New Sapphire Blue 95 GT, A few questions

[putertopia]

First question: Unless I prime the fuel system (key on, key off, key on) three times, the car takes forever to start. It has a BBK adjustable fuel pressure regulator, but the narrowband air-fuel gauge says the mixture is good. The possibilities I could think of is fuel filter, fuel pump, and maybe that FPR has something to do with that? Any other ideas?

Second question: The rear end sounds like every older Jeep Grand Cherokee and Cherokee I've driven, with a constant 'rubbing' noise. I see in the receipt history that the first PO had rebuilt the rear end, supposedly with 3.73 gears and I know for a fact it is posi. the guy I bought it off of had the gears re-shimmed, new wheel bearings and axle seals. Made no difference. I've heard Detroit lockers like to make a bunch of noise. Is there a set of gears out there that are silent?

Third question: Apparently this car has a B&M Ripper short shift kit, according to more receipts. To me, it slides into gear somewhat easily, but going into 3rd and 5th is kind of awkward and I have missed several times. Do you think I'm used to just driving euro imports where you can use your pinky to shift? I've never had a car like this, so I'm not sure. I've also never had a car where you can just let the clutch out quickly and it'll move with its own power and no throttle, nor have I ever owned a car where all you have to do to spin the tires is mash the gas in first gear. I don't know - am I showing my newbieness?

Fourth question: This thing tracks to the road like crazy. There are times where I hold onto the steering wheel with both hands for dear life. The rims are 17", 245/45/zr17 tires. They're runflats. Why the hell does the road control where my car goes? Should I be looking at the tie rod ends? Alignment? There is a very small amount of slop in the wheel that I would also like to take care of, and was wondering if these steering boxes were adjustable.

Fifth question: The car sounds cammed. I'm not going to say it isn't but it has a full flowmaster exhaust system with a BBK H-pipe and no cats. At a red light, I swear it sounds like its loping a little. To my knowledge, no such work has been done to this car, and I don't think it's quick enough to be possible. Idle is perfect (6-700 ish rpms), it doesn't bounce or seem irregular, just sounds cammed. If it were a vacuum leak, I'd think I'd see it on the air-fuel gauge or feel it.

Only mods to my knowledge is the short throw shift kit, flowmaster full exhaust, BBK h-pipe, msd blaster coil, BBK fenderwell intake, 3.73 posi rear end, BBK adjustable FPR, BBK 70 MM throttle body, and air-fuel gauge. Maybe I'll find more as I go along... I want GT40 heads and intake for my next mod.

 

[Chythar]

Wow, that's a lot to deal with. Let's start with....

1. Air/fuel gauges are usually junk unless you have wideband O2's, which are very expensive. You need to check the fuel pressure yourself. On the passenger's side of the fuel rail, near the oil filler cap is a small valve (it may or may not have a black plastic cap on it). You can buy a fuel pressure gauge that screws on to that valve. Put the gauge on BEFORE you start up the car, then start it up and take a look. fuel pressure at idle should be 33-34 psi. Pull off the vacuum hose on the fuel pressure regulator and you should get 39-40psi. The fuel filter is easy to replace, it should be done anyway if the previous owner didn't do it.

2. A constant rubbing noise, or one that rubs once each time the wheel rotates is likely the brake caliper sticking. Jack the rear end up in the air, then rotate one tire by hand. If you can find a spot where the tire sticks or won't rotate easily, then the calipers are sticking. The calipers slide on -- wait for it -- sliders, and if they aren't greased well the caliper won't move when the brakes are applied. You can pop the sliders out and re-grease them; might as well get a rear brake hardware kit and replace the small parts.

3. Shifting into 5th is a bit awkward for me as well, it's an odd movement for the arm. You'll get used to it. As to letting out the clutch with no throttle, my Mustang can't do that. Maybe the 3.73's make that a little easier. Mustangs are known for their torque - spinning tires off the line is pretty easy to do in these cars.

4. Steering racks are not adjustable. Does the car track to the road without the steering wheel moving? If so, you likely need new tie rod ends. If the wheel turns with the tracking, your tires may just do that. I had a set of Kumho tires that like to follow every crack in the pavement; I changed tires and the problem mostly went away. Check for the slop with a friend; he/she looks at the steering shaft, while you wiggle the wheel. Don't move it much, just within the slop. That should give you an idea where the slop is.

5. I believe Flowmasters can give you a "cammed" sound. The RPM's aren't 100% solid; the gauge has slop in it too. I would recommend you adjust your idle using these instructions.

 

[putertopia]

I'll take a look at those. I did notice it already has a fuel gauge on the fuel rail, and I turned the key just once and it remained to be at zero, which I know it shouldn't. I'll have to see what it's at while it's running. Hopefully that will be something simple and I figure it out before it affects anything else.

As for the rear end noise, the PO said it's done that since he owned it in 2006. He said brake wear is normal, so I don't know, I hope when a shop did the wheel bearings they would have noticed the caliper slides. Anything is possible in a used car I suppose. It just really sounds like it's in the axles because its a heavy rubbing noise, enough to be able to feel it in the back seat.

I plan on doing a full detail this evening, so I will post a thread with some pix and maybe I can get it up on jackstands and check some stuff out. Thanks!

 

[desertcox05]

while it's in the air look for rubbing on the drive shaft. that might be the noise your hearing and feeling

 

[Chythar]

while it's in the air look for rubbing on the drive shaft. that might be the noise your hearing and feeling

Good point, I forgot about that one. The parking brake bracket is above the driveshaft, and over time it tends to bend. You'll see a shiny spot on the driveshaft if this is happening.

 

[putertopia]

Howbout a grind going into 5th gear? If I don't let the revs fall before I put it into 5th, it grinds and its starting to effect my every day driving. It really does it if I'm getting on it, but its kinda doing it while I'm shifting at my normal 2.5k rpm. Probably synchros, requiring a rebuild, right?

 

[Chythar]

Sounds like synchros to me as well.

 

[putertopia]

OK, no fuel pressure on prime until the third key turn, and it immediately starts dropping again. Is there any kind of check valve within the fuel pump? You can hear fuel draining back into the tank on key-off.

Changed the trans fluid, wow what a difference. Still grinds into 5th unless you double clutch, but now I can slap it into gear without any real force as opposed to before. Fluid was darker orange colored.

Rear end noise remains to be a mystery. Brakes aren't rubbing anywhere, and the sound seems to be originating from inside the axle.

Checked out the front tires, definitely gonna need an alignment. That probably explains some of the awkward handling traits this car has. Inside of front tires are a bit worn.

As for the cammed sound, I'm going to let it be. I can't find any vacuum leaks, everything seems to be functioning properly, no overheating, so it sounds fine to me and I always get compliments. Who knows, maybe it is cammed .

Now to replace the blower motor resistor, serp belt (without smog pump), and whatever needs attended to in the fuel system and this car should be 100% defect free. I even changed the power steering fluid (nastyness).

 

[Chythar]

Excellent! Glad you're getting a handle on that mess. As to the fuel pressure, does the pump prime each time you turn the key? if so, it's likely still good. The fuel pressure dropping as soon as you turn the engine off makes me suspect the fpr. The fuel pump provides the pressure, but the fpr should keep it for a while. A properly-functioning fpr will let the pressure slowly bleed off over time, but it should hold steady right after key off.

 

[putertopia]

Yeah she still pressurizes each time you turn the key (that's how I prime before I start), but the pressure starts dropping off as soon as the fuel pump shuts off. I have an aftermarket BBK FPR, not sure how it works. It's not leaking fuel though, could that FPR just simply be bad?

 

[Chythar]

That's my guess. The inner workings could have easily failed. Unless you have boosted your fuel pressure over 40psi for some reason, and your mods don't indicate you do, a stock fpr will be fine. Might be worth buying one as a test.

 

[95BlueStallion]

First question: Unless I prime the fuel system (key on, key off, key on) three times, the car takes forever to start. It has a BBK adjustable fuel pressure regulator, but the narrowband air-fuel gauge says the mixture is good. The possibilities I could think of is fuel filter, fuel pump, and maybe that FPR has something to do with that? Any other ideas?

Second question: The rear end sounds like every older Jeep Grand Cherokee and Cherokee I've driven, with a constant 'rubbing' noise. I see in the receipt history that the first PO had rebuilt the rear end, supposedly with 3.73 gears and I know for a fact it is posi. the guy I bought it off of had the gears re-shimmed, new wheel bearings and axle seals. Made no difference. I've heard Detroit lockers like to make a bunch of noise. Is there a set of gears out there that are silent?

Third question: Apparently this car has a B&M Ripper short shift kit, according to more receipts. To me, it slides into gear somewhat easily, but going into 3rd and 5th is kind of awkward and I have missed several times. Do you think I'm used to just driving euro imports where you can use your pinky to shift? I've never had a car like this, so I'm not sure. I've also never had a car where you can just let the clutch out quickly and it'll move with its own power and no throttle, nor have I ever owned a car where all you have to do to spin the tires is mash the gas in first gear. I don't know - am I showing my newbieness?

Fourth question: This thing tracks to the road like crazy. There are times where I hold onto the steering wheel with both hands for dear life. The rims are 17", 245/45/zr17 tires. They're runflats. Why the hell does the road control where my car goes? Should I be looking at the tie rod ends? Alignment? There is a very small amount of slop in the wheel that I would also like to take care of, and was wondering if these steering boxes were adjustable.

Fifth question: The car sounds cammed. I'm not going to say it isn't but it has a full flowmaster exhaust system with a BBK H-pipe and no cats. At a red light, I swear it sounds like its loping a little. To my knowledge, no such work has been done to this car, and I don't think it's quick enough to be possible. Idle is perfect (6-700 ish rpms), it doesn't bounce or seem irregular, just sounds cammed. If it were a vacuum leak, I'd think I'd see it on the air-fuel gauge or feel it.

Only mods to my knowledge is the short throw shift kit, flowmaster full exhaust, BBK h-pipe, msd blaster coil, BBK fenderwell intake, 3.73 posi rear end, BBK adjustable FPR, BBK 70 MM throttle body, and air-fuel gauge. Maybe I'll find more as I go along... I want GT40 heads and intake for my next mod.

Holy crap man, sounds like you and I have the same car! Mine had the same rear end whine/rub sound when I bought it too! I ended up having the entire rear end rebuit with all new bearings (and threw in 3.73's) and the sound was gone. Id bet it will need to be torn down again to get it gone. Is your shifter the B&M Pro Ripper, or just regular Ripper? Ive had both, currently have the pro ripper. The pro ripper has replaceable springs of different stiffnesses, that can change the side to side feel. I have the stiff one on the left (makes 2nd to 3rd a quick sideways transition), and the soft one on the right making the 5th gear shift easier. Its hard to understand unless you see it and play with it to feel the difference. It obviously wont help the 5th gear grind, but makes the motion of the shifter easier/harder. My 245mm wide Michelin tires tracked to the road big time. I put 235's up front on my tri bars, with 275's in the rear (kinda gave it a big and little look with stock wheels) and the tracking went away. I think it has a lot to do with the 245's just having a perfectly straight up sidewall, and that 90 degree angle where it meets the tread just carves into the grooves of the road. I now have aftermarket wheels that are wide, and the problem is totally gone, so it may not be your tie rod ends. I know I made this long as heck, but just wanted to share my experience since I had similar issues.

Oh yeah, and one more thing. I had a vacuum leak from the gasket between my upper and lower intakes. Had a bad ass lopey idle, but I knew something was wrong. Turns out I had a lot of oil in the intake from the PCV, and it made the gasket get wet and deteriorate. Might check that out, the upper intake comes off really easily.