After reading the last three posts, I feel extremely blessed that I have a great relationship with my in-laws. Same goes for my wife. I couldn't bear to picture it any other way. That just seems like a very difficult way to live.
Nick's "lvndpst" Restoration (and Slight Modification) Thread
- Thread starter 95BlueStallion
- Start date
I've decided that I can be miserable pretty much anywhere. 
I’m separated by my future (March 2nd)in laws by about 5 hour drive and they don’t drive anymore so....
You know, once we bought that house and the light switch in her flipped on, life could have been pretty nice with her. She was a good Gma to my first son for the year or so she was around him. And the rest of my wife's family is great, so I cant complain. And that right there is why we wont be living anywhere but right here in good ol' IA.
I like Iowa, I'm stuck in oklahoma though.
Someday I'll make a pilgrimage back to Iowa City and give you a holler Nick.
Someday I'll make a pilgrimage back to Iowa City and give you a holler Nick.
I just drove through Iowa on 80 all the way to Des Moines on my way to KC two weekends ago. I was just on I 35 where they had that big pile up from the weather.
If you are ever in northern Illinois (Byron has a good track you know lol) give me a holler. I’ll buy
If you are ever in northern Illinois (Byron has a good track you know lol) give me a holler. I’ll buy
No news on the car, hopefully I will get time tomorrow. Today I spent 15 mins cutting and welding any old flexplate from my 351W Ranger into a work of art for my living room. Surprisingly the wife likes it.
Good news, the car runs. Until I get tail pipes made, there is no video. @90sickfox , you get the credit man. Rockers were all it was.
The MAC mufflers make quite the drone dumped. I let it idle up to temp, where it held steady. The idle hunts a bit, but Im hoping a dyno session will fix that. I did notice that when I unplug my hose from the oil filler neck to the intake tract, it seems to idle a bit better. I will probably run the hose from the filler neck down under the intake tubing, and just put a mini breather on the end since it prefers the open air.
Next order of business is tail pipes. And ever since I welded in the catalytic converters, I have hated the drivers side converter being upside down to fit. I am going to cut it out, lengthen the down pipe from the header, and weld it back in correctly. Never should have been so lazy the first time.
The MAC mufflers make quite the drone dumped. I let it idle up to temp, where it held steady. The idle hunts a bit, but Im hoping a dyno session will fix that. I did notice that when I unplug my hose from the oil filler neck to the intake tract, it seems to idle a bit better. I will probably run the hose from the filler neck down under the intake tubing, and just put a mini breather on the end since it prefers the open air.
Next order of business is tail pipes. And ever since I welded in the catalytic converters, I have hated the drivers side converter being upside down to fit. I am going to cut it out, lengthen the down pipe from the header, and weld it back in correctly. Never should have been so lazy the first time.
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Iac and the egr valve clean and working properly? Wait, why am I asking you, you already know thos stuff.
I bought one of those IAC spacers, I should phuck with it more now that you mention it. I havent done a thing with the EGR. I'll have to read up on cleaning it.
Well 
fellas, it looks like my spring and summer are going to be filled with working out my car's kinks.
The snow melted a few days ago, and its nice and dry out. I decided to go for a drive to the car wash and get the year's worth of dust off the car.
I made it there and back without incident, but the car runs like absolute horse sht. I wont bore you guys and solicit 100 opinions, I just need to read the tech forums and go over all the engine systems. I am guessing a lot of it has to do with tuning, being I have 30 lb injectors and a hot cam now, but Im not about to throw away $ for a dyno session and find out I have bad parts. EGR, IAC, TPS, etc.
Ive now owned the car a year and a half, and have put about 30 miles on it... I was all excited to go big, and now a big part of me is considering rebuilding the stock engine and swapping it back in. I still have all my stock parts to be able to do so. That wouldnt require a dyno tune, upgraded transmission, and would return it to a numbers matching car.
Anybody want a 347?
fellas, it looks like my spring and summer are going to be filled with working out my car's kinks.The snow melted a few days ago, and its nice and dry out. I decided to go for a drive to the car wash and get the year's worth of dust off the car.
I made it there and back without incident, but the car runs like absolute horse sht. I wont bore you guys and solicit 100 opinions, I just need to read the tech forums and go over all the engine systems. I am guessing a lot of it has to do with tuning, being I have 30 lb injectors and a hot cam now, but Im not about to throw away $ for a dyno session and find out I have bad parts. EGR, IAC, TPS, etc.
Ive now owned the car a year and a half, and have put about 30 miles on it... I was all excited to go big, and now a big part of me is considering rebuilding the stock engine and swapping it back in. I still have all my stock parts to be able to do so. That wouldnt require a dyno tune, upgraded transmission, and would return it to a numbers matching car.
Anybody want a 347?
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Custom cam ground for the original owner.
The original owner had this engine carbed, and for an autocross/street car. The way it runs right now, its no fun on the street. Im just hesitant to go get a tune until I check over everything.
The original owner had this engine carbed, and for an autocross/street car. The way it runs right now, its no fun on the street. Im just hesitant to go get a tune until I check over everything.
Sorry to hear but I agree with your assessment. Try to make sure it isn’t something you are missing before tuning.
Everything is hooked up, and I no longer have all the valve train noise I did initially. I feel good about the mechanicals, its testing TPS voltage, IAC voltage, EGR function, etc that I dislike. I have no confidence when it comes to electrical. I could be doing it right, but will always assume I could be wrong. I like making things (bumper, grille), and assembling parts, but hate diagnosing problems and testing electrical. I am a bolt on and body work hot rodder.
Nah, sold it a few months back figuring this engine was all pieced together by a professional, it'd probably be in my best interest to run it as is.
Can you describe the way it runs? Does it idle decently? Does it break apart through out the rpms or just have sluggish delayed acceleration? Are you sure there is no slipped intake gasket or other vacuum leaks?
I am with you on electronics I hate diagnostics but I’d start there.
I am with you on electronics I hate diagnostics but I’d start there.
well,...(and I don't know nothin bout the valve adjusting process on a stock 5.0) Your spec sheet called for a 6.700" length pushrod. When checking, it looks like the stock length is between 6.248, and 6.300"
do you have those comp gold rockers on these heads, and are your rockers fully adjustable?
The first thing I'd want to know is what is so different in your setup that you need a pushrod that is .400" longer than stock?
Not that that is causing you your problem this time, but when there is that much difference between stock and what you got, I'm just wondering why the diff?
The cam itself is purely a street cam, seems to have a decent amount of duration, and should be a little bit rough idle,....also, wondering what the stock ECU does when it has to deal with that.
What does a vacuum gauge tell you when the engine is idling?
If the setup was for a freakin carburetor, why did you change it? A carburetor isn't the end of the world,...it's been the way to fix phcked up frustrating EFI for years now. I'll tell you this:
If I had a 347 in the car, and was considering changing the thing back to stock because it's running bad,.what makes you so sure that a 5.0 stocker will run any different? Especially if you are running any of the stuff in the 347?
Let me see...........* The dilemma
Admit I can't/don't want to either fix what's wrong, and change the entire thing back to stock....
or.....
Put a carb on the 347.
Give me a minute................
" Uhhh Hello? Mr. Holley?....I need a 4776 please"
Maf? what the hell is that for? (8) 30 # injectors? sounds like a big waste of money. Stupid expensive F.I injection manifold?....What a way to make up the necessary fundage for the carb swap...Salt and pepper shakers? belongs on the kitchen table. Throttle body?,....maybe it'll be a cool piece of art to add to your bent flexplate table ornament..
If I had it all to do over, The whole MS2 thing would be still sitting on the shelf at DIY. A carb (or in my most recent iteration) carb(s) would be on the engine....It's an amazing little thingy that has been working with almost no changes for 100 years....It's still what allows restricted intake engines to make 800 HP in NASCAR, still the fuel metering choice of 99% of N/A drag racers, and would be what the Monster breathes through, If I'd had one minutes worth of trouble with the current setup.
do you have those comp gold rockers on these heads, and are your rockers fully adjustable?
The first thing I'd want to know is what is so different in your setup that you need a pushrod that is .400" longer than stock?
Not that that is causing you your problem this time, but when there is that much difference between stock and what you got, I'm just wondering why the diff?
The cam itself is purely a street cam, seems to have a decent amount of duration, and should be a little bit rough idle,....also, wondering what the stock ECU does when it has to deal with that.
What does a vacuum gauge tell you when the engine is idling?
If the setup was for a freakin carburetor, why did you change it? A carburetor isn't the end of the world,...it's been the way to fix phcked up frustrating EFI for years now. I'll tell you this:
If I had a 347 in the car, and was considering changing the thing back to stock because it's running bad,.what makes you so sure that a 5.0 stocker will run any different? Especially if you are running any of the stuff in the 347?
Let me see...........* The dilemma
Admit I can't/don't want to either fix what's wrong, and change the entire thing back to stock....
or.....
Put a carb on the 347.
Give me a minute................
" Uhhh Hello? Mr. Holley?....I need a 4776 please"
Maf? what the hell is that for? (8) 30 # injectors? sounds like a big waste of money. Stupid expensive F.I injection manifold?....What a way to make up the necessary fundage for the carb swap...Salt and pepper shakers? belongs on the kitchen table. Throttle body?,....maybe it'll be a cool piece of art to add to your bent flexplate table ornament..
If I had it all to do over, The whole MS2 thing would be still sitting on the shelf at DIY. A carb (or in my most recent iteration) carb(s) would be on the engine....It's an amazing little thingy that has been working with almost no changes for 100 years....It's still what allows restricted intake engines to make 800 HP in NASCAR, still the fuel metering choice of 99% of N/A drag racers, and would be what the Monster breathes through, If I'd had one minutes worth of trouble with the current setup.
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