No spark. Suggestions?

[other_shoe]

Moved the 67 out of the garage last night to do work on the DD (yes, that's how I spent NYE), and when I went to start it this morning the starter turned the engine but the car wouldn't start. After various shenanigans, I've determined that there is gas jetting into the venturis (sp?), the distributor appears to be turning the rotor, but there does not appear to be spark from the coil. I used the hold the wire with insulated channel locks and look for the arc method to determine this last matter.

I'd appreciate suggestions on what else to check before replacing the coil. Also, how much better are the "Flamethrower" coils. I'm kind of stuck with what's on the shelf at the local parts stores, but I'm thinking about a PerTronix upgrade for the ignition and they recommend pairing it with their coil (as they would).

 

[PoppyMod]

Moved the 67 out of the garage last night to do work on the DD (yes, that's how I spent NYE), and when I went to start it this morning the starter turned the engine but the car wouldn't start. After various shenanigans, I've determined that there is gas jetting into the venturis (sp?), the distributor appears to be turning the rotor, but there does not appear to be spark from the coil. I used the hold the wire with insulated channel locks and look for the arc method to determine this last matter.

I'd appreciate suggestions on what else to check before replacing the coil. Also, how much better are the "Flamethrower" coils. I'm kind of stuck with what's on the shelf at the local parts stores, but I'm thinking about a PerTronix upgrade for the ignition and they recommend pairing it with their coil (as they would).

Removing a plug wire and grounding is a good overall check of the primary and secondary systems. Now, eliminate the the secondary system by pulling the main lead from the dizzy cap, crank it over looking for a spark to ground. No spark, most likely the coil. If you have spark, then, somewhere beyond this point it's going to ground.
Good Luck!

 

[other_shoe]

Thanks, Poppymod.

I was pressed for time on this, so I went out and bought a new coil and installed it. Still no start, but I had to wait for my assistant to see if there was a problem with the spark.

While waiting, I pulled the distributor cap to check out the points, which turned out to have some build up on them. I did a little scraping/filing and was putting the cap back on to test when I noticed that the distributor was loose like you would have it when tuning. I left it in position and tried to start the car and got it to fire, but it stumbled badly. Then I rotated the distributor about ten or fifteen degrees and got it to fire and idle. I figure that I must have knocked it out of position while messing around with the the cap yesterday. I may not have needed the new coil -- I'll probably put the old one on just to test this theory -- but I'm not too torn up about prematurely replacing a twenty year old part.

 

[PoppyMod]

Thanks, Poppymod.

I was pressed for time on this, so I went out and bought a new coil and installed it. Still no start, but I had to wait for my assistant to see if there was a problem with the spark.

While waiting, I pulled the distributor cap to check out the points, which turned out to have some build up on them. I did a little scraping/filing and was putting the cap back on to test when I noticed that the distributor was loose like you would have it when tuning. I left it in position and tried to start the car and got it to fire, but it stumbled badly. Then I rotated the distributor about ten or fifteen degrees and got it to fire and idle. I figure that I must have knocked it out of position while messing around with the the cap yesterday. I may not have needed the new coil -- I'll probably put the old one on just to test this theory -- but I'm not too torn up about prematurely replacing a twenty year old part.

Good news! What you might do at this point, is to rotate the crank to coincide with the TDC pointer and your initial timing degree. The rotor should be at or near # 1 firing position relative to the cap. Now, with the cap removed, rotate the dizzy, just to the instant where the points begin to open. Lock it down. This should get you very close to your initial timing setting and firing position.
In the past to be more precise, I have connected a test light to the point side of the coil. With ignition "on", and the tip of the test light grounded, when you rotate the dizzy to the points just open, the the test light illuminates.
Good Luck!

 

[other_shoe]

Sadly, I'm going to have to wait on this for about a week, but thanks for the notes on the next step. I'll be sure to follow up when I do.