I got my Trickflow Street Heat and 75mm Accufab TB for X-mas now I am going to install it within a few days. Is there anything I should know before tackling this project? I have never done this so any tips will help!
New TB & Intake Manifold...
- Thread starter PhLoBuS
- Start date
PhLoBuS said:
If it is your first time installing a manifold make sure you remember where every thing goes. I labled everything with masking tape my first time. Also be careful when you take off the stock lower intake bolts. I had one that corroded over the years and it broke in my head. Also the manifold can be changed without taking the distributor out. The first time i did a manifold i didnt know and took it out.
04sleeper
Founding Member
Make it easy on yourself and take out the distributor. Just mark where the rotor was sitting so when you put it back in it is in the same spot.
Cover the hole from the distributor and the intake ports, along with the water passages in the heads, with rags. (that way you don't get anything in them)
I always tape off the top of the lower intake when I pull the upper off just to make sure nothing drops into the heads. Same when putting the lower on. I tape off the holes with masking tape until I am ready to put the upper back on.
Use a rag in the lifter valley and tuck it around the pushrods when cleaning the gasket material off of the heads and block to catch debris. Take your time when cleaning off the old gasket material as it is important to make the surface as clean as possible. I like to use a scour disk to clean the heads and block.
Most auto parts stores carry scour disk pads that you can hook up to a drill or die grinder to clean the surfaces. Then I like to use a little brake cleaner on a rag to clean the metal before putting on the new gaskets.
DO NOT USE A WIRE WHEEL TO CLEAN THE OLD GASKETS OFF! I have seen peices of wire end up in the oil pump and lock it up.
Speaking of gaskets. I like to use Felpro 1250's or similar with a Printo-Seal. They are MUCH easier to remove and clean if you are planning to upgrade heads later or ever have to pull the intake off again.
I like to use a very small amount of Blue RTV around the water ports spread out with my finger. Just enough to fill in the imperfections in the metal. VERY LITTLE. I know it might not be needed but I use it just as an extra measure.
It is a good idea to get new O-rings for your injectors if they are old now and replace them.
Also it is a good time to replace your thermostat and gasket as it will have to be switched over to the new intake.
Follow the torque sequence and go over the sequence a few times as you will see the inner most bolts will have to be tightened some more. Do this until all the bolts are the same ft lbs.
If I think of anything else I will just add on but this should help you some.
Good Luck,
Kevin
Cover the hole from the distributor and the intake ports, along with the water passages in the heads, with rags. (that way you don't get anything in them)
I always tape off the top of the lower intake when I pull the upper off just to make sure nothing drops into the heads. Same when putting the lower on. I tape off the holes with masking tape until I am ready to put the upper back on.
Use a rag in the lifter valley and tuck it around the pushrods when cleaning the gasket material off of the heads and block to catch debris. Take your time when cleaning off the old gasket material as it is important to make the surface as clean as possible. I like to use a scour disk to clean the heads and block.
Most auto parts stores carry scour disk pads that you can hook up to a drill or die grinder to clean the surfaces. Then I like to use a little brake cleaner on a rag to clean the metal before putting on the new gaskets.
DO NOT USE A WIRE WHEEL TO CLEAN THE OLD GASKETS OFF! I have seen peices of wire end up in the oil pump and lock it up.
Speaking of gaskets. I like to use Felpro 1250's or similar with a Printo-Seal. They are MUCH easier to remove and clean if you are planning to upgrade heads later or ever have to pull the intake off again.
I like to use a very small amount of Blue RTV around the water ports spread out with my finger. Just enough to fill in the imperfections in the metal. VERY LITTLE. I know it might not be needed but I use it just as an extra measure.
It is a good idea to get new O-rings for your injectors if they are old now and replace them.
Also it is a good time to replace your thermostat and gasket as it will have to be switched over to the new intake.
Follow the torque sequence and go over the sequence a few times as you will see the inner most bolts will have to be tightened some more. Do this until all the bolts are the same ft lbs.
If I think of anything else I will just add on but this should help you some.
Good Luck,
Kevin
zkillrr
Member
also when i remove the distributor i tooked the cap off and marked a straight
line from the rotor on the distributor
onto the lower intake and the block if you was scared like i was( first time), that way i knew that when i put the
distributor back in my timing would be very close, and it was just made a minor
adjustment it back to norm, even started
on the first go!
line from the rotor on the distributor
onto the lower intake and the block if you was scared like i was( first time), that way i knew that when i put the
distributor back in my timing would be very close, and it was just made a minor
adjustment it back to norm, even started
on the first go!
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
I'd add:
1) There is a very specific and counterintuitive torquing pattern for the lower - follow it. No more than 18-20 ft-lbs. on the lower; 10 ft-lbs on the upper. USE A TORQUE WRENCH to avoid OVER-TIGHTENING.
2) Go to the hardware store and buy 4 bolts that are the same as the lower manifold bolts. Cut the heads off and slot the remaining stud. When you go to mount the lower, put them in the 4 corners. They'll hold the gasket in place, and make it easy to perfectly 'stick' the lower the first time. Same trick works on the upper.
3) If they're more than 2 or 3 years old, replace all coolant hoses/clamps and vacuum hoses. It's much easier to simply cut the old ones off. And you can be certain that all your vacuum connections are solid removing that as a variable for running down vacuum leaks.
4) Be sure to drain the cooling system low enough to avoid getting any coolant in the lifter valley.
1) There is a very specific and counterintuitive torquing pattern for the lower - follow it. No more than 18-20 ft-lbs. on the lower; 10 ft-lbs on the upper. USE A TORQUE WRENCH to avoid OVER-TIGHTENING.
2) Go to the hardware store and buy 4 bolts that are the same as the lower manifold bolts. Cut the heads off and slot the remaining stud. When you go to mount the lower, put them in the 4 corners. They'll hold the gasket in place, and make it easy to perfectly 'stick' the lower the first time. Same trick works on the upper.
3) If they're more than 2 or 3 years old, replace all coolant hoses/clamps and vacuum hoses. It's much easier to simply cut the old ones off. And you can be certain that all your vacuum connections are solid removing that as a variable for running down vacuum leaks.
4) Be sure to drain the cooling system low enough to avoid getting any coolant in the lifter valley.
ARed1995GT
New Member
hehe sounds good, yeah I have someone that used to own 5.0s back when they first came out (he owned 5 of them) and he is going to give me a hand. He has done this before but still anything that you guys could help me with wont hurt at all 
Along the lines of what Mike mentioned....1/4"/20 x 2" to 3" Allen studs work great to...they can be had right in the bolt section also...
Grab some good thread sealer for you plumbing connections....
Someone mentioned O-Rings...This is a good Napa number and cost like 3-4 per kit...
Grab some good thread sealer for you plumbing connections....
Someone mentioned O-Rings...This is a good Napa number and cost like 3-4 per kit...
Skoobie
Damn...Tyler65's hot!
Good advice on the intake but people are forgetting the TB. Dont just slap it on, be sure to check the TPS voltage (car off, ignition on) and get it as close to .99V as possible without going over. Reset your idle screw, clean your IAC, new gaskets, and possibly new studs (they tend to rust badly and need replacing). Good luck 
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Check the TPS voltage - between the black and green wires - but as long as it's anywhere between about .80V and 1.1V just leave it alone. The computer re-establishes a baseline each time the throttle is closed - so re-setting it to .99V doesn't accomplish anything at all.
Soupy
New Member
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
I stuff rags in each intake port; paper towels in the water jacket ports, and lay an old towel across the lifter valley before I start cleaning gasket material. And a shop vac to pick up all the little bits and pieces before/while removing the rags/towels.
Soupy
New Member
Oh, and get a can of brake cleaner to remove all of the oily residue off of the mating surfaces.
