Newbie Help Pls

FearTheTube · Feb 7, 2006

ok so this is my first mustang, and the first car that i've worked on. the car was bone dry when i got it, and it needed a new battery. the carbeurator looked old and rusted, but i figured it should be good to at least start. i put a gallon in it and replaced the battery. i went to fire it up and nothing happened. after some tinkering, i decided that the carbeurator was old and needed to be replaced. when i pulled out the carbeurator, i noticed that there was no fuel coming through the line. anyone got any tips on how to get fuel to the new carbeurator or anything else that i might have missed?

rbohm · Feb 7, 2006

first, replace the fuel pump as the diaphram is likely shot.
second, prime the carb with a little fuel.
third, install a fuel filter between the pump and the carb.
fourth, make sure you have spark to the plugs.

Tim65GT · Feb 7, 2006

You're gonna need more than a gallon of gas for the pickup in the tank to suck it out...that is if it's not already clogged with rust, varnished gas, dirt...

Check the fuel line where it comes out of the tank, it may be plugged...mine was.

limey66 · Feb 9, 2006

My vote goes for the perished diaphragm. If it has stood for any length of time, it goes brittle. Try priming the fuel line from the carb back to the pump - if the fuel pump is shot, fuel will most likely tiddle out onto the floor.

I got mine to start by priming the carb through the vent holes - I had to do this twice before the new pump had drawn fuel from the tank all along the line to the carb. A glass inline fuel filter (between the pump and carb) will let you see when fuel is coming through, and what colour it is.

FearTheTube · Feb 14, 2006

i'm starting to replace the fuel system now. i got a new fuel tank, new pump, new filter, tore appart my carb and cleaned it, and waiting on some fuel line. i have this gut feeling that the carb isn't going to work. i'm contemplating replacing it. any suggestions on what i should get for a 200 straight 6 automatic?

Capt Dan · Feb 14, 2006

Except for replacing the gaskets and diaphram, there is no reason why your carb shouldn't work enough to start it. Probably just needs cleaning.

When you replace the tank replace the sending unit. It is probably gunked up from the old fuel also. Then try and blow air thru the line to make sure it is open. Replace the pump. Then you should be getting fuel to the carb and you can work on it from there.

FearTheTube · Feb 14, 2006

ok my carb has different parts and numbers on it. the tag says motorcraft, but the floaters say holley, then it's got one i can't read. i'm just gonna get a new one. suggestions?

68converted · Feb 15, 2006

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Because you have not had a "clean" start phase, you have no idea whether it will run ok without purchasing a new carb. Let me give you an example of what has happened to virtually every single Mustang owner.

Replace one part, because it is the most obvious. Then replace everthing down the line until you find out that it was something that is related to problem A, but to fix it you now have to resolve problem B, which leads to C, and so on. Two years later you have a fully restored, "brand" new car that only needed a fuse in the first place.

My advise, resolve the smallest least likely issues first. You are on the right track replacing the Tank, pump, and line. These cars require a ton of "sit back and think it through" instead of "toss money" at thinking. With that said, when I picked up my car in Kansas, I could not get the darn thing to stay running. Bought a new 600 DP Edlebrock carb, put it in and made the 400 mile drive to Colorado. Turns out, it sucked so much gas from the new unadjusted carb that it just kept running on spite. The problem was a solenoid in the first place.

FearTheTube · Feb 15, 2006

well i know for sure that the engine and the carb are not the stock parts. it originally had a 289 in it with a different carb. i'm actually missing a part in the carb too. i just noticed that i am missing that pin looking thing that sits inside the fitting for the fuel line. i'm really just looking for advice on what type of carbs are good for a 200 straight 6 because i'm not sure if i want to keep the one that's in there now. i already know i'm going to have to replace a lot of the parts on the car because of rust and stuff. i'm just looking for input on good carbs right now. if anyone knows where i can get a 289 for pretty cheap, that would help a lot so i can restore it to the original state.

BDT 1967 · Feb 15, 2006

I would say about a holley 500 2v that may be too much.

TBP · Feb 15, 2006

FearTheTube said:
any suggestions on what i should get for a 200 straight 6 automatic?

A V8 .

Just kidding dude. Figured someone had to say it eventually.

FearTheTube · Feb 15, 2006

2v....is that a 2 barrel? the engine has a built in manifold, so i can't change the 1 barrel. i'm looking at sticking a 289 back in it because that's what it was manufactured with. know any place that i can get one fairly cheap?

68converted · Feb 15, 2006

I am sorry that I don't have info on the 6cyl and carbs. If your looking at a 289 you can find them pretty cheap. If your not too set on making things "original" you might look into a roller 302 aka 5.0 with a carb set up.

Rusty67 · Feb 15, 2006

Slow down there CTS, no sense in spending money on a carb if yer going to replace the motor anyways. If you are looking at puting a 289 in it then I'd sugest geting a motor out of an 86-95 Mustang with a 5.0. As stated earlier, its actually a 302 but the engine block is the same as the 289. Since the car was a V8 to begin with you wont have to worry about upgrading all the parts that you would normally change out in order to convert to a V8.

In the mean time, if you just want to get it running then you could provably get a carb out of a junkyard and slap that one to get it running. Then you could move the car around and drive it for a little while before you put it out of commision to swap stuff out and do a decent overhaul on it.

FearTheTube · Feb 16, 2006

ok, do you guys know where i can find any of those engines pretty cheap? i was looking for line an hour last night and the cheapest i saw was around $5,000. i cant afford that since i know i'm going to have to replace most of the paneling and body parts. there's a lot of rust and a lot of spots where it has eaten all the way through. like the floor pan in the cab, and the bottom of the trunk.

Rusty67 · Feb 16, 2006

Most of the time you can go to your local junkyard and find an 85-93 mustang with a V8 in it and either pull it yerself (cheaper) or have the junkyard pull it for you (less work). The only reason to pull it yourself besides the money is that you many not get everything you want if they pull it.

FearTheTube · Feb 19, 2006

ok so i've found a 302 off of a 83-86 mustang(the junkyard wasnt sure on the year). is there anything that i should know before i go buy it and attempt to drop it in?

Rusty67 · Feb 20, 2006

Yes, try and get one that is 85 or newer because its got a roller cam in it already and this makes more power then the earlier motors. I've got an 83 in my Mustang right now and its kind of the bastard child motor because the motor comes from an inbetween time period. An 86 would be fuel injected, I believe 85 was the first year of the roller cam and last year of the carb. If you get an EFI motor, its no big dea, just pull the EFI manifold off and put an edlebrock RPM air gap on it with a new carb.

RGS0907 · Feb 20, 2006

FearTheTube said:
ok so i've found a 302 off of a 83-86 mustang(the junkyard wasnt sure on the year). is there anything that i should know before i go buy it and attempt to drop it in?

Didn't you say that you have a lot of rust? I wouldn't be worrying about changing engines right now. Your first question was about carbs. I would just replace the 1BBL that's on there now with a new one & get the car drivable for a couple of hundred before spending thousands to swap a new engine into a car that needs frame/body work. You can also buy a rebuild kit for the carb for about $20.00. Go to NPD, Mustang's Unlimited, Glaziers Mustang Barn etc. to get a catelog, or visit/call www.ponycarburetors.com

FearTheTube · Feb 20, 2006

well like i said about the carb, it has a a motorcraft tag, a holley float, and another name inscribed on it that isnt either one but i cant really read. it's kinda weird because it has one circular diaphram with 3 tabs that come off of it for the screws. i cant find a rebuild kit for it. although i didnt know about glaziers mustang barn. as for the new engine, it originally had a 289 in it. now it has a 200 in it. i want it to be a v8, and i'm gonna put one in it eventually. now is as good a time as any. this 302 i found is only about $550 and it will give me a little more hands on with the car. other than that, all it looks like i have to do is replace some sheet metal, the dash, and the fuel system. nothing else looks like it's in that bad of a condition. i have to sand it so find out just how bad it really is and how much i need to replace. i'll try and get some pics of it up soon, so you guys can see what i'm talking about. i do like all the input and help you guys are giving me. please feel free to keep adding more, but when it comes down to it, i'm gonna do it the way i want it unless someone can show me a way i like better or i absolutely cant do it.

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