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New Mustang Owner

  • Thread starter Thread starter Derrick arbuckle
  • Start date Start date Aug 16, 2017
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Derrick arbuckle

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#21
  • Aug 17, 2017
  • #21
68keyblr said:
retorque the intake following the proper torque sequence (google it) and I would definitely snug up the water pump, timing cover, and header bolts...header bolts especially like to work loose on a new motor
Click to expand...
Yeah I thought that I had heard a leaky manifold gasket the other day I had the same issue on the ranger I had built up manifold bolts kept walking free damn things
 

mikestang63

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#22
  • Aug 17, 2017
  • #22
from what you posted, looks like a budget build car that although won't be a high HP car, should be a fun car, assuming it was assembled properly. You don't know what compression the engine is or what type of pistons, rings, bearing, etc. Who built the engine, If a professional, there should be a build sheet and receipts, As the motor only has a few hundred miles on it, did the owner tell you what oil he put in it and if he did the initial oil change? Regardless, I would be changing the oil to whatever you plan on running in it going forward along with an FL1A or Wix filter, I would also cut open the existing filter to examine it for any signs of metal. I would also go over every nut and bolt possible on the motor and make sure they are all properly torqued. as they can loosen during the first heat cycles and miles. I would also check the coolant to make sure it is properly filled and no signs of any mechanical issues. Since it is a carb, you should also recheck the idle, fast idle, and mixture settings. Last, pull the plugs and see how they look.
 
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Derrick arbuckle

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#23
  • Aug 17, 2017
  • #23
mikestang63 said:
from what you posted, looks like a budget build car that although won't be a high HP car, should be a fun car, assuming it was assembled properly. You don't know what compression the engine is or what type of pistons, rings, bearing, etc. Who built the engine, If a professional, there should be a build sheet and receipts, As the motor only has a few hundred miles on it, did the owner tell you what oil he put in it and if he did the initial oil change? Regardless, I would be changing the oil to whatever you plan on running in it going forward along with an FL1A or Wix filter, I would also cut open the existing filter to examine it for any signs of metal. I would also go over every nut and bolt possible on the motor and make sure they are all properly torqued. as they can loosen during the first heat cycles and miles. I would also check the coolant to make sure it is properly filled and no signs of any mechanical issues. Since it is a carb, you should also recheck the idle, fast idle, and mixture settings. Last, pull the plugs and see how they look.
Click to expand...
What oil would you recommend in a engine like this? I have a build sheet I believe everything was copyed to the original Craigslist post off the paper in the pictures I attached clevite h series bearings unless that's not what you were referring to? Absolutely a very fun car to drive for sure compared to my last 5.0
 

TOOLOW91

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#24
  • Aug 17, 2017
  • #24
Black1987 said:
The guys who make these cams can do it remotely...meaning you call them, discuss the specs, goals for the car. Then they make it and ship it to you.

@TOOLOW91 might know of a good guy.
Click to expand...
Brian Freezy . Guy is a whiz.
 
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Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
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#25
  • Aug 17, 2017
  • #25
If your car has ac, don't remove it. You gain little to nothing by doing so. I tell this story to people. My friend ripped all his ac stuff out for no reason. He said his car was a "race car" and race cars don't need ac. We have no track here, it was his daily driver. After a few months he needed to sell the car. Every call inquiring about the car went like this. "Does the ac work?" Nope. Click! Don't do it. My best advice I can give followed closely by don't ever do underwrite pullies.
 
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Derrick arbuckle

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#26
  • Aug 17, 2017
  • #26
Mstng93SSP said:
If your car has ac, don't remove it. You gain little to nothing by doing so. I tell this story to people. My friend ripped all his ac stuff out for no reason. He said his car was a "race car" and race cars don't need ac. We have no track here, it was his daily driver. After a few months he needed to sell the car. Every call inquiring about the car went like this. "Does the ac work?" Nope. Click! Don't do it. My best advice I can give followed closely by don't ever do underwrite pullies.
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Ahh yeah that does make sense I'll just leave it in then if I ever part ways with the car then maybe someone will like the ac aspect of it
 

Black1987

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#27
  • Aug 17, 2017
  • #27
Derrick arbuckle said:
What oil would you recommend in a engine like this? I have a build sheet I believe everything was copyed to the original Craigslist post off the paper in the pictures I attached clevite h series bearings unless that's not what you were referring to? Absolutely a very fun car to drive for sure compared to my last 5.0
Click to expand...

What type of oil to run is a complicated question and will range from 5w-30 guy to the 10w-30 crowd. I would say run the either but ensure at minimum its a partial synthetic or full synthetic.

Not going to get into the hydrodynamics excuse of what i run but its 15w-40 Diesel oil that no one has ever probably heard of (Wolfs head).

Just run a good quality oil and filter and dont venture below 5w-30 imo.
 
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mikestang63

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#28
  • Aug 17, 2017
  • #28
normally you run whataver oil the engine builder recommends
i run rotella 15-40 in my fox body cars for the lst 20 years ,,,, yes its an oil made for "diesel" engines... and i always laugh when the parts monkey asks what car I am putting it in.. lo
 
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Derrick arbuckle

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Aug 18, 2017
#29
  • Aug 18, 2017
  • #29
Ahh okay.. My last fox I ran 10w 30 but it was a used beat on car.. This one I actually take a bit more pride it in and want to take care of it.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#30
  • Aug 18, 2017
  • #30
Black1987 said:
What type of oil to run is a complicated question and will range from 5w-30 guy to the 10w-30 crowd. I would say run the either but ensure at minimum its a partial synthetic or full synthetic.

Not going to get into the hydrodynamics excuse of what i run but its 15w-40 Diesel oil that no one has ever probably heard of (Wolfs head).

Just run a good quality oil and filter and dont venture below 5w-30 imo.
Click to expand...
Wolfs head is all I've used in my truck, hard to find down here,
Yes, in the stang too,
Thank you amazon prime.
 
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Derrick arbuckle

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#31
  • Sep 13, 2017
  • #31
Hey all back again.. Sadly not with very good news.. Did my oil change the other day.. Ran Mobil 1 10 w 30 synthetic in it.. Check for any metal found none even in the filter nothing.. Today on my way home I noticed a odd noise on excelleration sounds to me like some top end noise.. Seems to be coming under the valve cover.. Maybe something had come loose..? Sounds like a tapping noise.. Hopefully its not in the bottom end.. Won't be able to check into it for a few days due to work..
 

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
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#32
  • Sep 14, 2017
  • #32
Pull the valve covers and check your rockers. If any one of them are loose that would be your noise and then you would need to determine the cause. If they are all tight then further inspection will be needed. Can you post a video of the engine running so we can hear the noise?
 
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Derrick arbuckle

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#33
  • Sep 14, 2017
  • #33
Yeah I'll do a video tomorrow before I head I to work.. What would cause a rocker to become loose..? Amy ideas?
 
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Derrick arbuckle

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#34
  • Sep 14, 2017
  • #34
Won't let me upload the video for some reason.. Something about a security issue
 

a91what

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#35
  • Sep 14, 2017
  • #35
I also run rotella 15w40 in my 5.0 just seems to like it better than the thin oils.
 
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FoxMustangLvr

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#36
  • Sep 14, 2017
  • #36
Derrick arbuckle said:
Yeah I'll do a video tomorrow before I head I to work.. What would cause a rocker to become loose..? Amy ideas?
Click to expand...
Were you beating on it right before the noise started? High rpm spirited driving? Could be a broken valve spring, bad lifter, push rod, etc....Lots of things could've caused it including random part failure. I would not start the car again until you pull both valve covers and inspect the valve train. You can pull the spark plugs and rotate the crank with a breaker bar if need be.
 

FoxMustangLvr

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#37
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a91what said:
I also run rotella 15w40 in my 5.0 just seems to like it better than the thin oils.
Click to expand...
Why 15w? Doesn't seem necessary for our vehicles.
 

a91what

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#38
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It's standard diesel oil found on any shelf. Hard to find 10w40 sometimes
 
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Derrick arbuckle

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#39
  • Sep 14, 2017
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I did a highway pull about 45 mins before any noise began.. 4th gear pull up to 120mph let off the gas at about 5500 to 5800 rpm.. I have a msd rev chip for 6k anyways. But after that it was just normal driving cruising home around 3k to 3500 rpm. Stopped got gas left no noise drove to NY home town pry 30 mins away stopped at a stop light and took off ( normal lol ) and I heard the noise
 
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Derrick arbuckle

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#40
  • Sep 14, 2017
  • #40
And what's the max rpm I should ever take that anyways..? I have good power off the line but once I hit 4 k it snapps open like a rocket.. Not sure if that's got so thing to do with the holley 680 carb or if its something else?
 
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