New member here..

[87street]

First and foremost, I would like to say I've been reading around here on this board for a while, and there are a lot of people who really know what they're talking about, and I have a great deal of respect for their mechanical inclination.
I am new to the forum, and thought I would take the time to get myself out there before I lead into any technical jargon..
My scenario is this, I recently purchased an 87 Stang hatch 5.0 H.O with a t5... I bought it knowing full well it had been beat on pretty hard, and I just wanted a toy to play with and beat on myself before I went ahead and spent money on the car and hopped it up a little bit. Well I blew a head gasket... and i reckon now is as good a time as any...
I have an idea of two different builds I would like to go along with... one build is just a mild build, a streetcar of around 285-300 horsepower. The other build is basically to make it a nasty street/strip car of sorts that'll run mid-low 11's with a full interior on street radials... With either of these builds I want to do them naturally aspirated, I just like the cool factor in knowing that my cars performance is based soley on the engine I built.
The dilemma in this situation is that the car is equipped with the speed density computer system... would either build up be more cost efficient to convert to a mass air flow computer system... or a carb'd set-up?
I have an idea of what I would need to do the mild build up, based off the carb'd set up, but what would I need to change electronically to run a carberator?
And would a carberator be a more efficient idea as to building the 11 second stang?
Overall what kind of build up (based off the 5.0/no power adder) and horsepower numbers would be needed to do this? and could it be achieved with cast-iron heads? what gears perhaps? tranny? (definitely want to run a 5 speed) and could this be done with the stock block?
I'm really sorry if I sound completely ignorant , or if my questions seem to rattle the very nerve of your being, ha... and that I came to the board immediately asking tech info, before attempting to help anyone with their own dilemmas, and offering what help i may be able to provide, however any help given would be greatly appreciated... Thank you to all who provide their insightful 5.0 information.

 

[strtrcr50]

I got an a9p computer and an 89 harness for $120 and a factory mass air/duct work for $75.
HCI will get you your 300 hp number.
The 11 sec car, I'd go hci and a blower.
Just my personal preferences.
Oh yeah, mass air in both cases.
Welcome to :SNSign:

 

[ACSPONY]

Mass air is probably easier to tune, and for your street car numbers, the stock block will be fine. For a street/track car, I'd go aluminum heads, and forced induction. If you went that route (FI), I would definitely recommend mass air.

Welcome aboard

 

[87street]

thanks..

thanks a lot guys... i really appreciate it. I've been told that forced induction may be the best option to go, but... i really wanna stick to N/A? are the the circumstantial goals i have listed possible with a naturally aspirated, 5.0 based car?

 

[Mustang5L5]

If you want a decent street car around 300, here's a simple combo to put together

GT-40P heads w/upgraded springs (maybe a little port and polish)
TFS Stage 1 cam
Cobra Intake w/tmoss lower porting(or another similar intake)
65mm TB
Convert to Mass Air
FMS P-specific headers,
H-pipe + Catback of your choice
pullies
3G conversion and e-fan

3.55;s out back
short throw shifter


Get it dyno tuned and call it a day

 

[87street]

that's a pretty similar build-up as to what i was thinking, only I had it planned out with a carb, running an RPM air-gap intake with a holley 650 mechanical secondary carb.

 

[Mustang5L5]

You can do that too if you'd like

I prefer EFI myself.

 

[87street]

what would I have to change over to run a carb'd set up?

 

[87street]

and... does anyone have a 5.0 fox similar to the "street/strip" build i was referring to? i wouldn't want to copy the build or anything, i just would like to see some pix or somethin, know that a car like that does exist, ha.

 

[jrichker]

Converting an EFI car to carb ruins the car as far as I am concerned.

Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $25-$35 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select boo...ra charge. See [url]http://www.amazonhose.com for more information.

For stainless steel braided hose and fittings for automotive use:

See summitracing.com

stainless steel hose - JEGS High Performance

See Eaton Aeroquip > Performance Products for more information on High performance automotive hose products

The fancy red & blue AN fittings require a 37 degree flaring tool. A standard automotive or household plumbing tool is 45 degrees and cannot be used with AN flare fittings. If you do, the flare is subjected to too much stress when the fitting is tightened, and is likely to fail or leak.

See Industrial Supply Equipment from MSC Industrial Supply , McMaster-Carr or for the flaring tool you will need . Prices start at $77 and go up

Browse the MSC Big Book

Tube Flaring & Expanding Tools

While you are at the electrical part, you'll need a Durspark or similar ignition system with a mechanical spark advance. The 85 Mustang GT 5 speed has a suitable Duraspark distributor with a steel gear compatible with the roller camshaft. The EFI ignition depends on the EFI sensors to advance the spark. Rip out the TPS and MAP/Baro sensors and the computer will have no idea of the proper ignition timing for best performance. Running a fixed timing setting is only for test purposes or for a race track only car. Don't try it on the street: the results will not be nearly as good as a properly setup Durspark or equal. Crane makes a really nice distributor for non-EFI applications. . See CraneCams for more information.

Tools needed:
Crimp tool for connector pins $9-$30 AutoZone, NAPA, Advance Auto Parts or other store
100-150 watt soldering gun (recommend WELLER 8200PK soldering gun kit 100/140W) $30 at Lowes or $40 at Home Depot
3/32”-1/8” rosin core electrical solder, 1/4 lb roll $6 at Ace Hardware, Home Depot or Lowes
Assorted sizes of heat shrink tubing. Buy long pieces and cut length to fit. It is cheaper that way. Parts-Express.com - Heat Shrink Index: 2:1 Ratio, 3:1 Ratio, Heat Shrink Kits
Hot air gun to shrink the tubing ($30-$40) Home Depot
Jeweler’s screwdriver kit $5 at Ace Hardware
Assorted automotive wire, 18-16 gauge 10’-20’ foot spools in different colors. $5 a roll at Advance Auto Parts.
Ford connector pins AutoZone, NAPA or other store $5-$10 for a kit of 10-12 assorted pins

You will have $110-$150 in materials and tools if you don't already have them.

The water temp and oil pressure signals feed from the sender to the main harness through the 10 pin EFI engine harness. To utilize these senders, you need to identify the wires and find a way to reconnect them to the main harness after the EFI engine harness is removed. You need a weatherproof quick connector to join the sender wiring to the main harness.

You will need to construct a wiring harness from the ‘85 carb distributor to the Duraspark box if you go Duraspark, or other distributor to coil wiring.
The voltmeter picks up its signal from the switched voltage present on the instrument panel, so you don’t need to worry about that.

The fuel tank gauge is also independent of the computer wiring.

AutoZone wiring diagrams

AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection - Year for 79-88 model Mustangs

AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection - Year for 89-93 model Mustangs

AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection - Year for 94-98 model Mustangs

How to solder like a pro - Ford Fuel Injection How To Solder Like a Pro a must read for any automotive wiring job.

Soldering pigtails onto existing pins is road kill quality work as far as I am concerned. Take some time to study the way the Ford connectors are assembled and you will find that a small jeweler’s screwdriver will release the pins from the connector shell. New pins and a crimping tool are available from the Standard Motor Parts or Bendix Electrical parts line that the NAPA & Bumper to Bumper Auto Parts stores carry. Ask any auto parts store about Standard Motor Products or Bendix Electrical wiring parts. Those that carry them will be able to get the parts you need. AutoZone has a cheap kit with 10 pins for about $5. Just enough pins to leave you short when assembling a connector.

One of the interesting things about the Ford OEM wiring diagrams is that the connector shape on the drawing matches the connector shape in the car. That makes it easier to identify connectors and circuits. OEM Ford diagrams are available at for an 85 Mustang at Helm Incorporated: Search Results or can be found in the Chilton series of auto repair manuals for Mustangs.

The following is an excellent idea from a fellow Stangnetter who tackled the wiring plan the right way. He obtained the wiring diagrams from an 85 carb'd V8 Mustang and laid them out side by side with the diagrams from his car. He then traced out each circuit and the wire colors and connectors associated with them. After tracing the circuit and connectors for a circuit, he laid out the changes he needed to make. One circuit at a time made a difficult big job into many smaller easy to manage jobs.

 

[87street]

thanks for that helpful info man, all help is greatly appreciated.

 

[TomCat]

Welcome to the site, hope you find all the info you're looking for here!
As people have said, H/C/I and a blower will get you 11s quickly. N/A 11s isn't quite as common, so it's cool in that respect. Good luck with whatever way you decide to go!

 

[SMOKEDYA]

If you want a decent street car around 300, here's a simple combo to put together

GT-40P heads w/upgraded springs (maybe a little port and polish)
TFS Stage 1 cam
Cobra Intake w/tmoss lower porting(or another similar intake)
65mm TB
Convert to Mass Air
FMS P-specific headers,
H-pipe + Catback of your choice
pullies
3G conversion and e-fan

3.55;s out back
short throw shifter


Get it dyno tuned and call it a day

This dam near to the T what my combo i mean the combo is i'm selling this weekend! Ny car ran 12.2 with 4.10's all motor w/5spd.My heads are ported polished and flowed same with the intake. here is a video of what it sounds like(cam wise) but i'm pulling it and sold it this weekend for a 351 thats 40 over and some nice ole goodies! look for my post on whats under the hood N/A for next year! mmmmmmmmmm love it!
View attachment 303449 peace



john

 

[87street]

thanks tomcat, and as i see in your sig, as well as what ive been told before by other people, the gt40p heads must be somethin pretty solid,... those are the heads found on the 97 explorer 5.0's correct?

 

[87street]

smokedya, that notch sounds great! the slp's are a pretty sweet muffler, and that cam has a pretty nice lope, is that the Trickflow Stage 1? and I assume that's an H pipe?

 

[TomCat]

thanks tomcat, and as i see in your sig, as well as what ive been told before by other people, the gt40p heads must be somethin pretty solid,... those are the heads found on the 97 explorer 5.0's correct?

Yep the 97+ 5.0 explorers. They're great heads that can be had for very cheap! Just gotta watch out for that spark plug angle... makes some headers not work too well.

 

[87street]

will definitely be on the lookout for those... thanks!

 

[SMOKEDYA]

smokedya, that notch sounds great! the slp's are a pretty sweet muffler, and that cam has a pretty nice lope, is that the Trickflow Stage 1? and I assume that's an H pipe?

i dont know the cam numbers but it's some kind of crane cam. yes i have mac L/T's with a mac prochamber and SLP loud mouth 2's. peace


john

 

[87street]

is it possible to run a mechanical roller cam in a 5.0 with efi? sorry if that sounds stupid... I just figure that due to the large potential of a properly tuned engine with a solid roller cam, (key word being potential) that maybe a mech roller would be an option for me. once again, i appreciate the feedback ive gotten so far on this board.