Progress Thread Nicholase "lights out" build- TKX install
- Thread starter nicholase
- Start date
Clutch day
I already installed a Ford Performance billet steel flywheel. I wanted to get the flywheel bolt holes sealed up so I could test my oil pan and rear main for leaks. It's been dry as a bone for weeks and I've been priming the oil system and spinning the engine over by hand... so I think I'm good.
I'm using a McLeod RST twin disc. I wanted to keep the factory pedal feel but increase holding power. The extra surface area of the second disc allows lighter pressure plate springs.
It's actually really simple to install. Just a few more parts. An extra clutch disc and floater.
The dics are both marked top or bottom and both have "flywheel side " sharpie on the side that faces the flywheel.
Bottom first
The Jegs flywheel holder has come in super handy. I bought it years ago for a Coyote I was building. It seems to fit anything.
Then the floater and torque it
Then the top disc
And finally the pressure plate and torque it.
It comes completely shimmed and adjusted from the factory. So it's a bolt on affair. The most important part is keeping the index marks lined up when assembling. The blue stripe.
The transmission is back in and I checked the pedal feel. Feels just like stock. Maybe a little lighter actually.
I already installed a Ford Performance billet steel flywheel. I wanted to get the flywheel bolt holes sealed up so I could test my oil pan and rear main for leaks. It's been dry as a bone for weeks and I've been priming the oil system and spinning the engine over by hand... so I think I'm good.
I'm using a McLeod RST twin disc. I wanted to keep the factory pedal feel but increase holding power. The extra surface area of the second disc allows lighter pressure plate springs.
It's actually really simple to install. Just a few more parts. An extra clutch disc and floater.
The dics are both marked top or bottom and both have "flywheel side " sharpie on the side that faces the flywheel.
Bottom first
The Jegs flywheel holder has come in super handy. I bought it years ago for a Coyote I was building. It seems to fit anything.
Then the floater and torque it
Then the top disc
And finally the pressure plate and torque it.
It comes completely shimmed and adjusted from the factory. So it's a bolt on affair. The most important part is keeping the index marks lined up when assembling. The blue stripe.
The transmission is back in and I checked the pedal feel. Feels just like stock. Maybe a little lighter actually.
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Clutch day
I already installed a Ford Performance billet steel flywheel. I wanted to get the flywheel bolt holes sealed up so I could test my oil pan and rear main for leaks. It's been dry as a bone for weeks and I've been priming the oil system and spinning the engine over by hand... so I think I'm good.
I'm using a McLoed RST twin disc. I wanted to keep the factory pedal feel but increase holding power. The extra surface area of the second disc allows lighter pressure plate springs.
It's actually really simple to install. Just a few more parts. An extra clutch disc and floater.
The dics are both marked top or bottom and both have "flywheel side " sharpie on the side that faces the flywheel.
Bottom first
The Jegs flywheel holder has come in super handy. I bought it years ago for a Coyote I was building. It seems to fit anything.
Then the floater and torque it
Then the top disc
And finally the pressure plate and torque it.
It comes completely shimmed and adjusted from the factory. So it's a bolt on affair. The most important part is keeping the index marks lined up when assembling. The blue stripe.
The transmission is back in and I checked the pedal feel. Feels just like stock. Maybe a little lighter actually.
I have not installed one of these but it sure seems like they have improved their game since the first time I saw one of these installed.
It used to be that you needed 10 different dial gauges and a room of engineers (half of them in conference call with McCleod) in order to get one of these installed correctly.
I read stories like that. Before I ordered I downloaded the instructions and it didn't seem bad at all. So either they did up their game or those stories were universal kits that hadn't been designed for specific applications yet.
Ordered some driveline parts. I forgot my trans cross member x-pipe holder was shot. The rubber is all worn out. So I held off on going any farther with the trans mounting till they get here.
Shifted gears and got the accessory all put together. Belt still fits with the new A/C compressor so that cool. Also got my P/S all plumbed and filled. Doing some hand priming to get the bubbles out.
Hopefully my valve cover and power pipe is back from powder coating by this coming weekend.
Shifted gears and got the accessory all put together. Belt still fits with the new A/C compressor so that cool. Also got my P/S all plumbed and filled. Doing some hand priming to get the bubbles out.
Hopefully my valve cover and power pipe is back from powder coating by this coming weekend.
What is that clutch supposed to be able to hold hp wise? Assuming you are still using the clutch cable with it?
Yeah, I'm using the factory cable/ quadrant still. It's in good shape so I'll stick with it. The clutch's HP numbers are overkill for me. I was mostly looking to get enough holding power but a light pedal feel. I'll probable be somewhere around 425-450. I figured the lighter effort would help my cable last longer as well.
I went with the RST. It's good to 800hp. It has an organically lined clutch disc set. It's intended for high HP street cars and is supposed to have a smooth gradual engagement similar a factory type clutch.
The RXT is competition setup. It's the same pressure plate and floater but with ceramic lined clutch discs and good for 1000hp. From the reviews I've read it's grabby and has an on/off feel. But most of the reviews were older. So maybe it's improved.
Mine is just a street car, so I figured the RST would be plenty for it's use.
To give an ideal of how light the pedal feel is. I wanted to check the clutch release. So laying under the car with it in gear and one hand on the yoke I reached up into the car with my other hand to push the pedal down. I couldn't reach the pedal so I grabbed a hammer and pushed the pedal easily down with the hammer handle and spun the yoke with my other hand.
It feels lighter than the Ford Performance factory replacement that was in there. I think that was a little stronger than the factory setup by 10% or something like that.
I'm also thinking heavy clutches probably aren't good for our old firewalls. Seen some posts lately about cracks developing.
It feels lighter than the Ford Performance factory replacement that was in there. I think that was a little stronger than the factory setup by 10% or something like that.
I'm also thinking heavy clutches probably aren't good for our old firewalls. Seen some posts lately about cracks developing.
So.... I noticed my transmission was canted. I didn't need to put a level on it. It was considerable off. I checked the motor mounts and they were correctly installed. The nubs were properly in the k member. The mount studs sitting at the bottom of the slots. The mounts sitting flush on the k member. No idea what's up with that but the drivers side was about an inch lower than the passenger. It was almost touching my steering shaft. These were the "convertable" mounts from LMR.
I orderd the energy suspension mounts and installed them and all is well. It's tough to measure these things accurately because of how they are shaped. But the energy mounts appear to be a little shorter. Maybe a ¼".
I have enough clearance on my header / steering shaft
Otherside
I did check hood clearance with the Vortech and it is snug. But will work. I can only guess i got a bad set of "convertable" mounts, but after reading the reviews on them... i dont seem to be alone here.
With that behind me I moved to other stuff. I got a new starter. Way smaller and lighter. I think the 35 year old Motorcraft is due. The Ford Performamce mini starter requires a little wiring re work because it has the solenoid on it. Nothing difficult though, comes with everything needed.
Then I got the exhaust back together. The slenderizing I did on the upper control arms really helped. Lots of clearance even with the panhard bar. The only portion that isn't JetHot coated is the X pipe. I'm still not sure if I'm going to add a torque arm setup later on. I know my x pipe will need to be modded or replaced to fit a TA so I didn't want to waste money on coating that just yet.
Earlier I mentioned making a better way to tension the supercharger belt. The square cut outs for a ratchet to tension are difficult to access, especially with a thick radiator. The sharpie circle is where i want to add a wrenching location.
I was going to use a lugnut, but found this 3/4" stainless cap nut. So I plug welded a stud into the bracket from the backside.
Nut goes on the stud
Works awesome.
I orderd the energy suspension mounts and installed them and all is well. It's tough to measure these things accurately because of how they are shaped. But the energy mounts appear to be a little shorter. Maybe a ¼".
I have enough clearance on my header / steering shaft
Otherside
I did check hood clearance with the Vortech and it is snug. But will work. I can only guess i got a bad set of "convertable" mounts, but after reading the reviews on them... i dont seem to be alone here.
With that behind me I moved to other stuff. I got a new starter. Way smaller and lighter. I think the 35 year old Motorcraft is due. The Ford Performamce mini starter requires a little wiring re work because it has the solenoid on it. Nothing difficult though, comes with everything needed.
Then I got the exhaust back together. The slenderizing I did on the upper control arms really helped. Lots of clearance even with the panhard bar. The only portion that isn't JetHot coated is the X pipe. I'm still not sure if I'm going to add a torque arm setup later on. I know my x pipe will need to be modded or replaced to fit a TA so I didn't want to waste money on coating that just yet.
Earlier I mentioned making a better way to tension the supercharger belt. The square cut outs for a ratchet to tension are difficult to access, especially with a thick radiator. The sharpie circle is where i want to add a wrenching location.
I was going to use a lugnut, but found this 3/4" stainless cap nut. So I plug welded a stud into the bracket from the backside.
Nut goes on the stud
Works awesome.
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gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
Great work on the tensioner. I had the same issue with accessing the cutout after everything was installed. Did the best I could but we’ll see if it’s tight enough. Anderson Performance also looks to sell an add on bracket that ‘screws’ the tensioner tighter. Good design I think but you may have solved the issue in your own way.So.... I noticed my transmission was canted. I didn't need to put a level on it. It was considerable off. I checked the motor mounts and they were correctly installed. The nubs were properly in the k member. The mount studs sitting at the bottom of the slots. The mounts sitting flush on the k member. No idea what's up with that but the drivers side was about an inch lower than the passenger. It was almost touching my steering shaft. These were the "convertable" mounts from LMR.
I orderd the energy suspension mounts and installed them and all is well. It's tough to measure these things accurately because of how they are shaped. But the energy mounts appear to be a little shorter. Maybe a ¼".
I have enough clearance on my header / steering shaft
Otherside
I did check hood clearance with the Vortech and it is snug. But will work. I can only guess i got a bad set of "convertable" mounts, but after reading the reviews on them... i dont seem to be alone here.
With that behind me I moved to other stuff. I got a new starter. Way smaller and lighter. I think the 35 year old Motorcraft is due. The Ford Performamce mini starter requires a little wiring re work because it has the solenoid on it. Nothing difficult though, comes with everything needed.
Then I got the exhaust back together. The slenderizing I did on the upper control arms really helped. Lots of clearance even with the panhard bar. The only portion that isn't JetHot coated is the X pipe. I'm still not sure if I'm going to add a torque arm setup later on. I know my x pipe will need to be modded or replaced to fit a TA so I didn't want to waste money on coating that just yet.
Earlier I mentioned making a better way to tension the supercharger belt. The square cut outs for a ratchet to tension are difficult to access, especially with a thick radiator. The sharpie circle is where i want to add a wrenching location.
I was going to use a lugnut, but found this 3/4" stainless cap nut. So I plug welded a stud into the bracket from the backside.
Nut goes on the stud
Works awesome.
Thanks. Yeah, I'm aware of the Anderson tensioner. It seems nice, but also seems easy to overdo the tension and damage the bearings without being able to "feel" it. I like to put a torque wrench on the bracket and hold it to 55 ft lbs while tightening the bolts. Seems to be right for me as I don't have any slippage or notice any improvements by going tighter.
I have a really thick radiator and it's darn near impossible to get anything in between to tighten the belt. This is gonna work great for me.
The Vortech bracket makes relocation of the charcoal canister necessary. The instructions call to remove one of the screws and cock it over to clear the supercharger bracket. It works, but looks cheesy. So I'm gonna relocate it out of sight.
Start with this
Gonna use some parts of the original steel mounting bracket.
I installed two ruvnuts in the passenger side wheel apron that the bracket will mount to.
This is the bracket after a coat of paint
I'm going to mount the canister purge solenoid to the bracket I made. It has a rubber sleeve on it which will work nice to cushion it on the bracket.
Then I can mount it to the bracket with a hose clamp and hook up the lines
Mounts behind the passenger wheel well behind the splash shield
Earlier I mentioned how moved my charcoal canister to the passenger fenderwell. The wiring needed to be extended for it. When I get my ProM EMS it will come with a factory style harness, so the the small harness for the canister purge solenoid (solenoid to main harness) will be reused. That's what I extended.
Nothing complex here. Just a little extension. One thing I see rookies do is cut all the wires in the same spot and then add wire. That way ends up with a mass where all the wire connections are. Looks like a snake digesting a mouse.
Stagger the connections, solder and heat shrink with a heat gun.
Covered with some corrugated tubing looks like it came that way.
I got a bunch of small things done today like hooking up the remaining wiring, heater hoses, finalized the fuel lines, hooked up the vacuum lines and stuff like that. I did a test fit of the upper intake to make sure my catch can (right under discharge pipe) will still be ok with the new motor mounts.
Unfortunately my valve cover and powerpipe are still at the powder coater so the intake mount is temporary and it doesn't look like it be able to start it this weekend. Hopefully next weekend he's done with it.
Also i had an oh
moment. I keyed it on and saw the airbag light still flashing. Everything is hooked up now so that's not cool. I was worried I might have f'ed my clock spring in the steering column when I had the linkage all apart. Turned it too far or something. It was code 8. A little Google and it said the main crash sensor not properly mounted. Well, that makes sense because it's not mounted yet. So I put a few bolts in it and the light is off. Thankfully. Must have a ground connection there.
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You do your wires how I do wires.
Kind of off-topic but I have to show you something you may find interesting:
I discovered this thing when I was working on boats.
Kind of off-topic but I have to show you something you may find interesting:
I discovered this thing when I was working on boats.
Hmm. That's kinda cool. I could see it handy for some things.You do your wires how I do wires.
Kind of off-topic but I have to show you something you may find interesting:
I discovered this thing when I was working on boats.
I grabbed a NOS air deflector from NPD. My original was all wavy and scuffed.
Also got around to putting on the radiator side and frame rail air reflectors. They actually fit nicely.
Installed the new AC condensor from Classic auto air. I like how all the connections are threaded rather than the quick connect. I used some new mounting brackets and hardware.
One step closer to being back on the ground. I got it off the jackstands and have it on ramps now. I was able to adjust the new panhard bar and worked on ride height adjustments with the coilovers and rear springs perches
Also got around to putting on the radiator side and frame rail air reflectors. They actually fit nicely.
Installed the new AC condensor from Classic auto air. I like how all the connections are threaded rather than the quick connect. I used some new mounting brackets and hardware.
One step closer to being back on the ground. I got it off the jackstands and have it on ramps now. I was able to adjust the new panhard bar and worked on ride height adjustments with the coilovers and rear springs perches
Rolled my rear fenders today. Came out awesome. Folded them right over. I went just shy of totally flat. I wanted to be able to rinse out the lip area and not catch junk in there. This is the first time I've ever done this. It was actually therapeutic. I used a heat gun on the paint. It's original. Didn't want to crack it. This is real scientific, I heated it until it was uncomfortable touching my forearm to it but not burning.
No paint cracks. Lots-o-space now.
I don't think my fronts need it, but I sort of feel like rolling something else lol
No paint cracks. Lots-o-space now.
I don't think my fronts need it, but I sort of feel like rolling something else lol
gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
Got it running. Unfortunately the powder coater with my valve cover and power pipe has gone MIA. Not sure what's up. Won't call me back. Was supposed to be done last Friday....
So I ordered another valve cover and used my old UPR plastic powerpipe. Right now it's just temporarily running. I wanted to make sure everything was OK with my engine work before I dive into the Pro-M standalone. So I currently have no tune, and no FMU for the supercharger. So this is idle only, and maybe a few controlled shake down runs around the hood. Not sure when the standalone will be here. I'll give em a jingle in a few weeks. Honestly I'm glad for a little break.
This is the dirtiest the car has been, but I did a pretty decent job keeping it sheltered from all the fabrication dust which has been going on for the last 7 months. Totally new fuel system, totally new brake system, new suspension, and the top end kit. Time for a chill....
If the weather gets better I'd like to get it out for a good wash and clean up my garage real good. But here she be.... I got it warmed up, set the timing and base idle.
So I ordered another valve cover and used my old UPR plastic powerpipe. Right now it's just temporarily running. I wanted to make sure everything was OK with my engine work before I dive into the Pro-M standalone. So I currently have no tune, and no FMU for the supercharger. So this is idle only, and maybe a few controlled shake down runs around the hood. Not sure when the standalone will be here. I'll give em a jingle in a few weeks. Honestly I'm glad for a little break.
This is the dirtiest the car has been, but I did a pretty decent job keeping it sheltered from all the fabrication dust which has been going on for the last 7 months. Totally new fuel system, totally new brake system, new suspension, and the top end kit. Time for a chill....
If the weather gets better I'd like to get it out for a good wash and clean up my garage real good. But here she be.... I got it warmed up, set the timing and base idle.
