NO SPARK - Help Please

sore · Nov 15, 2006

The other day i started my 95 and it ran for about 45 second before it died. I am not getting any spark from the coil, but the coil does have power going to it. I tested the coil, and it checked out ok. I had the TFI checked and that seems to be ok. I used a test light and i have power to the injectors. I checked the fuel pump, and it's working. I just purchased a noid light and i will check it tonight to see if the injectors are pulsing. If the injectors are not pulsing, could it be the PIP. If the PIP is bad would this cause the coil to not throw a spark?

By the way, before i started the car for the last time, i tack welded something on the exhaust and the battery was still hooked up. Could this have caused the problem????

Thanks,

blkcobra50 · Nov 15, 2006

so is the coil good or bad? I'm confused. If the coil checks out ok meaning there is spark from it to distributor have you checked that?

sore · Nov 15, 2006

The coil check out good when i tested it with an ohm meter. Just to be sure, I also took the msd blaster 3 coil off my chevelle and rigged it up on the mustang and it still was not getting any spark to the distributor.

fordtech28 · Nov 15, 2006

sounds like you PIP sensor in the distributor took a dump very common in our cars I had the same symptom last year no spark just fuel i replaced the coil the ignition module and nada until I decided to change the distributor after I ruled out the rest and it fired right up

20new5.0 · Nov 15, 2006

There should only be two wires going to the coil, a hot and a ground lead. if your getting power to the coil then you should be getting spark to the distributor. If the PIP is bad it would definetely cause the car not to start, but it shouldn't affect wheather or not the coil is giving out a spark.

Simple Test*
Stick a small screwdriver in the end of the coil wire going to the dizzy and then have someone hold it about a half inch away from the coil backet. Then have someone crank the car over. if the coil is putting out power then you should see it arching electricity to the braket.

I would say most likely that it's your PIP sensor if the coil it putting out power.

SeventyMach1 · Nov 15, 2006

So let me get this straight ..... you have power from the coil to the dizzy ... but not from the dizzy the the plugs, right?

20new5.0 · Nov 15, 2006

SeventyMach1 said:
So let me get this straight ..... you have power from the coil to the dizzy ... but not from the dizzy the the plugs, right?

If this is the case, I would definitely look into the PIP sensor.

The Green GT · Nov 15, 2006

Mine did the exact same thing when my PIP went out. Pull the codes and see what you get.

HISSIN50 · Nov 15, 2006

There is some incorrect info on this thread.

Dynamic test of the coil:
Put a test light across the two coil terminals (the wires running into the grey coil connector). Have someone crank the engine over - you should see the test light pulse very quickly while cranking. If not, confirm key-on 12 volts to the coil. It's likely there, as you're more likely to lose the pulsed ground to the coil.

If missing the pulsed ground, the next step backwards is the TFI. Parts stores can bench test TFIs.

FWIW, if the PIP goes, you will NOT have spark, nor injector pulsing.

These are clues to help differentiate what's going on and where to look.

PUlling codes is always a good idea - we take all the clues we can get. A PIP often wont toss a code. A TFI will often generate a TFI or IDM code, but not always.

Good luck.

The Green GT · Nov 15, 2006

HISSIN50 said:
PUlling codes is always a good idea - we take all the clues we can get. A PIP often wont toss a code. A TFI will often generate a TFI or IDM code, but not always.

Good luck.

My PIP threw a code immediately.

20new5.0 · Nov 15, 2006

HISSIN50 said:
There is some incorrect info on this thread.

Dynamic test of the coil:
Put a test light across the two coil terminals (the wires running into the grey coil connector). Have someone crank the engine over - you should see the test light pulse very quickly while cranking. If not, confirm key-on 12 volts to the coil. It's likely there, as you're more likely to lose the pulsed ground to the coil.

This test is going to show if there's is power going TO the coil, it doesn't show wheather the coil is good or not. If you get power to the coil only if the PIP sensor is good, then I would look into the ignition module.

20new5.0 · Nov 15, 2006

The Green GT said:
My PIP threw a code immediately.

Mine didn't throw a code when it was bad.

HISSIN50 · Nov 15, 2006

20new5.0 said:
This test is going to show if there's is power going TO the coil, it doesn't show wheather the coil is good or not. If you get power to the coil only if the PIP sensor is good, then I would look into the ignition module.

The information was to augment what was already posted. If there is power and ground to the coil but no spark egressing the coil, the coil is likely bad.

As for your other point, the coil gets its ground pulse from the TFI. So if the TFI is bad, you wont have a consistant ground pulse to the coil.

20new5.0 · Nov 15, 2006

HISSIN50 said:
As for your other point, the coil gets its ground pulse from the TFI. So if the TFI is bad, you wont have a consistant ground pulse to the coil.

I didnt' know that about, thanks for the info.

sore · Nov 16, 2006

I had the TFI tested and it was good, i used a noid light, and it did nothing! I bought a PIP and went to change it this evening, but i can't get the distributor drive gear off. Any ideas???

HISSIN50 · Nov 16, 2006

sore said:
I had the TFI tested and it was good, i used a noid light, and it did nothing! I bought a PIP and went to change it this evening, but i can't get the distributor drive gear off. Any ideas???

A press or bearing splitter works nicely. There is a specific puller for the task, but it's about 50 bucks + shipping.

Good luck.

The Green GT · Nov 16, 2006

Return the PIP and get a remanufactured dist. Its not worth all the trouble.

JDS95GT · Nov 17, 2006

fordtech28 said:
sounds like you PIP sensor in the distributor took a dump very common in our cars I had the same symptom last year no spark just fuel i replaced the coil the ignition module and nada until I decided to change the distributor after I ruled out the rest and it fired right up

I had the same problem. The pile of metal dust and parts in the bittom of my distributor gave away the problem. It must have been going bad a long time because the new billet MSD made it feel like a whole new car.

Dave

sore · Nov 17, 2006

by the way, To get the drive gear off: i found an open end wrench that fit around the top of the gear, then i took an air chisle and placed it on the wrench as close to the gear as possible, and vibrated or pushed the gear off. To put the gear on i found a socket that was about the diameter of the gear, and used to air chisle to push it back on. It was pretty easy.
But anyway, I changed the PIP, and it still won't start! WTF

Any other suggestions?

sore · Nov 17, 2006

Voltage to Coil

Today i check for voltage at the coil (red/green wire) and it read 1.5 volts. Then after turning the car on and off a few times i heard a click noise coming from near the overflow can, and then i had 12 volts at the coil. The car still did not start, but is this normal??

NO SPARK - Help Please

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