I just replaced my serp. belt and my A/C clutch started making a little noise. I don't use my A/C but I'm not ready to omit it at this time. What could cause this? Should I just go with an A/C delete? I do live in New Mexico. I appreciate any suggestions.:SNSign:
I've thought about running an A/C delete while I have the A/C system off the car. I might completely remove the A/C system and go through it, then reinstall it, is it worth it or should I just leave it off. The system isn't charged at all right now so that wouldn't be an issue. Thanks.
The A/C clutch is about $100 new or you can buy a compressor from the junkyard with a working clutch for about $50. The puller is about $16 if you have to buy one, Autozone will rent you one for free.
The clutch hub is usually what fails, the rubber shock damper shears off from the steel hub and plate. The pulley turns, but the hub doesn't when you power up the A/C The hub comes off without much problem if you have the puller. You don’t have to do anything with the refrigerant (R12 or R134a), you can replace the clutch without draining and refilling the system.
A few simple electrical tests are advised before popping out the wallet to buy a clutch assembly. With the engine running, use a test light connected to the 2 wires on the A/C clutch harness to make sure you have voltage when you turn the A/C on. If the system is low on refrigerant, the clutch will not engage (safety feature, keeps you from burning up the compressor due to no oil). There is an aluminum canister on the firewall with a large hose leading to the A/C compressor. There is a pressure switch on it with a 2 wire connector: pull the connector off and jumper the wires. The compressor circuit will power up, and the test light will light if the electrical circuit is good. This test is also a good way to check the compressor & clutch if the system is low on refrigerant. You can jumper the wires and the compressor will turn if the clutch is good.