New (to me O0 vert) lot's of ??????

cavepony

New Member
Apr 10, 2005
49
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0
Jupiter
Hey everyone,

My first post though I have lurked a lot the last two weeks, so I have lot's of questions.

First I would like to congratulate the members and the mods on a very informative and clean board.

I just picked up an 00 GT vert 40k miles, 5 speed with ( I guess) the GT extra package ( 17" wheels, black hood stripes). Silver w/ black leather.

First are the wheels/tires and stripes the only difference in the package?

It appears to be completley stock. I have looked underneath and it has subframe supports installed, but they look like stock bolted ones. So my first mod will be a good subframe connector, I am leaning towards the Steeda full length with the x braces and probably a strut tower brace if it won't interfere with future mods. Does anyone have any experience with these on a rag top?

Next I need a local shop where I can get them installed. I live in Jupiter, FL, just north of West Palm. Does anyone know of a good shop in the area? The closer the better.


I am also looking to rebuild the t-45 as I am getting the first hints of synchro death. 2nd gear will grind every once in a while on a downshift. I have also noticed that rpm's are very slow to drop when I let off the gas and slip in the clutch. Has anyone had this issue?

I would also like an opinion on the Steeda cat back's. I want some growl but I can't tolerate a 500 - 1000 mile trip on a loud exhaust.
This won't be a track car as I will be running it on the turnpike 5-10K a year, though I would like to run it at Moroso occasionaly to get some times and a rush. :)

Future plans are a KB 1.7 if I can sell an organ or two!! How much can the T45 handle?

I hope to bolt on a Tri-ax shifer and Bullit gas cap this week, just to get something on it.

Any other info would be greatly appreciated also.

Cavepony
 
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Welcome!

Your plan sounds good except I would not worry about the stock subframe connectors. Replace those last, you already have some and improvements with after markets will be marginal and not noticeable IMHO. Not worth the money...

BTW, a lot of people get caught up in mods. Do not forget about preventitive maintenance...

If I had a new Stang I would:
Change tranny fluid, engine oil, diff fluid, spark plugs, brake fluid, PCV, air filter, fuel filter, coolant flush and fill immediately.

Then I would set air pressure in tires perfectly and detail the CRAP out of it.

Then I would think about installing new speakers.

THEN I would think about mods.
 
cavepony said:
Hey everyone,

First are the wheels/tires and stripes the only difference in the package?

basically.

cavepony said:
It appears to be completley stock. I have looked underneath and it has subframe supports installed, but they look like stock bolted ones. So my first mod will be a good subframe connector, I am leaning towards the Steeda full length with the x braces and probably a strut tower brace if it won't interfere with future mods. Does anyone have any experience with these on a rag top?

i have the Steeda sub frames without the X braces. it made a big difference in body stiffness. a must for verts imo.

cavepony said:
I would also like an opinion on the Steeda cat back's. I want some growl but I can't tolerate a 500 - 1000 mile trip on a loud exhaust.
This won't be a track car as I will be running it on the turnpike 5-10K a year, though I would like to run it at Moroso occasionaly to get some times and a rush. :)

the Steeda cat back is made by Borla. it's a quality piece, but overpriced in my opinion. i got a Magnaflow for almost have the price and it's of the same quality. both thet Magnaflow and Borla are fairly quiet at lower RPM but wake up at full throttle.
 
I have an 00 black Gt Vert, I highly suggest going with a Cold Air Intake first, also, you will want to get some new exhaust, I recomend Bassani X pipe, and 40 series 2 chamber flows, Also, get a new shifter, I have the steeda Tri ax, which,I also like very much, there are several other brands, do those basic mods first, get some springs, and then worry about everything else like subframe connectors... ect

My Car
 
Kilgore Trout said:
Welcome!

Your plan sounds good except I would not worry about the stock subframe connectors. Replace those last, you already have some and improvements with after markets will be marginal and not noticeable IMHO. Not worth the money...

BTW, a lot of people get caught up in mods. Do not forget about preventitive maintenance...

If I had a new Stang I would:
Change tranny fluid, engine oil, diff fluid, spark plugs, brake fluid, PCV, air filter, fuel filter, coolant flush and fill immediately.

Then I would set air pressure in tires perfectly and detail the CRAP out of it.

Then I would think about installing new speakers.

THEN I would think about mods.

Thanks,

The engine oil is fresh and it will be up on stands this week to do the tranny and other stuff. I can't find any redline around here, so it will be Mobil 1. It is pretty much mint from a detailing perspective. I had not thought about the coolant and plugs. Do you recommend the original plugs for an N/A or something like the Iridium? It has the Mach 460, what do you suggest for speakers?
 
DBMSTNG said:
i have the Steeda sub frames without the X braces. it made a big difference in body stiffness. a must for verts imo.

.


Yeah, the cowl shake is more then I like with the stock so I need to do something. Do you have any experience with the strut tower braces?
 
cavepony said:
Do you recommend the original plugs for an N/A or something like the Iridium? It has the Mach 460, what do you suggest for speakers?

I recommend the stock plugs which are Motorcraft AWSF-32C. I cannot give you advice on the Mach speaker selection as I have no experience with Mach. Mine does not have it :( Someone else will I am sure...

www.bullittarchive.com has great routine maintenance tips and information :)
 
some welded in subframes will work wonders, if you are going to keep the car for a long time, i would also think about a nice 4 point roll bar or 6 point with removable swingouts. This would definately make the car stiff and safe.

As far as bolt on mods go, I would spend your money right the first time. cold air kits are useless at best unless you want looks.

Gears are the single funnest mod you can do

if you are going to do exhaust work, do it once. Buy hooker longtubes(ease of maintanence, quality) xpipe and whatever catback you desire. If you are wanting something that will be pretty quiet at hwy speeds, the magnaflows or ultraflows are the best.

an sct tuner would also give great gains

other mods i would do after those have been done are pullies, plenum and tb
 
Jackie Chan said:
some welded in subframes will work wonders, if you are going to keep the car for a long time, i would also think about a nice 4 point roll bar or 6 point with removable swingouts. This would definately make the car stiff and safe.

As far as bolt on mods go, I would spend your money right the first time. cold air kits are useless at best unless you want looks.

Gears are the single funnest mod you can do

if you are going to do exhaust work, do it once. Buy hooker longtubes(ease of maintanence, quality) xpipe and whatever catback you desire. If you are wanting something that will be pretty quiet at hwy speeds, the magnaflows or ultraflows are the best.

an sct tuner would also give great gains

other mods i would do after those have been done are pullies, plenum and tb

You already got some good advice and I thought I would chime in bc I went the route that you are planning to do (1.7L KB)

Start with the subframe connectors. It really makes a big difference.

Then you need to sit down and plan what your purpose with the car will be down the road. If you are serious about the KB then you need to plan accordingly.

Does your car still have the 4x4 look? Thats what I would adress first. Get some lowering springs with matching struts & Shocks. The Mach 1 kits are pretty popular as an upgrade for a GT.

I started my exhaust upgrade with the Borla catback. It is a quality piece and you will love the sound. It is quiet under normal driving and throaty under WOT. Do not go full exhaust just yet bc it is deafening on the highway.

I would not do gears if you plan on going with the KB, neither would I do a CAI, bc you want do upgrade this with the KB as well (KB big tube kit).

The SCT Xcalibrator or whatever it is called these days would be a good investment if you plan on going with the KB. KB uses the SCT chip so you can easily get a dyno tune and then make minor adjustments through the Xcalibrator.

New rims is a must with the KB. You need more rubber on the pavement so this would be a good time to increase your looks & go with bigger/wider rims n tires.

Oh, and before you go and get the KB, please go with forged internals. You will regret it otherwise... and consider the 2.2 instead of the 1.7. HP is soo addictive and 400 hp is cool for a couple of months and then a 03 snake will beat the crap out of you and you want to dial up the boost...

Good luck!
 
Jackie Chan said:
some welded in subframes will work wonders, if you are going to keep the car for a long time, i would also think about a nice 4 point roll bar or 6 point with removable swingouts. This would definately make the car stiff and safe.

As far as bolt on mods go, I would spend your money right the first time. cold air kits are useless at best unless you want looks.

Gears are the single funnest mod you can do

if you are going to do exhaust work, do it once. Buy hooker longtubes(ease of maintanence, quality) xpipe and whatever catback you desire. If you are wanting something that will be pretty quiet at hwy speeds, the magnaflows or ultraflows are the best.

an sct tuner would also give great gains

other mods i would do after those have been done are pullies, plenum and tb


Having a vert (and 2nd 5spd GT), I will agree with this.

Gears are the funniest mod. Requires a tune or hand held programmer (adjust timing at same time and turn off mils if off road pipe).

Do the exhaust once, I am pulling off my Bassani catted x-pipe for long tubes in a couple of months. Considering you will change the clutch later, get either Hooker or Bassani (mid-lengths) that allow for a easy clutch change.

Get a shifter (any shifter).

Don't waste the $100 on a CAI.

Subframes are a must.
 
I think a lot of the people on this thread failed to notice he ALREADY HAS subframes. He is talking about upgrading them which in my opinion should have a very low priority...
 
cavepony said:
I am also looking to rebuild the t-45 as I am getting the first hints of synchro death. 2nd gear will grind every once in a while on a downshift. I have also noticed that rpm's are very slow to drop when I let off the gas and slip in the clutch. Has anyone had this issue?

does this grind happen on hard upshifts too?? you may have the clutch adjusted wrong.. too loose of a clutch adjustment will cause grinding when going into gear... and also you will notice when idling you will have a hard time getting the car into gear sometimes..

reverse on a T-45 will be hard to engage on some cars even with proper adjustment there is a TSB for shift fork replacement.. .this only affects reverse... my car does it.. some day when i get around to it i will fix that.. but clutch adjustment fixed all the other trans problems for me...
 
Kilgore Trout said:
I think a lot of the people on this thread failed to notice he ALREADY HAS subframes. He is talking about upgrading them which in my opinion should have a very low priority...

I think the subs he was referring to was the stock subframes (POS).
 
Welcome to the forums. And congrats on the mustang buy. If you want some easy bolt'ons you could do at home and will give you power I suggest a good throttle body ( tb ) and a plenum. 70mm for both. Take maybe 1 hr and will give you a great punch after 3k rpms. I have yet to do this but its on one of my next to do list. But nothing will go with the vert better than a good catback exhaust system. I suggest Flowmaster American Thunder ( also known as 2 chambers ) Great sound ! Subframes will help but I personally wouldnt do it as part of my 1st mods. But if I had to do my 1st mods over again I would get 4.10 gears. Run you about $130 for the part and about $175-$250 for labor and install. But once you get the gears you gotta install a speedcal. If you dont use one it will put un-nessary miles on your car and throw off your MPH. Anyways good luck on your car hope you have many many fun times in it :nice: