New throttle body tune required

So I purchased this throttle body.
50253?$s7product$.jpg
Ford Performance Twin 62mm Throttle Body (05-10 GT)
Do you have any suggestions for tune brand or type? I don’t want to spend a ton of money this early in the game. I want to get her back on the road ASAP!
 
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So I purchased this throttle body.
50253?$s7product$.jpg
Ford Performance Twin 62mm Throttle Body (05-10 GT)
Do you have any suggestions for tune brand or type? I don’t want to spend a ton of money this early in the game. I want to get her back on the road ASAP!
Hi,
I don’t recommend this with any other engine bolt on, but unless there’s a document saying TUNE REQUIRED to use, you can bolt this up & run it as is until you get a tune, since you’ve already a have a preset TPS, it’s not that drastic of a change (55mm2 vs 62mm2) that the motor won’t adapt, a tune is not required, BUT- if it says it does t ha t it REQUIRES A TUNE somewhere- there’s a reason.
Mine is identical, F.P. 62mm, program recommended for best output, but not a NEED. Plug & play.
Potentially changed something, if it REQUIRES a Tune to run. I tune & have never run into that with these size TB’s, Ford, Accufab, BBK, I’ve used most in people’s S-197’s.
Can you PM me a shot of the spec’s? Or it’s P/N? I’m curious. If it SAYS to wait & get a tune, follow their advice, entirely. Only be 2-3 days if you buy tonight.
If they instruct something- there’s a reason for it. Not worth any chance- right?
Tune, best value, as they Dynoed most bolt ons for the S197’s, I’d suggest a BAMA tune for it with an SCT REV-X Tuner, free tunes for life-for every mod you buy, they comes through your WIFI network once completed within 48hrs I believe-, as long as you own the car. Really a deal that can’t be beat.
I own their Software, sell these. Create tunes for others, that $$ figure is a great deal! I charge 70-120$ for a DYNO based tune, my HPT, over 200$ per Tune. (DYNO based= I’d Dynoed a car similar to it & they get the closest thing.
Go to American Muscle, they also sell a cool air intake & tuner with Tunes for life (that’s free, btw) for reduced cost. Worth it if youre going to do it, later anyways, you’ll never get a better deal on a good CAI, if you’re in a tough emissions area, get a CARB compliant unit (like an Airaid MXP- be sure it is, if need be. It’ll have an exemption sticker with it) for no hassle inspections (they don’t require a time to run correctly, but gains will be much better with one).. Put 35HP on the table for you, and great throttle response, x3 vs Stock, better mileage as well.
If inspections aren’t so bad, go with the C&L racer, ones in my 08’ GT, and without many mods at first, it really woke it up & roared through the intake quite obnoxiously(both intakes did). Always get a tune for your parts when you get them with tunes for life, they’re FREE, I create my own, but do the same- my neighbors don’t much like my friends & customers Cars, nor mine, lol.
As it’s free for you, I suggest requesting a tune for most any other applicable engine part upgrade., e.g. you don’t need a tune if you change your COP’s, etc.
RevX tuner, tunes for life, Airaid MXP intake.
Link..You can get the same tuner& tunes for life for a little less without the CAI, but you’ll be glad you bought it..
.https://www.americanmuscle.com/airaid-race-cold-airtake-bama-revxtuner-0509-gt.html

Ok, good luck!
-John
 
I had recently replaced the stock throttle body on my Lightning with an Accufab item. At LightningRodder.com, there is a thread called Lightning Modding 101. It states that a tune is not necessary with a throttle body change. It may help, but is not necessary. I've had the Accufab on my Lightning for over a year with no tune. Runs freaking awesome. It was said that a throttle body change will likely only result in throttle response being better, since the original Lightning tb was a twin throat like the one you posted, and the new one is fully open oval. Yes, throttle response is excellent and much better than it was stock.

I've also, with no tune, been running a Magnum Powers blower in place of the stock Eaton. A Johnny Lightning Performance plenum, C & L elbow in place of the stupid crinkled rubber part, and a huge K & N powerstack filter on a Lightning Force Performance adaptor. And the two rear cats are deleted, the two forwards being replaced with Magnaflow high flow cats. And the lower crank pulley replaced with a larger one that makes ten pounds of boost, stock is eight. Not one single problem. Runs frikkin awesome. Plugs look perfectly normal, no sign of lean, detonation or pinging. I do run 93 octane in it and nothing else.

Another one you might be amazed I'm just mentioning, is throttle bodies and plenums, as these are a lot of owners first modifications. The stock throttle body isn't all that restrictive in an Eaton M112 setup. The gains most people claim to feel by installing one on an Eaton, come from increased throttle response, not from power gain. Good aftermarket throttle bodies are made by Accufab, LFP, and Magnum Powers. You can also port your stock plenum, or add an aftermarket C&L or JLP sheetmetal plenum if you like. You won't see huge gains on a Eaton with these modifications, but you will see some. Tuning after these modifications is not required, but can help with drivability if you have problems.

On a Lightning, installing a CAI, metal elbow, better tb and larger volume plenum on top of the blower result in the one thing I really wanted. Man, they make the blower noise LOUD! Real LOUD! I was after that more than anything else.
 
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Hi,
I don’t recommend this with any other engine bolt on, but unless there’s a document saying TUNE REQUIRED to use, you can bolt this up & run it as is until you get a tune, since you’ve already a have a preset TPS, it’s not that drastic of a change (55mm2 vs 62mm2) that the motor won’t adapt, a tune is not required, BUT- if it says it does t ha t it REQUIRES A TUNE somewhere- there’s a reason.
Mine is identical, F.P. 62mm, program recommended for best output, but not a NEED. Plug & play.
Potentially changed something, if it REQUIRES a Tune to run. I tune & have never run into that with these size TB’s, Ford, Accufab, BBK, I’ve used most in people’s S-197’s.
Can you PM me a shot of the spec’s? Or it’s P/N? I’m curious. If it SAYS to wait & get a tune, follow their advice, entirely. Only be 2-3 days if you buy tonight.
If they instruct something- there’s a reason for it. Not worth any chance- right?
Tune, best value, as they Dynoed most bolt ons for the S197’s, I’d suggest a BAMA tune for it with an SCT REV-X Tuner, free tunes for life-for every mod you buy, they comes through your WIFI network once completed within 48hrs I believe-, as long as you own the car. Really a deal that can’t be beat.
I own their Software, sell these. Create tunes for others, that $$ figure is a great deal! I charge 70-120$ for a DYNO based tune, my HPT, over 200$ per Tune. (DYNO based= I’d Dynoed a car similar to it & they get the closest thing.
Go to American Muscle, they also sell a cool air intake & tuner with Tunes for life (that’s free, btw) for reduced cost. Worth it if youre going to do it, later anyways, you’ll never get a better deal on a good CAI, if you’re in a tough emissions area, get a CARB compliant unit (like an Airaid MXP- be sure it is, if need be. It’ll have an exemption sticker with it) for no hassle inspections (they don’t require a time to run correctly, but gains will be much better with one).. Put 35HP on the table for you, and great throttle response, x3 vs Stock, better mileage as well.
If inspections aren’t so bad, go with the C&L racer, ones in my 08’ GT, and without many mods at first, it really woke it up & roared through the intake quite obnoxiously(both intakes did). Always get a tune for your parts when you get them with tunes for life, they’re FREE, I create my own, but do the same- my neighbors don’t much like my friends & customers Cars, nor mine, lol.
As it’s free for you, I suggest requesting a tune for most any other applicable engine part upgrade., e.g. you don’t need a tune if you change your COP’s, etc.
RevX tuner, tunes for life, Airaid MXP intake.
Link..You can get the same tuner& tunes for life for a little less without the CAI, but you’ll be glad you bought it..
Good luck!!
-John
 
So I got rid of the misfire, but then my alternator died on me. It still has a hesitation...I think installing new cam phaser will get rid of the hesitation...since the guy I bought it from told me he was racing it before it stopped working on him. Not sure what his definition of racing is though.
 
So I got rid of the misfire, but then my alternator died on me. It still has a hesitation...I think installing new cam phaser will get rid of the hesitation...since the guy I bought it from told me he was racing it before it stopped working on him. Not sure what his definition of racing is though.
Hi, Ok, good- no more misfire. Was it a COP?
Anyways, a bad alternator diode May cause oddball idle & drivability, hesitation issues, run into it before. The timing chain adjusters leak oil, if worn, & can cause phasers not to work properly by running less oil pressure. Might not be a bad idea to check out the oil pressure hot with a mechanical gauge. I run one on every motor I care about, they never lie.
Replacing the tensioners are worth it, if you’re going in anyway. The actuators themselves aren’t always the issue. Livernois sells can phaser lockouts, which are pretty useful. Hell, something as simple as a good blast of CRC MAF cleaner on your MAF might just clear that hesitation up.
Guess I’m just reminding to not overlook the basics. Think ‘racing’ is the universal term for “I was beating on it”, lol.
You’re getting a code indicating the phaser isn’t functioning?
I’d swap out that Alternator first, just to be certain. Accufab TB is what I’m running on my GT500, I think they are of better quality, and cost less than FP. Glad to hear the build is good & you’re happy with it.
Lightning’s are fun. Like a Terminator Cobra with bolt ons (but lighter).
I’m running a 2.5” upper OD pulley on my 08’GT500‘S (2011 Alum block 5.8, build started. they ran out of $$(Billet Crank, Blower. Heads, Block- 8,500$(!)Titanium I/B’s, extrude honed & benched intake/ports, Inconel Valves, internally opened up bores, stroker Crank + 0.030 (6.4l now).Running a Kenne Bell Mammoth. Unstrouded the Valves by radiusing upper. Glad bores. 9.5K$ on suspension mods a year ago, and it sits. Stiffened up the chassis, moly tubes.
Cars just spun 18K & I swore to myself I’d leave it alone....that didn’t bode so well. Flowbench Ported heads, had a tiny vibration at 1100rpm’s, so I’d rebalanced the Crank@ zero bal, (4k$ Billet F/Pl was 12 grams heavy on cyl #5’s Crank counterbalancer(?!).
Just added a McLeod 1,200Ft/LB TD clutch a week Ago, Kooks LT’s., 3” Pype bomb exh..Right idea, wrong car, lol. OE motor is crated, all Oe parts preserved
Haven’t yet hit the track, only streets.
Ok, pls post what ends up happening.
Best!
John
Pics, PM