new to nitrous just need some input
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Red35th
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I've got 100k miles and no problems. If I had that many miles though, personally, I wouldn't go higher than a 75 shot. Also, with a 75 shot you don't have to bump down timing (if you can, might go down one degree anyway).
Just make sure you run 2 steps colder copper plugs and that you stay away from the rev limiter.
Just make sure you run 2 steps colder copper plugs and that you stay away from the rev limiter.
i was gonna start with the 75 shot and see how it handles it i did get colder plugs already and im going to change my fuel filter its been a really good car so i think it will handle it and the kit came with a wide open throttle switch and i forgot what the other thing is called but it keeps it from hitting the rev limiter so i should be good i ran a 13.8 last time i was at the track what do u think it will run with a 75 shot i run drag radials to
They say 75 shot = ~75 hp. Every increase of 10 hp or loss of 100 lbs is roughly equal to .1 seconds at the 1/4.
If you drive the same, theory says with a 75 shot you should be low 13's for sure.
Does your bottle have a gauge mounted on it? I have seen people sit their tank in hot/warm water to help before loading it in the car. I need to get a heater for my bottle as it does chill later on in the night after a few hits at the track
Tim2002GT
Founding Member
I don't recommend using a torch. It does work, but you could also be seriously injured if you screw up.
Just put the bottle in the floorboard of your car, or a friends car, and turn the heater on high. It won't take very long to heat the bottle like that.
I wrap my bottle in a fleece jacket to help it maintain its temperature longer.
Just put the bottle in the floorboard of your car, or a friends car, and turn the heater on high. It won't take very long to heat the bottle like that.
I wrap my bottle in a fleece jacket to help it maintain its temperature longer.
Tim2002GT
Founding Member
I wouldn't activate the nitrous until you get up to ~3k rpms. Without the air velocity through the intake, the fuel could puddle in the intake manifold and you could have a backfire.
Red35th
Member
Another cheap option is an electric blanket and power inverter if you have one. It looks pretty ridiculous, but works.
Flipping the switch in first is no problem. I know most people say don't spray under 3k, but in first I hit it at 2500rpms, right after I gain full traction.
Flipping the switch in first is no problem. I know most people say don't spray under 3k, but in first I hit it at 2500rpms, right after I gain full traction.
BurningRubber
10 Year Member
- Dec 6, 2004
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Here's my take: I put nitrous on my car with 143k on it. I started on the 75 shot and removed 10% timing (which MAY have been a degree, or 1.5 degrees) and also added fuel with my Diablosport.
The car has yet to miss a beat with it. I put in 1 step colder COPPER Autolite plugs. I STRONGLY recommend only using copper plugs. I can't remember if it's iridium or platinum, but one has a negative chemical reaction with the nitrous and it can get ugly, fast.
The biggest indicator you can have as to whether your engine is going to take it or not, is to do a compression test and to make sure your fuel pressure is where it should be. Also, read your plugs how they are now. If they are good, that's a sign your engine is running properly. If you pull bad plugs out (indicating a problem), you are asking for failure if you don't fix whatever is wrong first.
If you have good compression and your getting fuel to the engine, a 75 shot is pretty damn safe.
Aside from that, a wide open throttle switch is the very least you can do in terms of safety. You should also invest in a window switch (or you can flip the arming switch on at WOT when you are ready to spray, and risk missing a shift and hitting the rev limiter).
A purge kit is nice, but I have not used one so far and it's not my top priority to get one.
I can't spray in first on street tires. It will just spin. On a set of BFG drag radials, it still spins a bit but it will hook enough that I can still spray in 1st. This is partly because of my suspension and gears, though. I can spray in second on street tires, but depending on the road surface and temperature it will sometimes spin as well.
Like Tim said, don't risk it below 3k. The lowest I have sprayed was at 2800RPM and it was fine, but that's not far below 3k.
As far as a bottle heater, if it gets hot where you live the bottle will heat itself on a warm day by sitting in the car. Mine so far hits between 900-950psi on a mid-upper 70's through low 80* day, and in the summer I'll be worrying about it over-pressurizing.
In the fall/winter, a heater is an absolute necessity to achieve proper bottle pressure.
I mounted my bottle in the trunk, at an angle right behind the drivers side rear seat. I can reach it going down the road and turn around and see the PSI gauge. Keeping it at a rearward angle allows gravity to feed the nitrous into the pickup tube in the bottle as well, although mounting the bottle straight facing the front of the car will give the "best" results.
I ran the feed line through the interior, under the carpet, out the kick-panel area on the drivers side, through the fender, and into the engine bay. The bottle is ALWAYS off when I am not using it, so if there is ever a leak in the feed line, it won't be there when the bottle is off. And the line is under so much pressure when the nitrous is on, there's a decent chance you'll hear a leak if one develops. If you want to be the safest, run it under the car. I didn't do that because I'm worried about snagging it on something going down the road.
You'll have fun with it, definitely.
The car has yet to miss a beat with it. I put in 1 step colder COPPER Autolite plugs. I STRONGLY recommend only using copper plugs. I can't remember if it's iridium or platinum, but one has a negative chemical reaction with the nitrous and it can get ugly, fast.
The biggest indicator you can have as to whether your engine is going to take it or not, is to do a compression test and to make sure your fuel pressure is where it should be. Also, read your plugs how they are now. If they are good, that's a sign your engine is running properly. If you pull bad plugs out (indicating a problem), you are asking for failure if you don't fix whatever is wrong first.
If you have good compression and your getting fuel to the engine, a 75 shot is pretty damn safe.
Aside from that, a wide open throttle switch is the very least you can do in terms of safety. You should also invest in a window switch (or you can flip the arming switch on at WOT when you are ready to spray, and risk missing a shift and hitting the rev limiter).
A purge kit is nice, but I have not used one so far and it's not my top priority to get one.
I can't spray in first on street tires. It will just spin. On a set of BFG drag radials, it still spins a bit but it will hook enough that I can still spray in 1st. This is partly because of my suspension and gears, though. I can spray in second on street tires, but depending on the road surface and temperature it will sometimes spin as well.
Like Tim said, don't risk it below 3k. The lowest I have sprayed was at 2800RPM and it was fine, but that's not far below 3k.
As far as a bottle heater, if it gets hot where you live the bottle will heat itself on a warm day by sitting in the car. Mine so far hits between 900-950psi on a mid-upper 70's through low 80* day, and in the summer I'll be worrying about it over-pressurizing.
In the fall/winter, a heater is an absolute necessity to achieve proper bottle pressure.
I mounted my bottle in the trunk, at an angle right behind the drivers side rear seat. I can reach it going down the road and turn around and see the PSI gauge. Keeping it at a rearward angle allows gravity to feed the nitrous into the pickup tube in the bottle as well, although mounting the bottle straight facing the front of the car will give the "best" results.
I ran the feed line through the interior, under the carpet, out the kick-panel area on the drivers side, through the fender, and into the engine bay. The bottle is ALWAYS off when I am not using it, so if there is ever a leak in the feed line, it won't be there when the bottle is off. And the line is under so much pressure when the nitrous is on, there's a decent chance you'll hear a leak if one develops. If you want to be the safest, run it under the car. I didn't do that because I'm worried about snagging it on something going down the road.
You'll have fun with it, definitely.
BurningRubber
10 Year Member
- Dec 6, 2004
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I did this, it did not work. I think if I had a better heating pad (mine sucked), it would work. IF you can get it to work, you can have a bottle heater for CHEAP. And yeah, I caught HELL for it but I was trying to be innovative.
BurningRubber
10 Year Member
- Dec 6, 2004
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I don't believe so. As long as your pressure as adequate you should be fine. If it's not, chances are you have a more serious problem that needs to be addressed before using the nitrous.
BurningRubber
10 Year Member
- Dec 6, 2004
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Someone find me a CHEAP power invertor/warmer
I paid $20 for a single-outlet inverter that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket from Wal-Mart, and you can definitely get a heating pad for $20 or less. Total investment can be under $40...
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