Northern Radiator & Taurus Fan install

Tim65GT · May 1, 2007

I ordered my radiator last week (finally – I’ve been waiting to upgrade to an aluminum unit since I got my Vintage Air system 2 years ago). Saturday I went hunting for a Taurus fan at the salvage yards and picked one up for $75.

My radiator came in yesterday (Summit 380425 - $169) and the first thing I did was check the fit of the fan shroud.

It couldn’t have been much better:

I’m working on putting together the fan control unit with low $ parts. I’ll keep y’all updated.

iskwezm · May 1, 2007

i had to trim my shroud to make the overall thickness a little bit thinner and also cut the core support to gain more room for airflow as well as recess the radiator back a couple of inches

Tim65GT · May 1, 2007

iskwezm
i had to trim my shroud to make the overall thickness a little bit thinner and also cut the core support to gain more room for airflow as well as recess the radiator back a couple of inches

Yeah, I knew from a previous attempt that the only way an elect fan was going to fit was to remove this part of the rad support:

As far as thickness, my preliminary test fit shows I only have about an inch from the WP pulley without trimming the shroud. I ll loose some of that with the brackets/rubber mounts.

iskwezm · May 1, 2007

yeah, that sounds about right.

with the new electric w/p, i have about 1/4" clearance now.

Tim65GT · May 6, 2007

I’ve been working on the fan control...

After experimenting with various electronic components, I got the circuit the way I wanted it, and then started transferring the small components to a 1 1/2" x 2" board to fit in a plastic box. I still have to build the high current side of the circuit with the relays.

I also figured out that only the low speed OR the high speed winding can have power at the same time.

The circuit has high impedance, so it can use the existing temperature sensor without affecting the gage. Also, I incorporated small feedback resistors on the comparator inputs to eliminate over cycling. The control has an adjustable resistor for both the low and high speed set points and a separate input to kick in the High Fan when the AC is turned on.

I'll bench test it again, and hopefully everything works when it's put in the car.

It'll be a while before I get to do a real test, cause I still have to mount the radiator, fan and decide if I'm going to convert to a driver side water pump inlet. And if so, standard or reverse rotation w/ serpentine drive. I think I'm just going to get a '70's type WP and take on the other mods later.

Here is the circuit:

Rusty67 · May 6, 2007

Tim65GT said:
Yeah, I knew from a previous attempt that the only way an elect fan was going to fit was to remove this part of the rad support:

As far as thickness, my preliminary test fit shows I only have about an inch from the WP pulley without trimming the shroud. I ll loose some of that with the brackets/rubber mounts.

I put an aluminum radiator in my 67 and my friends 67 Cougar without having to cut out any sheet metal. It BARELY fits, there is almost no space between the fan and water pump pully but since neither is moving front to back then an inch is as good as a mile.

StangDreamin' · May 6, 2007

questions only a "geek" might ask or understandunderstand.....

Tim65GT said:
I’ve been working on the fan control...

Tim; looking at your schee; I have to ask:

1.) The anode of D2 doesn't "pick up" the base of Q2 on its way to ground, does it? I'm gonna guess it's not, same as the ignition hot lead not "picking up" U1 pin 13 on it's way to R7. This seems right, but I thought I'd make sure!

2.) What are you using for Q1 and Q2? And what about those componants' heatsinks? I've heard that Taurus fans can draw up to 50-55A; that's a lot of current to sink.

If this is a proprietary circuit you're working on to start a side-business; just tell me to STFU now

Iamdiffrnt · May 7, 2007

I don't think the transistors will really need the heat sinks, as they are only firing the coils on the relays.

Tim65GT · May 7, 2007

Tim; looking at your schee; I have to ask:

1.) The anode of D2 doesn't "pick up" the base of Q2 on its way to ground, does it? I'm gonna guess it's not, same as the ignition hot lead not "picking up" U1 pin 13 on it's way to R7. This seems right, but I thought I'd make sure!

2.) What are you using for Q1 and Q2? And what about those componants' heatsinks? I've heard that Taurus fans can draw up to 50-55A; that's a lot of current to sink.

If this is a proprietary circuit you're working on to start a side-business; just tell me to STFU now

You're right about the "crossing" wires they are not connected.

Q1 and Q2 are Radio Shack PN2222 transistors - good for 800ma #276-1617 gets you a pkg of 15.

The Comparator chip is 276-1712 for one, but it has four comparators on the chip.

The Variable resistors are 10K ohm 15 turn #276-343

The Relays contacts are good for 40A, but the coils only draw 175ma

I measured the turn on and steady current draw with an analog and digital current meter. The High speed was steady at 18 A and the low at 9A. I couldn't get the initial turn on to spike past 30, but I didn't have the car running, so the voltage was probablt a tad less than 12 instead of the normal 13.5 -14V.

No, I not selling this, It's just a project for me to tinker with. If anyone wants to copy anything, go for it... Just remember, like anything on the internet, it's use at your own risk...

Heck, I don't even know if it's going to work yet. I might end up getting frustrated and just go out and get a DC Controller.

Bullitt · May 7, 2007

that fan looks quite a bit different than the 3.8 fan I have from a Taurus.

Did you end up with a 3.0 fan by mistake or choose one on purpose?

iskwezm · May 7, 2007

probably just a different year.The motors for most of Ford fans are all the same, the blade design might be a "S" blade or straight blade and number of blades.

Tim65GT · May 7, 2007

that fan looks quite a bit different than the 3.8 fan I have from a Taurus.

Did you end up with a 3.0 fan by mistake or choose one on purpose?

I looked around the pile of fans at the salvage yard and found the '95 motor/fan/shroud assembly, but the shroud was cracked. One of the guys there found a shroud only that was in good shape.

The shroud has a part # F8C6-8C607 (from a '98)?

The motor is part #F5CH-8K621 ...'95?

Here is the wiring harness with relays and controller I put together:

StangDreamin' · May 7, 2007

Oh, DUHHHHH!

Not one of my better moments. Looked right at the relays (even noticed how you wired them so that the "high speed" relay opens its N/C contact to kill power to the "low speed" relay) - then I promptly forgot they were in the circuit. Can I claim that I was tired?
What kind of relays are you using that only draw 175 ma? The normal "fog light" relays I've picked up at auto parts houses (and even Radio Sh{nizz}it) usually draw up around 250-350 mA. Not that a 2N2222 (or even better a 2SC945) would have trouble sinking that much current.

Interesting on the current draw of the Taurus fan... makes me want to reconsider my plans for the Cougar -if it flows enough air! It gets kinda warm in my neck of the woods; and even mildly punched-out Clevelands need all the fan they can get! One thing in my favor is the amount of space under that extra-long hood.

jikelly · May 8, 2007

Pretty nice looking Tim65GT, I think I'm going to have to help my roommate fix his electric fan setup since it just died on us and your approach may be the way to go.

Tim65GT · May 8, 2007

What kind of relays are you using that only draw 175 ma? The normal "fog light" relays I've picked up at auto parts houses (and even Radio Sh{nizz}it) usually draw up around 250-350 mA.

I got a group of 'em off eBay for dirt cheap. They're just the standard 30/40A Bosch type relay.

New Problem...

I decided to get a '70 Waterpump so the inlet is on the driver side to match the radiator. I looks like it will bolt right up to my existing timing cover, BUT...

It's 1/4" taller!

The very limited room I had between the crank snout and the fan just got smaller!

AND... I'm going to have to space the Crank, alt and AC out accordingly.

Maybe I can go back to the idea of customizing a radiator crossover hose.

Any suggestions...ideas ... what did you guys do? Thanks

Rusty67 · May 9, 2007

The water pump should not be longer like that. Try geting a different brand. I know its more expensive but maybe Edelbrock ?

iskwezm · May 9, 2007

I have a passenger side outlet water pump, but maybe try some of the satinless Cool Flex hose.Its pretty firm, so when you bend it, it takes shape.

Or used some aluminum tuning and cut some rubber bends off a hose and make a hose like the Ron Morris kit.

Tim65GT · May 9, 2007

Thanks for the replies.

The water pump should not be longer like that. Try geting a different brand. I know its more expensive but maybe Edelbrock ?

I first tried Cordone brand at Checker, and then Duralast at Autozone... both the same.

I was trying to avoid high cost items, 'cause down the road (years), I'll prolly replace the whole setup with a rev rotation serp drive when I add power R&P steering.

I have a passenger side outlet water pump, but maybe try some of the satinless Cool Flex hose.Its pretty firm, so when you bend it, it takes shape.

Or used some aluminum tuning and cut some rubber bends off a hose and make a hose like the Ron Morris kit.

Yeah, I'm thinkin replace my WP with the same type pass side inlet and go the custom hose build.

Oh yeah, I would also have to cut off my timing pointer if I went to a driver side inlet.

More Q's:

Where is a good source for 1 3/4" alum tubing?
Will just regular exhaust pipe really work?
Do the ends have to be bead rolled?

Thanks

iskwezm · May 9, 2007

Tim65GT said:
Thanks for the replies.

I first tried Cordone brand at Checker, and then Duralast at Autozone... both the same.

I was trying to avoid high cost items, 'cause down the road (years), I'll prolly replace the whole setup with a rev rotation serp drive when I add power R&P steering.

Yeah, I'm thinkin replace my WP with the same type pass side inlet and go the custom hose build.

Oh yeah, I would also have to cut off my timing pointer if I went to a driver side inlet.

More Q's:

Where is a good source for 1 3/4" alum tubing?
Will just regular exhaust pipe really work?
Do the ends have to be bead rolled?

Thanks

I would assume you could even go to the hardware store and use brass to avoid rust, but anypipe should work and i think Summit sells stainless tubing.

You could probably use some type of adhesive to make sure the hose doesnt slide off if you cant get a "lip" or rolled edge.

Tim65GT · May 18, 2007

Went to NY for a week. My fav Uncle passed away.

I returned the '70 waterpump with the driverside inlet last week and last night got a standard '65 replacement.

I painted it and also a few of the brackets/hardware that came with the Vintage Air system.

Next, I'll be working on the radiator and fan brackets.

What's better, rubber mounting the radiator, or bolting it solid?

Northern Radiator & Taurus Fan install

Tim65GT

Active Member

iskwezm

Tim65GT

Active Member

iskwezm

Tim65GT

Active Member

Rusty67

StangDreamin'

Iamdiffrnt

Member

Tim65GT

Active Member

Bullitt

Packin' Heat

iskwezm

Tim65GT

Active Member

StangDreamin'

jikelly

Tim65GT

Active Member

Rusty67

iskwezm

Tim65GT

Active Member

iskwezm

Tim65GT

Active Member

Similar threads

Northern Radiator & Taurus Fan install

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Member

Active Member

Packin' Heat

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency