New M/T Drag Radials = Major Wheel hop.
- Thread starter thehueypilot
- Start date
Yes.2bav8 said:Cal-Tracs
http://www.novaresource.org/ct/ct18.jpg
This is why you are still getting wheel hop. That much torque coming from that motor is just too much for the leafs to handle alone.
Short of nuying thae bars, the only other thing I can say to do it to buy a 1/4 thick bar and strap it to your leafs in front and back. This again is just a test to show you the wheel hop is coming from the wrap up. the lakewoods may, may work. They are just like any normal traction bar. If you decide not to get the Caltracs ( because they are $$$$ ), try to get ones that mount or push up in the same spot as the picture. They will still wrap up, but maybe they won't snap back because the twisting action is forcing the leaf up. But no promises.
Take a look at the website. Almost every single car is lifting perfectly straight.
302 coupe
Founding Member
i went to the track for the first time today with my cal tracs...had some wheel hop but I was able to tune it out with about a full turn of preload. Also, cut a 2.03 60 ft (previous best was 2.27) on 225/60/15 radials, LOL..... I don't think I could have done it without the cal-tracs.
302 coupe said:
Full turn of preload (lenghten) to both sides or just the right side? How much are CalTracs?
302 coupe
Founding Member
www.calvertracing.com
the guys there are very nice and easy to do business with. Tell them your problems, ask questions, they'll get you fixed up.
to answer your question, I added roughly a turn to both sides. I was having to eyeball it, lying on my back on the ground in my pit area with an adjustable wrench. Not too scientific, but the car responded well. Just about every car that I see running good with leaf springs is using some sort of cal-trac system.
the guys there are very nice and easy to do business with. Tell them your problems, ask questions, they'll get you fixed up.
to answer your question, I added roughly a turn to both sides. I was having to eyeball it, lying on my back on the ground in my pit area with an adjustable wrench. Not too scientific, but the car responded well. Just about every car that I see running good with leaf springs is using some sort of cal-trac system.
mustangman70 said:I have the lakewood traction bars and LOVE em
But do they work when drag racing? What are your 60' times?
302 coupe
Founding Member
note that the lakewood slapper bars serve only to reduce axle wrap. That is why they are $30 and the cal tracs are $320. Don't fool yourself into thinking that a slapper bar will work as well as the CT's.
mustangman70, definately post back and tell us how your car hooked up.
mustangman70, definately post back and tell us how your car hooked up.
302 coupe said:
I am hesitant about spending more money on something that I have not seen actually work. I have seen the "Lakewood’s" launch on 1.40 60' times on rear leaf spring cars. I have not talked to Calvert Racing yet to see if they have a money back guarantee.
10secgoal said:
That's the story of my life.......I pay full price for everything and turn around and sell it for a loss to everyone else! LOL Another concern is the solid, spring eye bushing. I drive mine on the street so a solid connection like that would transmit vibration directly into the frame. I replaced TCP solid motor mounts not too long ago for that same reason.
302 coupe
Founding Member
I haven't noticed any vibrations coming from mine, although they do seem to transmit noise moreso than the stock rubber bushings. Then again, I think my locker is abnormally clunky. I'd definatley say they're streetable, at least as streetable as the rest of your car.
thehueypilot said:
Yeah, that's kinda the wasy it goes with some things. There don't seem to be many of us trying to go fast on stock suspension, and the parts just aren't there. Own a 5.0 and just plug and play for alot of stuff. Jon (the owner of Calvert Racing ) runs 9's on stock suspension and sells complete suspension setups for our cars. All except for front springs that I know of. But he did an independant test on front shocks and found that carrera's were the closest things to a true 90/10. None of them really are because of people like us that drive them on the street. They don't want the liabilty. He did this a fesw years ago and don't know if QA1 shocks were tested. But mine are doing fine so far. I may need to put straps on soon.
I believe he is talking about engine anti-torque straps. After removing the solid TCP engine mounts I modified my stock mounts to include a grade eight bolt that runs through both sides of the engine mount to restrict engine movement to about 1/4". This gives me no vibration through the frame because of the rubber mounts yet keeps the engine from twisting/tearing out of its mounts.
10secgoal said:
I didn't realize that switching from a vac sec carb to a DP carb would effect the launch as much as it does. It took a couple of tenths off my 60' time and put that much more stress on the suspension. So far I don't need to limit the front end travel yet......
thehueypilot said:
Yep. Changing from my edelbog to a 750 DP flipped my world all upside down. Completely different motor when I made that one change. Was really hard to believe. When you get it to hook, and keep the ass end from squatting, the front end is going to have no choice but to come up.
Went to the track last night and made some progress. The suspension is not hopping any more, but now leaving straight but spinning a lot. My 60' times were still off ranging from 1.90 to 1.79. It seemed to hook (jump) right off the line, but when the back end settled back down during 1st gear it would start to spin until second gear. The temp last night was mid 90's and about 65% humidity. Everyone with high HP was struggling for traction.
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