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Electrical No test pin connector?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Andresquintana.mma
  • Start date Start date May 22, 2020
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Andresquintana.mma

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#1
  • May 22, 2020
  • #1
Sorry posted in general/chat. Hey everyone bought an 88 gt about a year ago replaced the clutch then started giving me a surging idol. Bought a code reader and went to plug it in but can’t find the grey single wire test pin connector. Any idea if I’m missing something or if it’s somehow just got removed. I pulled the electorate off and still could t find it. Do 88s and older not come with the single test pin connector? I know this car has been converted to mass air flow and gas a cobra intake with 3.73 gears and exhaust. Just simple stuff that shouldn’t bother the wiring. Thanks for any help.
 

Blown88GT

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#2
  • May 22, 2020
  • #2
You can't find it because you are holding it in your left hand.
They all have them. Might be any color. Make sure it's not the 12V to power the under hood lamp, they look similar. If you use that one, it will damage the ECU.

 

Andresquintana.mma

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#3
  • May 22, 2020
  • #3
Do you know what color the self test in wire is? I have one that looks just like that. In the other forums I was looking at says it’s a under the hood lamp which the wire color is black with orange
 

Blown88GT

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#4
  • May 22, 2020
  • #4
Mine has a red stripe, connector is gray. Forget the other forums...they are idiots.
Put a test light on it, if it has power on it, it's the wrong one.
 

Andresquintana.mma

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#5
  • May 22, 2020
  • #5
Blown88GT said:
Mine has a red stripe, connector is gray. Forget the other forums...they are idiots.
Put a test light on it, if it has power on it, it's the wrong one.
Click to expand...
It has power. The other one is no where to be found. I checked my 89 and I found it easy. But on my 88 it doesn’t hace one. Do you think it was cut for some reason I can’t even find the wire. Do I have any other way to pull codes?
 

Andresquintana.mma

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#6
  • May 22, 2020
  • #6
Andresquintana.mma said:
It has power. The other one is no where to be found. I checked my 89 and I found it easy. But on my 88 it doesn’t hace one. Do you think it was cut for some reason I can’t even find the wire. Do I have any other way to pull codes?
Click to expand...
My 89 with the red I can find easy. The 88 black I can’t. On the 88 I tested it for power and yeah it had power. Did the same with the 89 the grey one didn’t have any power and black one did.
 

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90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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#7
  • May 22, 2020
  • #7
On the black 88 you are holding the hood light connector.

When you turn your key on does the fuel pump prime for a couple seconds and cut off ? The connector you are looking for is also the fuel pump test wire. Back in the day people had issues with the fuel pump circuit and would wire to the connector to make the pump come on with the key.
 

Andresquintana.mma

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#8
  • May 22, 2020
  • #8
90sickfox said:
On the black 88 you are holding the hood light connector.

When you turn your key on does the fuel pump prime for a couple seconds and cut off ? The connector you are looking for is also the fuel pump test wire. Back in the day people had issues with the fuel pump circuit and would wire to the connector to make the pump come on with the key.
Click to expand...
Yes I am pretty sure the fuel pump primes. Do you think that’s a possibility that it got wired together with something else. Let me go check right now
 

Andresquintana.mma

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#9
  • May 22, 2020
  • #9
90sickfox said:
On the black 88 you are holding the hood light connector.

When you turn your key on does the fuel pump prime for a couple seconds and cut off ? The connector you are looking for is also the fuel pump test wire. Back in the day people had issues with the fuel pump circuit and would wire to the connector to make the pump come on with the key.
Click to expand...

Just checked, fuel pump primes and turns off after a couple seconds.
 

Andresquintana.mma

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#10
  • May 23, 2020
  • #10
Ok I think I figured it out. The wire on the right in the picture is the grey test connector I believe. For whatever reason one if the previous owners combined it with the black connector. So I think I’m going to order the test plug repaid kit and try and match up the wires. I looked at a diagram for the 88 foxbody and hopefully it works
 

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Blown88GT

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#11
  • May 23, 2020
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The STO & STI are inside the same harness.
According to TMoss: STI should be White/Red; pin-48 on the EEC-IV
According to 1988 EVTM: STI should be Tan/Red; pin-48 on the EEC-IV
 

Andresquintana.mma

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#12
  • May 23, 2020
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Right, the sti has a separate single plug though correct? I’ll attach the photo I am referring to and it’s like this on my 89
 

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Blown88GT

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#13
  • May 23, 2020
  • #13
Andresquintana.mma said:
Ok I think I figured it out. The wire on the right in the picture is the grey test connector I believe. For whatever reason one if the previous owners combined it with the black connector. So I think I’m going to order the test plug repaid kit and try and match up the wires. I looked at a diagram for the 88 foxbody and hopefully it works
Click to expand...
I think you are wrong, but you do what you want to do.
 

Blown88GT

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#14
  • May 23, 2020
  • #14
Andresquintana.mma said:
Right, the sti has a separate single plug though correct? I’ll attach the photo I am referring to and it’s like this on my 89
Click to expand...
That's part of the TMoss drawing.
Yes, the STI has a separate single plug.

The STO has 4 wires & the picture you show has 4 wires.
'88's don't use Pin-4, i.e. there is no CEL (Check Engine Light)
 

Andresquintana.mma

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#15
  • May 23, 2020
  • #15
Blown88GT said:
That's part of the TMoss drawing.
Yes, the STI has a separate single plug.

The STO has 4 wires & the picture you show has 4 wires.
Click to expand...

Awesome I was going to order this part but I’m not sure if the colors match up the same. Sorry for the confusion I think we were on the same page lol. For some reason the last owner put the white w/ red wire which is the Sti connector into the main plug which is black instead of having it seperate as it should be. Which is why I couldn’t find it. Stayed up pretty late last night doing some research and came across the tmoss drawing. Great diagram! Or should I just try to disconnect the sti wire and find a grey connector?
 

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Blown88GT

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#16
  • May 23, 2020
  • #16
You don't need either connector unless you have a OBD-1 Code reader or are using a test lamp & counting flashes.
I guess you have this one, Innova 3145

Are you saying the STI wire is connected to pin-3 of the STO?
The drawing above is looking into the face of the connector, not the back.
You need to verify that what you think the STI is the STI. Ohm it back to the ECU.
STI connected to STO pin-2 triggers the self-test.
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Your picture doesn't show this.
You don't need the Ford grey STI connector. A shrouded female spade connector will work.
Home Depot has them. Standard 1/4" spade connector.

I only use the STO pin-6 to enable the fuel pump for troubleshooting.
I don't use the factory ECU.
 
Last edited: May 23, 2020

Andresquintana.mma

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#17
  • May 23, 2020
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Yes that’s the exact code reader I have. The sti is the white wire with red correct? I need that to get the code reader working?

And yes for some reason the sti wire is connected to the sto. Is there a way to disconnect it from the sto or do I just have to clip it? I was showing the back of the sto to show what wires were connected.

I should have some of those spade connectors at home. Hopefully I can get the code reader working now. Been dying to get the car running. Thank you for your help so far!
 

Blown88GT

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May 23, 2020
#18
  • May 23, 2020
  • #18
Andresquintana.mma said:
1. Yes that’s the exact code reader I have. The sti is the white wire with red correct? I need that to get the code reader working?

2. And yes for some reason the sti wire is connected to the sto. Is there a way to disconnect it from the sto or do I just have to clip it? I was showing the back of the sto to show what wires were connected.

3. I should have some of those spade connectors at home. Hopefully I can get the code reader working now. Been dying to get the car running. Thank you for your help so far!
Click to expand...
1. I have the same, don't use it any more. Over the years, the colors fade & Ford is not consistent or colorblind. Ford says Tan/Red, TMoss says White/Red.
2. I don't know how this was done. I don't see it in your pics. DO NOT cut anything before checking at least 3 times.

UPDATE:
I went to look at mine. I think the PO removed the spade connector from the grey backshell of the STI. Then he inserted it into the STO backshell. With a dental pick or very small flat blade screwdriver, you can release it from the STO backshell. This is probably done from the front, not the back. I can't tell for sure.
Then encase it in shrink wrap or temporary tape or put a vacuum cap over it. Don't want it to touch the chassis.
 
Last edited: May 23, 2020

Andresquintana.mma

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#19
  • May 23, 2020
  • #19
Blown88GT said:
1. I have the same, don't use it any more. Over the years, the colors fade & Ford is not consistent or colorblind. Ford says Tan/Red, TMoss says White/Red.
2. I don't know how this was done. I don't see it in your pics. DO NOT cut anything before checking at least 3 times.

UPDATE:
I went to look at mine. I think the PO removed the spade connector from the grey backshell of the STI. Then he inserted it into the STO backshell. With a dental pick or very small flat blade screwdriver, you can release it from the STO backshell. This is probably done from the front, not the back. I can't tell for sure.
Then encase it in shrink wrap or temporary tape or put a vacuum cap over it. Don't want it to touch the chassis.
Click to expand...

You’re awesome thanks so much!
 

Andresquintana.mma

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Nov 28, 2014
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May 23, 2020
#20
  • May 23, 2020
  • #20
Blown88GT said:
1. I have the same, don't use it any more. Over the years, the colors fade & Ford is not consistent or colorblind. Ford says Tan/Red, TMoss says White/Red.
2. I don't know how this was done. I don't see it in your pics. DO NOT cut anything before checking at least 3 times.

UPDATE:
I went to look at mine. I think the PO removed the spade connector from the grey backshell of the STI. Then he inserted it into the STO backshell. With a dental pick or very small flat blade screwdriver, you can release it from the STO backshell. This is probably done from the front, not the back. I can't tell for sure.
Then encase it in shrink wrap or temporary tape or put a vacuum cap over it. Don't want it to touch the chassis.
Click to expand...
Got it semi working lol disconnected the sti wire got it hooked up yo the Obd1 reader and ran it thru it’s tests but no codes. I connect it with the car off, turn the car on with a/c off and in neutral, turn on the obd1 reader and push test. Just gives me a little upside down triangle indicating it’s connevted and I hear a few things in the engine move around like it’s supposed to but then does nothing. Stays 000 with the triangle. Should I make a separate thread?
 
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