I meant to ask you how do you like your setup? Were you able to tell a difference in the ride and handling?
@cdurbin
I removed my front suspension this weekend and took pics. I prefer safety over winging it so take what you want from it and throw out the rest. Install is pretty much exactly opposite of removal.
Jack up one side and support car, remove wheel. Then remove caliper bolts and caliper and hang it out of the way. I used bungee cords
Now unbolt tie rod and sway bar bolts
Next I installed the Maximum Motorsports spring keeper tool, works great for removal and installation of the front springs.
Now place floor jack under your lower ball joint if your brakes are removed, mine aren't so I put it under the rotor and jacked it up so there is only a little pressure on it.
Then I did something other people may not do for added extra safety in case the spring shoots out. I wrap an 1,1oo lb rated chain with a bolt through it to catch the spring. My springs were still under pressure even after strut removal and still jumped out after prying it out. You can get the chain and bolt at Ace Hardware or other places.
Then I removed the lower strut bolts and slowly lowered the floor jack down.
Spring was still in the seat (held in with MM tool) but still had tension. I couldn't just grab the top and pull it out. So I used a pry bar and that thing jumped out, thankfully I had the chain on it. Some people say their spring just rolled out, mine never has so I do this.
Then remove the top nut on your strut. I have KYB's so this is how it works for those.
Maybe this is remedial for some, maybe not for others but I took pictures this weekend thinking maybe I'd do a write up on a safe way to remove/install the front springs. I've seen other people have their own ways and theirs is good too but I think mine is pretty straight forward and easy enough.
FWIW I have Eibach pro kit springs, UPR bump steer kit & J&M CC plates and KYB struts.
If you replace the control arm rubber bushings, do not tighten the bolts on them until you have the car up on jackstands with the suspension loaded as if the car was sitting on the ground.
If you tighten the bolts with the suspension hanging down, it preloads the bushings with a twist when the car is set back on the ground.
@cdurbin
This is how my car sits, haven't driven it ever. When I bought it I rolled it off a trailer into my garage and tore it apart. I got all the suspension done and now I'm smoothing the engine bay. Sorry I can't tell you how it rides till Spring of 2015 so I'm no help to you.
Man I am worn out! This thing has been a PITA.
Everything came out without too much problem but I can't get the new springs to seat at all.
I've watched video after video and nothing has worked. I had to call it a night. I've been out there all day and didn't really get very far.
Any advice on the springs? They don't have enough flex to get them to seat if that makes sense. Do you insert the bottom first or the top?
I'm really frustrated
If you have the MM spring install tool, it is a snap. Here is a quick video on how it's done
Or take the front springs to a shop that has a press and when they compress it, wrap the springs with some banding wire. They will slide right in and when you have everything buttoned up, cut the wire/
If you have the MM spring install tool, it is a snap. Here is a quick video on how it's done
Or take the front springs to a shop that has a press and when they compress it, wrap the springs with some banding wire. They will slide right in and when you have everything buttoned up, cut the wire/
I've got other problems to deal with too. The ball joint on the drivers side is toast so I plan to change it. I've never done that either. I'm going to borrow a press from Orielly's. I'm hoping it's not as much of a pain as the rest. It would help if I weren't getting old and have a bad back.
Depresses the hell out of me. I've always been a very active person.
Before you rent the tool, look at the balljoint to see if it has been replaced already- you can tell as it the replacements are slightly larger and are press fit and open up the hole in the A arm. You can only replace them once for this reason. If you still have the factory one, I would recommend getting the MOOG part. You can then rent the tool and press the old one out and the new one in. The biggest PITA is figuring out which spacers to use with the tool. Having an air gun makes the job much easier.
Yes they settle and remember that the front has more weight on it so it will drop more. Did you install the rears with the pigtails facing the driver side?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?