Hey guys! I'm new here and plan on posting and reading through here a lot but I've been a bit confused on a few things and have had a hard time figuring out what's what.
I've recently purchased a 1985 Mustang v6 Convertible, but I've had a hard time telling if it's the GT or LX trim? What are the key determining factors for this? When I look up my VIN it says Series: GT,Turbo GT (well I def don't have a turbo). Also what's SN95 and Fox? I've never messed with Mustangs before but I couldn't pass this deal up.
A little about the mustang I found;
I picked it up for $950 from some dude who bought it for $1500, did nothing with it and sold it to me a few months later lol.
When I test drove it, the front left caliper was seized but aside from that, it drove decent. Major vacuum leak when pushing on the brake and a very rough idle. Well, needless to say, because of the seized caliper and the trashed convertible top and the bad vacuum leak, I talked the guy down to $950 and I bought it the next day and towed it to my house. Though shockingly enough, the tow was all it needed to jingle that caliper functional again for whatever reason hahaha.
Over the past month I've been working on it and well, the first thing I replaced was the brake booster and master brake cylinder. After doing that it resolved a huge chunk of issues due to a severe vacuum leak, but it made everything else wrong with it start rearing it's naked ugly head. Thankfully for me though, it wasn't anything too bad or too hard to diagnose. Just a really bad idle for the most part, stalling shortly after cranked, stalling at a stop, stalling if tossed into reverse or drive. As long as you gave it gas though for the most part it was fine. Throttle response was laggy as well and sometimes it just, refused to accelerate any faster.
I ended up buying a OBD1 code reader before continuing with anything and it was spitting out if I remember, code 32. And we all know how these OBD1 code readers are. Just generic area where the issue is. It was telling me the EVP was under the minimum voltage. Well, I moved over to the EGR valve and checked the voltage, it was reading 5v on the dot and from my research, that seemed to be proper. Though sources varied. So instead of replacing the connector I went straight for the EGR valve. That thing was GLUED shut from carbon buildup. I tried cleaning it up and reinstalling it, but unfortunately it just needed to be replaced. Bought a brand new one and tossed it in. Boom, resolved another massive chunk of issues.
Now all that's left is bad loose steering and it still stalls shortly after crank for some reason, it's very weird and I'm not quite sure what the issue is. It'll crank up just fine for the most part, but it'll idle at 500 rpm, start to slowly fall, the computer will try to correct bringing it up to 700rpm, then it'll fall to 400rpm, computer will correct again to 700rpm, then it'll fall to 300rpm, etc etc until it inevitable stalls. Oddly enough, if you give it a rev to 3k rpm and then let it go. It no longer has the idle issue until you shut her off and crank her again.
What I've opted to do is I'm going ahead and replacing the fuel filter? Maybe it's clogged up. Not sure, and my fuel pump is sending proper pressure so I'm not going to replace that yet. I've also gone ahead and replaced my belt, the old one was on RIDICULOUSLY tight. After I swapped the belt that seemed to have fixed a few of my crank issues too as sometimes I'd have a hard time cranking probably due to the stress on the bearings? Not entirely sure, however she oddly enough seems to run a bit better after the new belt getting installed too. Which I never thought I'd see a performance and healthier run just from swapping the belt.
Here soon I'm getting that fuel filter replaced and I'm replacing the inner and outer tie rods as they seem shot and the main cause for my loose steering issues.
Though if replacing my fuel filter doesn't resolve this weird idle issue on crank, any ideas on what it could be? I'm not getting any codes and it doesn't sound like the engine is miss firing or anything. If it was clogged fuel injectors a quick little rev wouldn't resolve that issue right? Also I did run a can of seafoam through the car to help clean things up as well as a fuel additive.
I've recently purchased a 1985 Mustang v6 Convertible, but I've had a hard time telling if it's the GT or LX trim? What are the key determining factors for this? When I look up my VIN it says Series: GT,Turbo GT (well I def don't have a turbo). Also what's SN95 and Fox? I've never messed with Mustangs before but I couldn't pass this deal up.
A little about the mustang I found;
I picked it up for $950 from some dude who bought it for $1500, did nothing with it and sold it to me a few months later lol.
When I test drove it, the front left caliper was seized but aside from that, it drove decent. Major vacuum leak when pushing on the brake and a very rough idle. Well, needless to say, because of the seized caliper and the trashed convertible top and the bad vacuum leak, I talked the guy down to $950 and I bought it the next day and towed it to my house. Though shockingly enough, the tow was all it needed to jingle that caliper functional again for whatever reason hahaha.
Over the past month I've been working on it and well, the first thing I replaced was the brake booster and master brake cylinder. After doing that it resolved a huge chunk of issues due to a severe vacuum leak, but it made everything else wrong with it start rearing it's naked ugly head. Thankfully for me though, it wasn't anything too bad or too hard to diagnose. Just a really bad idle for the most part, stalling shortly after cranked, stalling at a stop, stalling if tossed into reverse or drive. As long as you gave it gas though for the most part it was fine. Throttle response was laggy as well and sometimes it just, refused to accelerate any faster.
I ended up buying a OBD1 code reader before continuing with anything and it was spitting out if I remember, code 32. And we all know how these OBD1 code readers are. Just generic area where the issue is. It was telling me the EVP was under the minimum voltage. Well, I moved over to the EGR valve and checked the voltage, it was reading 5v on the dot and from my research, that seemed to be proper. Though sources varied. So instead of replacing the connector I went straight for the EGR valve. That thing was GLUED shut from carbon buildup. I tried cleaning it up and reinstalling it, but unfortunately it just needed to be replaced. Bought a brand new one and tossed it in. Boom, resolved another massive chunk of issues.
Now all that's left is bad loose steering and it still stalls shortly after crank for some reason, it's very weird and I'm not quite sure what the issue is. It'll crank up just fine for the most part, but it'll idle at 500 rpm, start to slowly fall, the computer will try to correct bringing it up to 700rpm, then it'll fall to 400rpm, computer will correct again to 700rpm, then it'll fall to 300rpm, etc etc until it inevitable stalls. Oddly enough, if you give it a rev to 3k rpm and then let it go. It no longer has the idle issue until you shut her off and crank her again.
What I've opted to do is I'm going ahead and replacing the fuel filter? Maybe it's clogged up. Not sure, and my fuel pump is sending proper pressure so I'm not going to replace that yet. I've also gone ahead and replaced my belt, the old one was on RIDICULOUSLY tight. After I swapped the belt that seemed to have fixed a few of my crank issues too as sometimes I'd have a hard time cranking probably due to the stress on the bearings? Not entirely sure, however she oddly enough seems to run a bit better after the new belt getting installed too. Which I never thought I'd see a performance and healthier run just from swapping the belt.
Here soon I'm getting that fuel filter replaced and I'm replacing the inner and outer tie rods as they seem shot and the main cause for my loose steering issues.
Though if replacing my fuel filter doesn't resolve this weird idle issue on crank, any ideas on what it could be? I'm not getting any codes and it doesn't sound like the engine is miss firing or anything. If it was clogged fuel injectors a quick little rev wouldn't resolve that issue right? Also I did run a can of seafoam through the car to help clean things up as well as a fuel additive.