Nitrous

Black95GTS said:
1 - Yes, I believe that 24s are too small. I'm putting together a combo similar to yours and I personally feel that 24s are too small N/A, nevermind with N2O. Definately step it up to 30s. The injector pulse width will be a little harder to dial in (as Grady has taught me :hail2: ) but I'd rather tune more then ping more.

2 - Just one step colder. Stockers are autolite 25s, so switch to autolite 24s, etc.

3 - Yes, you need a new fuel pump even without the spray. Get a 255lph in tank pump and don't worry about it every again.

4 - While you are at it, just step it up to a 100 shot. You might as well.

5 - As far as timing is concerned, you're going to find that your car will run better with a little timing advance over stock anyway. Aluminum cylinder heads tend to like a bit more advance then irons do.

- Adam
1. would 30 waist alot more gas? and how much are thise inj?
3. how much is that fuel pump?
4. 100 shot seems to much for me, i think im gonna mess up my engine.
5. if you run nitrous doens't timing need to be set at stock to be safe?
 
Kevin R. said:
I thought with nitrous you ran with around 10* timing? Maybe I'm wrong here..

Would 14* be good on a stock engine?

PS..Guero, you're a thread thief crapola

:D :p Kiddin'.



This is straight from my NOS installation book.

NOS Recommends fuel pump upgrade prior to using nitrous.

For every 50 hp of nitrous retard timing 1.5 to 2 degrees. For 125 and up then you need to go to a colder plug.

Are you going with a dry kit or wet kit? This is directed to Kevin R and Guero.

If you are goin with a dry kit then the 24's will be fine, the nitrous will close off the return line and force the fuel pressure up 40psi from where you have it set at under normal driving.

If you are going with a wet kit, the fuel pressure should be set at 40 to 45 psi for optimum atomization of fuel thru the nozzle.

Hope this helps you out a little.
 
Kevin R. said:
I thought with nitrous you ran with around 10* timing? Maybe I'm wrong here..

Would 14* be good on a stock engine?

PS..Guero, you're a thread thief crapola

:D :p Kiddin'.

Stock timing is 10 degrees. They tell you to keep that but run 92-94 octain. You need the higher octain because higher octain gas just means it can be compressed more without detonation (or pinging or knocking, whatever you want to call it). Reducing your timing also reduces your likelihood of detonation.

Basically adding more oxygen (N2O) means adding more fuel, which means more crap to compress, which means your compression ratio will go up when you press the "go baby go" button. Hence the need for the gas to be able to withstand more compression.

If you wanted to, you could back your stock timing down and run 87 and the NOS. I wouldn't advise this for safety's sake and that the whole point is to run as much timing as possible before you ping. More timing = more horsepower (to a point). Which is why S/C guys are getting massive gains from the Snow Methanol Injection kit, they can add more timing and still resist detonation due to the methanol.

Adding a HCI package into the picture changes what your manual says because aluminum cylinder heads can run a lot more timing then stock irons. Its up to you (or your tuner) to determine where your timing should be when running N2O with your combo. Personally, I plan on tuning my combo to run as much spark as possible without pinging on 94 octain, back it off 2 degrees, and try a 75 shot. If I don't get ping, then 100, then 125, etc, backing off timing as needed to avoid ping and ending at my 125 level with as much tming as I can squeeze in there.

Sorry for the length, PM me and I'll try to cover anything I've missed.

- Adam
 
With a stock AODE, 4.10s, sticky tires, a 125 shot, and a TOTALLY stock 5.0L (from throttle body to oil pan) my 95 GT went 13.3, and had a best MPH of 105.9. With a 100 shot, I went 13.49 or something similar.

You WILL destroy your stock AODE using nitrous- the torque is too much. I thought mine would be fine, but after a year of spraying it started slipping horribly, and the torque converter ballooned.
 
Uh...torque is transferred through your transmissions- transmissions are generally rated for torque capability, NOT hp. It doens't matter when you spray, the fact is, the large level of torque your engine will be making on the spray will be transferred through your transmission to your driveshaft.