Progress Thread Nicholase "lights out" build- TKX install

[AeroCoupe]

Guy up in New York does it. It takes about four hours as he walks you through everything with the intention you will never have him do anything past the initial tune. He wants you to learn how it works so you can make small changes and see how things respond. I just do not want to do the initial setup as I know jack about this stuff but I am willing to learn.

After the initial tune you take it out and data log and then he will adjust it and show you what and why he is doing it.

 

[nicholase]

The Pro-M system is really nice and its worth the money IMO. I really like that you get a new harness and it integrates with the dash harness with zero hackery. From what I have seen their support is excellent and the system works as advertised. I will be following to see how the install and tuning goes on it. Great choice and you are going to love that system.

Thanks. Looking forward to getting it installed. The harmess is nice. Looks modern OEM quality. It is nice that it doesn't require any splicing at all. It's actually pre wired for an electric cooling fan too which is cool. Just have to plug a fan into it and activate it in the software. Then it's managed by the computer with the same coolant temp sensor it's using for the tune. Just like a new car would. No outboard realys or fusing to run.

I looked at this system pretty hard but in the end what drove me away was the price. I ended up waiting on the MSPNP-Pro to come out as I can use a MAF with it, can run a left and right bank wide band, its sequential injection vs bank, and it works with the factory harness. What really swayed me is I have a brand new ECU harness for my Coupe so I do not have to worry about a 30 year old wiring harness. I wish DYIAutoTune would offer a custom base tune vs the stock one as I have no experience tuning. So with that I will have a remote tune done with someone as I really do not want to F this up.

Yeah, The price did keep me looking at the competition for a while. My setup cost $3000 + the $500 crank trigger option. So $3500 total. (That includes having them enter all my info and build the baseline calibration tune.) Still...not cheap, but I don't feel ridiculous looking at the big picture.

All the tuning info I mentioned earlier is just research I did on how it works. It's really not necessary to know or understand it all. They actually mention in all the information videos that additional tuning is not needed or even encouraged. Ideally once all the baseline info is entered it just does it's thing. If down the road I drop a 363 in it, i just enter the new bore and stroke and it's good to go. If all goes as planned I wont have to spend a penny on tuning ever. But yeah, it's a big hit up front.

By comparison the Holley Term X is $2500 with the Fox a/c harness and boost capable MAP. Adding a crank trigger setup up would bring it pretty close in cost and still require splicing of the factory body harness for all the gauges and interior electronics. Plus what ever it cost to get a soild tune.

The MSPNP-PRO looks nice. I considered that. I felt I would definitely need set up and tuning help with it. In my area all the tuners I spoke with seem familiar with the Holley and would rather work with that. They seem a fickle bunch.

 

[nicholase]

I read alot of reviews on the ProM efi setup on fox type forums, it's also very popular with the Factory 5 crowd. So I lurked around on some of those forums. Overall it seems well received and all the things ProM promises it to be seem accurate. Those guys mostly go for the "carb look" version. It uses a 1000cfm throttle body like the image below. It has a few familiar features like an IAC and TPS.

It mounts to a manifold with fuel rails and manifold mounted injectors. But it has carb type flange. A custom MAF sits on top of the TB under the round "carb type" air cleaner. But fundamentally it's the same system and they seem really happy with it.

That "carb look' set up looks pretty sweet. It'd look nice on a pre EFI fox.

 

[nicholase]

I received a calibration file from ProM when my EFI kit shipped. There is a particular manner in which the tuning software and calibration needs to be loaded into your labtop. The calibration is what most would refer to as a "tune". The tuning software contains all the detailed install instructions, parameters to edit, and options to select or de-select. It seems pretty intuitive.

But first things first, I don't have a computer. So I did some research on a labtop that would survive garage duty. It's going to be dedicated to tuning so I want it to be tough. After some deep dive research I went with a Panosonic ToughBook CF31. It's contained in a magnesium case and fully rugged. It carries several MilSpec ratings for tough duty. You can drop it from 6 feet. Spill stuff on it and what not. I got a reconditioned unit updated with Windows 11 , some extra memory, and it was pretty reasonable priced.

It's built like a tank, bulky and heavy. It also has a touch screen which is handy.

All the ports have sealed doors to keep any liquids out.

One thing I had a little trouble finding was the labtop requirements to run the ProM tuning software. Here they are if anyone ever needs it:


"Pro-M EMS will work with Microsoft Windows 7 or newer and MAC OS. My recommendation is to get a laptop that runs Windows 10.
Minimum system requirements:
2 GHz CPU
4 GB RAM
Microsoft Windows® 7 or newer
Microsoft .NET Framework 4.6.1 or higher
USB Port"

So pretty basic for what I gather. Pretty much any newer computer should work. Loading the software took me a while as there are several steps that for a non computer guy were like a foreign language. But with help from Google I got it all set up in about an hour. Would probably take a computer competent person 3 minutes.

 

[nicholase]

Unfortunately this will be mostly at a stand still for reasons out of my control.

Once the software was loaded I could access the full instructions and that's where I found my problem. I learned that the system uses a seperate transmission control harness. It's supposed to be included in the kit. Unfortunately they didn't include the transmission control harness.

It's been 3 weeks and they won't respond to my inquiries on why it wasn't included. I did order one from their website out of pocket but they won't reply if it's the right one. It's not in stock so hopefully whenever they ship it to me it's correct.

There are a few things I can do while I wait. I'll try and cover everything as I go.

 

[gkomo]

That’s a major bummer about the transmission harness. Also bummer to hear they aren’t getting back to you.

Those toughbooks are cool, we buy a ton of them on behalf of the navy for whatever task order we have that requires them.

 

[Flyboy60]

Unfortunately this will be mostly at a stand still for reasons out of my control.

Once the software was loaded I could access the full instructions and that's where I found my problem. I learned that the system uses a seperate transmission control harness. It's supposed to be included in the kit. Unfortunately they didn't include the transmission control harness.

It's been 3 weeks and they won't respond to my inquiries on why it wasn't included. I did order one from their website out of pocket but they won't reply if it's the right one. It's not in stock so hopefully whenever they ship it to me it's correct.

There are a few things I can do while I wait. I'll try and cover everything as I go.

That is not good that you are not getting answering. How does that play out for future issues? Hopefully its a set it up and forget it as they claimed.

 

[Noobz347]

I dunno if this will help or maybe you already tried this.

Warranty page explicitly says: “customers who believe they have a defective product should call our technical office at 336.644.8668. Please have proof of purchase... phone support will ask you to run specific tests...”

 

[Noobz347]

While I was looking, I saw a couple other instances of similar support issues.

I sent an email to Pro-M asking for guidance. I'll post any response that I get.



Hi Pro-M Team,

I administer a large Mustang community (StangNet) and have been following several member installs of the Pro-M EFI system. We’ve seen some great results, but we’ve also seen posts suggesting that getting technical support can sometimes be challenging for customers.

Since I’m personally considering purchasing a Pro-M system for my own project, I wanted to ask:

• What is the recommended best way for customers to get support (phone, email, contact form)?
• Are wiring diagrams and troubleshooting flowcharts available for download, or do they need to be requested?
• What should a customer have ready (serial number, purchase proof, etc.) to make sure their support request goes smoothly?
• If a part arrives damaged or something is missing from the kit, what is the process for getting it replaced quickly?

I’d like to be able to share your response with our members so that expectations are set correctly and folks get the most out of your products.

Thanks for your time,
Noobz347
StangNet.com

 

[AeroCoupe]

Just an FYI but it is a "laptop" not a "labtop".

Hopefully they get back to you ASAP as they are great to deal with on my fuel pump hanger.

 

[nicholase]

Just an FYI but it is a "laptop" not a "labtop".

Hopefully they get back to you ASAP as they are great to deal with on my fuel pump hanger.

This is pretty funny lol. I've been saying that all my life, or at least as long as labtops laptops have been around for. So even if you're sitting at a laboratory bench? Or a kitchen table? huh. I'll he laughing about that for a while!

 

[Noobz347]

This is pretty funny lol. I've been saying that all my life, or at least as long as labtops laptops have been around for. So even if you're sitting at a laboratory bench? Or a kitchen table? huh. I'll he laughing about that for a while!

Maybe because you're older than dirt.

When you were a kid it was "labtop".

 

[nicholase]

Today I got started. Hopefully I'll get my missing transmission harness from ProM soon. Still haven't heard anything on it. They are aware, so I'll just trust it will ship soon. I lost the summer anyway, so I may as well get it all prepped.

I removed the factory harness. There's three of them. The inside to outside main, the engine, and the O². The inside harness wasn't as bad as I anticipated. I took my time and was carefull not to damage it. I'll be keeping all this.

I found out when trying to get the ECU plug through the firewall the bolt head on the ECU connector needs to be pointing up. That's the only way I could get it out anyway. It's SNUG. I'm glad I waited to do my A/C until I finish the install. The lines would have made it more of a pain for sure.

The computer looks like new still. Never even opened up. I'll be keeping this too.

Then I got the injectors swapped out. Out are some basically new 24lb Bosh and in are 50lb Deutchwerks #18U-01-0050-8. I'll sell the old ones with the calibrated MAF one of these days. Recoup a little anyway.

They fit nice in the Anderson fuel rails. No rail bracket adjustment needed going from the Bosch squirters.

I got the fuel rails back on. I mentioned earlier I painted the intake with Eastwood 2k Alumiblast when I was doing all the engine work. It's holding up nice, even after spilling a bunch of fuel on them. Those Anderson rails hold alot! Really happy with the paint.

The injector kit shipped with Uscar to EV1 adapters. I was a little concerned how they would clear in a few spots. It's pretty snug next to the coolant tube and ECT. I wasn't sure if these one peice plastic adapters were the way, or of I should get a shorter adapter with two ends and wire in between. The one peice ones fit great and I wont have the extra wire flopping around. So it worked out.


This the one I was thinking might be an issue #1 cyl. But it's got plenty of room.

I did something a little different this time. I'm always losing my flashlight . For some reason I find my self walking in circles looking for the dam thing almost every time I set it down. I made a rule. Every time I misplaced the flashlight I did a set of 10. So I'm done for the day. My chest is killing me

Yes. There were a few times I looked all over for it. Then went to do my punishment only to find it hanging from the bar..... I'm going to try and not worry about this

 

[Noobz347]

I would suggest something like this:

But it would crush you with the bench reps.

 

[gkomo]

Consider me when you sell the 24’s and MAF. I think I’m a ways out from bigger injectors and tuning and all that jazz and the 24’s may be a safer option for me in the interim.

 

[Noobz347]

I didn't hear back from Pro-M so I sent them another email.

Hi Pro-M Team,

I wanted to follow up on the email I sent last week regarding support for the Pro-M EFI system. I haven’t heard back yet and just wanted to confirm that my message was received.

Here’s a quick recap of what I asked:

• Best way for customers to get technical support (phone, email, contact form)
• Whether wiring diagrams and troubleshooting flowcharts are available for download or by request
• What information (serial number, proof of purchase, etc.) customers should have ready when requesting support
• Process for quickly replacing damaged or missing kit components

Several members of our Mustang community are actively working through Pro-M EFI installations, so I’d like to be able to share your response with them to set expectations and help ensure smooth installs. Here’s one of the current discussion threads where members are seeking support:

https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums...-build-prom-engine-management-install.928171/

Thanks again for your time and assistance — we look forward to your reply.



Best regards,

Noobz347

StangNet.com

 

[nicholase]

I did a fine tuning of the crank position sensor. I set this all up when I did all the engine work and had the engine out. But I wanted to give it a once over. The first step is to set the balancer at 40°BTDC.

If you ever need to rotate the crank precisely and have a Vortech there is no way to get a socket on the crank bolt with the fan shroud in place. There is basically no clearance at all. A basic strap wrench works good.

Just remove the belt and put the strap wrench on the pulley grooves. Works like a charm.

With the crank at 40°BTDC I made sure the sensor was centered on the signature tooth. Its the one with the little dot. I did move the sensor a touch to get it perfect.

Then I set the gap between the sensor and trigger wheel to .050" with some feeler guages and tightened all the adjustment bolts down for the last time.

Then I started installing the harness. It's a snug fit through that little hole. I put some masking tape around it to prevent the sharp edge from gouging anything.

I dropped a wire through the hole into the interior and taped it to the harness. This way I could push a little and then go inside and gently tug a little. It helped pull the harness down between the heater box and the body.

Once the main connectors were through it went pretty good for a little bit. Then there is a bunch of wires, relays, and connectors in a lump that has to go through. That took a bit of finesse and patience. There were several coils of wire for future options. I undid them all and pulled the wires through individually. I think the coiled up wire loops would have gotten stuck on something in there.

This is the lump that took some time to go through. Once I got the harness through I checked it really good for any scratches. Also gave all the individual wires in each connector a tug to make sure everytimg was still fully seated. All looks good

With that done I got all the engine side connectors plugged together. Everything except power and ground. It went pretty smooth. The harness matches the layout of all the factory connectors well. Honestly the thing that took the longest was getting that darn harness grommet in the firewall correct. I lubed and pushed, lubed and pushed until it was all the way in

Got the PCM set in place. Tomorrow I'll mount it and cut the carpet for the harness to pass through.

 

[nicholase]

One of the things I think that is excellent is the integration into the stock harness. Here's the drivers side main harness. It's the one with the coil connector, A/C, and ground. Because the PCM handles the A/C operation like the factory computer did, IAC function can be tied to increase when the compressor is switched on. I don't think the other offerings do that but I could be mistaken.

The larger white and black connector near the hood hinge connect and run into the vehicle to power your gauge and other stuff. No splicing needed for the interior functions.

All plugged together it looks stock. It tucks between the starter solenoid and inner fender nicely. Very clean. The power and ground will be connected last.

This is the passenger side of the main harness. Most of the little off branches are for options. Some I'll be using, some not.

Coming out of the main harness by the A/C evaporator location are two loose wires. They are for nitrous solenoids. I won't be using that so I tucked them in with another option I won't be using so they aren't exposed. I always like to put a dab of heat shrink on the end. Then fold it over and tape it. A trick is to cut the tape with a razor blade intead of stretching it to break it. When you stretch it eventually it will just return and start unraveling and get all gooey. If it's cut cleanly it won't unravel.

Then I ran them into the fenderwell through a grommet. I taped up the ends of the unused connectors and zip tied them in place. My charcoal canister is also located there. I fabricated a bracket and tucked it in there nicely. That's a few pages back if anyone is interested. My fuel lines also go through that area through a grommet into the engine bay. Eventually it will all get covered up with the wheel liner.

A word the brakes. They are awesome. I was worried they might be overkill but with the correct booster (93 Cobra) and master they really feel great. The 4 piston calipers in the rear seem like a nice match. Feels very balanced and like a modern sports car.

Then I went inside and tidied up some things. Much of the loose wires coils are for additional options that I wont be using.

I taped them together and will zip tie them up in the kick panel. I pulled out the purple wire and couled it up for later. It's used for the traction control indicator light.

The T/C requires a momentart contact switch. I ordered one from this dude in Australia. Should be here any day now. The skid mark symbol is backit which is really slick. It was 25 bucks so not crazy for a nice switch.

In the ProM software you can select whether the indicator light is on or off whem the T/C is in use. I think I'll set it to be lit when it is off.

 

[nicholase]

Got my T/C switch today. They have lots of cool ones. Even the button you push is billet so it has a real nice feel to it. Came with a nice little wiring harness too. If I ever add the 2 step or launch control options I'll definitely go back to this shop and get some more.

https://billetautomotivebuttons.com...qRhiWupqeegk9olzDQglORyJWP3GQzFZblACzKvTJ3IUn

 

[Noobz347]