is true, then this won't be difficult.

Disconnect the battery power ground by removing the negative battery terminal.

One 4 gauge wire goes from the big stud on the alternator to one side of a 125 amp fuse. The other side of the fuse goes to the battery side of the starter solenoid. Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables. The fuse & fuse holder may also be there too.

The power feed plug for the old alternator has two black/orange wires and one small white/black wire. After you are finished working with the white/black wire, tape the plug up good and secure it out of the way.

The white/black stator wire gets the insulation stripped back about 1 1/2" in the middle of the wire & cut in the middle of the stripped area. Then a short length of white wire with a ring terminal gets spliced on to the white/black wire. Slide on enough 1/4" heat shrink tubing on the white wire to cover the solder splice you are going to make. Next all 3 wires get soldered together & the heat shrink tubing gets shrunk. When you finish, the white/black wire looks like a "Y" with 1 white arm and 1 white/black arm. Connect the ring terminal to the small stud on the alternator.

Plug the 3 wire plug into the mating connector on the new alternator.


Add a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.

Re-connect the battery negative terminal and you are done.

This arrangement retains the stock wiring so if your new alternator ever fails, a stock 65 amp alternator can be swapped in without any problems.
 
Sounds easy enough but just to make sure im understanding clearly let me ask a few questions. On the stator wire could you not just use one of this splice lock deals and run that wire up to the stator post. Im finding it difficult to figure out why you would cut the original startor wire instead of just stripping it and adding the new wire?
 
Sounds easy enough but just to make sure im understanding clearly let me ask a few questions. On the stator wire could you not just use one of this splice lock deals and run that wire up to the stator post. Im finding it difficult to figure out why you would cut the original startor wire instead of just stripping it and adding the new wire?

The idea is that you end up with a "Y" wire for the stator. The old plug still has all the wires connected to it and the new wire has the ring terminal crimped on it. That way the old alternator still works with no changes. If your new high current alternator is DOA or dies at a later date, it is very easy to put the old alternator back in place.

Solder and heat shrinking the splice makes sure that you have quality connections and no intermittent connections that will drive you crazy. Under the hood is a hostile environment that demands the best connections you can make.
 
I thought of another question I had. What do I do with the third wire on the alternator? Other than the plug into the voltage regulator does the alternator only require two wires? (meaning the upgraded power wire and a stator.) Im just asking because in stock for the alt has 3 wires on the large plug?
 
When upgrading to the heavy gauge power cable I would also consider routing/supporting the cable so there is no undue stress on the post. The post does not look quite as stout as those found on a 3G alt and going by the pics it looks like it would be more susceptible to damage from cable weight/vibration especially since the post will be close to the 8-9 o'clock position when the alt is mounted.
 
I thought of another question I had. What do I do with the third wire on the alternator? Other than the plug into the voltage regulator does the alternator only require two wires? (meaning the upgraded power wire and a stator.) Im just asking because in stock for the alt has 3 wires on the large plug?

On the stock large plug there are two Orange/Black wires and one White. Both O/BK wires are tied together further up the cable so in essence it is a single wire.