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Nice start needed, help!

  • Thread starter Thread starter ferga
  • Start date Start date Oct 5, 2004
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ferga

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Jun 5, 2004
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Oct 5, 2004
#1
  • Oct 5, 2004
  • #1
Hi.
The engine of my 91 LX 5.0 conv is kinda hard to start ( I mean, I saw the 90 GT of my brother and even on the coldest mornings it starts and runs at the first try) and run in the mornings, especially today (lots of rain in the night) I live in El Paso Texas, so we don`t have cold climate, we still in summer, the starter works ok but I need to make 2-3 tries to run the engine, it spins ok but it sems like if I had a carb on it without choke in a cold morning. It happens too if the weather is pretty warm (hot) but the car was parked all day.
It has new rotor, cap, wires, plugs, gas filter, clean injectors, air filter.
What should I check?
By the way, when I go abou 45 mph and smash the gas nothing happens, it happened twice at 5-10mph too.
I`m a little worried abou this because it`s my first 5.0
Thanks a lot for all your help.
 

jrichker

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Oct 5, 2004
#2
  • Oct 5, 2004
  • #2
Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Coil
B.) TFI module
C.) PIP sensor in distributor
D.) ECC relay next to computer
E.) Fuse links in wiring harness
F.) Ignition switch
G.) Computer

2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil

3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t ,then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.

Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In pinch you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have

No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe -& hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness.
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running.

4.) Spark & fuel OK.
A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off only likely if the engine has been worked on recently).
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order form the non HO engines.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
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Oct 5, 2004
#3
  • Oct 5, 2004
  • #3
JR's lists are so complete, it takes the fun out of this for the rest of us (that is a compliment, Joe ).

i would pay particular attention to your FP. a very simple test - cycle the ignition key on and off a few times before you crank it for the first time. this will build pressure if you have excessive bleed off or a weak pump (or bad FPR).

might try yanking codes too (JR has some nice links for doing that as well - a search of his posts will reveal his posts on this).

good luck.
 
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