no parking/fog lights after fix...

8

89stangWhiz

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Mechanicsville, MD

Nov 16, 2005

#1

• Nov 16, 2005

• #1

I just finished up the fix kit for the fog lights posted on Corral, did it exactly as it said.
I hooked everything back up to test. Headlights work, but no parking lights, or fog lights. Turn signals also work as well as brakes. Anyone have any idea what might have gone wrong, or where to check? I know that fog lights cant work without the parking lights, so where to look from there? Thanks in advance, please help

 

8

89stangWhiz

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Nov 16, 2005

#2

• Nov 16, 2005

• #2

forgot to mention, getting 12 volts and the ground is good on the relay.

My dad seems to think maybe the switch is bad? Maybe we somehow messed it up when we pulled it off? I dont know.... anyone think that might be it?

 

jrichker

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Nov 16, 2005

#3

• Nov 16, 2005

• #3

Apply 12 volts to the relay coil using a jumper from the battery. If the lights turn on, your power to the relay and wiring for the relay are good. Then start looking at what you did with the switch wiring.

 

8

89stangWhiz

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Nov 16, 2005

#4

• Nov 16, 2005

• #4

well its started raining quite a bit so it might have to wait until tomorrow....
I will apply 12 colts to it and see if they come on.
Also, I was wondering if you need to have the cluster plugged in? It looked like the cluster lights were on the same circuit as the parking lights etc.... The dash is still mostly apart from the heater core.

 

Euphoric306

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Nov 16, 2005

#5

• Nov 16, 2005

• #5

shouldn't need the cluster plugged in, i dont think, but dont drive without it, i tried that for a few hours and my battery was dead soon after

try checking the fuse?

 

HISSIN50

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Nov 16, 2005

#6

• Nov 16, 2005

• #6

Euphoric306 said:

shouldn't need the cluster plugged in, i dont think, but dont drive without it, i tried that for a few hours and my battery was dead soon after

try checking the fuse?

Click to expand...

This is true. The switch/sense wiring needs to be connected, and this wire runs into the gauge itself.

I like a fuse checking idea, or that the parking light circuit is open. All that you should have done IIRC is tap into the parking light circuit. So since you lost those lights, there is an issue there from the sound of it.

Good luck.

 

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89stangWhiz

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Nov 17, 2005

#7

• Nov 17, 2005

• #7

well checking the fuse was one of the first things i did, and its fine. Although for some reason there is a 30 amp fuse there and the repair manual says it should be a fifteen.....?
anyway the fuse is good and i will hopefully make a few more checks tonight. So, Hissin50 you say I should give plugging in my cluster a try too? I was going to try that next to see if that helped, hope I can make some progress tonight! Working a little later than usual today
thanks for the ideas so far guys, keep you posted...

 

HISSIN50

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Nov 17, 2005

#8

• Nov 17, 2005

• #8

I would start with the parking lights. Probe the back of the headlight switch at the parking light terminal to see if you have juice. There is also a dimmer terminal back there I think (I know there is one for the SN95's and might be confusing that with a fox).

Once the parking lights work, the fogs should magically work. And the dimmer circuit might fix itself as well.

Good luck.

 

Euphoric306

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Nov 17, 2005

#9

• Nov 17, 2005

• #9

i think he said fogs do work? parking lights dont but blinkers do

are there two wires he could jump together on the headlight switch harness to turn parking lights on and check all circuits but the switch?? or is there a fuselike thing in the switch that would make bypassing it dangerous?

 

HISSIN50

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#10

• Nov 17, 2005

• #10

Euphoric306 said:

i think he said fogs do work? parking lights dont but blinkers do

are there two wires he could jump together on the headlight switch harness to turn parking lights on and check all circuits but the switch?? or is there a fuselike thing in the switch that would make bypassing it dangerous?

Click to expand...

In his opening post, I interpreted that his parking lights and fogs did not work (it seems like he chose to wire it so the parking lights control the positive relay coil). I might have misread it though.

Yeah, one can certainly jump the parking light terminal to test for continuity in the rest of the wiring (that is how alarms with parking light flashing work. I tapped into the brown parking light wire under the dash and I supply my own power to energize the circuit). I would use a fuse of the same rating as the original fuse, in case there is a short downstream. He should be able to jump the constant power terminal at the headlight switch itself, through a fuse, to the parking light terminal. This is exactly what the switch should be doing. If all is well after that, this suggests the switch is bad. Probing it for continuity is a good idea before buying new, though they are not expensive.

It is worth mentioning that when switches start to go, it can help to wiggle the switch around a little (push a little past or short of the normal position stop on the switch) to see if the switch closes.

 

Euphoric306

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#11

• Nov 17, 2005

• #11

oh ok i re-read and ur right his fogs dont work, so i assume there is a problem upstream of the tap-in of the primary relay positive lead, or a problem in the headlight switch