So do i want to retard my timming from STOCK setting or from the setting i'm currently at? I'm at 12 now? peace
john
john
loud 95
New Member
Generally speaking, you would want to retard your timing to 10 degrees initial with your kit, while still burning premium fuel to keep detonation under control. Your intructions, with your kit, should give you the specifics of this. Your fuel pressure should be set in accordance with the size jets you are using, as well as what pressure your system is supposed to remain at. If you do not have a bottle heater, I would recommend you save up for one. Systems without heaters see huge fluctuations in bottle pressure, which leads to inconsistent performance. Good luck!
Nobody
Founding Member
SMOKEDYA said:So do i want to retard my timming from STOCK setting or from the setting i'm currently at? I'm at 12 now? peace
john
Yes. Retard from stock. Advance from there if you feel brave.
No boubt the kit does say 2 degrees for every 50 shot or something like that? cant remember but i was woundering is it retard from STOCK setting or from what i'm at now? I alway's run the highest 92 oct. And yes i have the heater the only thing the kit dont have is the auto bottle opener, wich i'll be getting here soon after the tune /chip/crane box with auto retard deveice! it's loaded so i got it 99% done today,all thats left is the plugs oil water to be put back in! damn 6 month's later and i finaly got off my lazy ass and did itloud 95 said:Generally speaking, you would want to retard your timing to 10 degrees initial with your kit, while still burning premium fuel to keep detonation under control. Your intructions, with your kit, should give you the specifics of this. Your fuel pressure should be set in accordance with the size jets you are using, as well as what pressure your system is supposed to remain at. If you do not have a bottle heater, I would recommend you save up for one. Systems without heaters see huge fluctuations in bottle pressure, which leads to inconsistent performance. Good luck!
john
D347643
Banned
what compression you running? how big of a shot? Im running 9:1 and a 150 shot and i was told i can keep it at 14 degrees.
Drew
Drew
I'll leave this to the big tuner boys... but since it is a free world to type...
If you currently have your timing retarded for whatever reason, you should pull from where it currently is. Advancing back to stock and then pulling from there would only seem to leave you unprotected from your original issue (bad pump gas maybe) that you retarded for. Right?
The NOS isn't going to build you any buffer to help compenstate for your orignal retard, it needs it's own buffer so I think you should retard 2 degrees for every 50 shot on top of whatever retard you may already have. That would be the safe route anyway. Then as you balls mature and begin to drop, you can try to put your timing back in!
Seriously though, call the NOS tech support line. 3 years ago when I had NOS, I called them and they friggin' answered the phone and had all sorts of information for me. They were pretty awesome back then, maybe they still are today.
If you currently have your timing retarded for whatever reason, you should pull from where it currently is. Advancing back to stock and then pulling from there would only seem to leave you unprotected from your original issue (bad pump gas maybe) that you retarded for. Right?
The NOS isn't going to build you any buffer to help compenstate for your orignal retard, it needs it's own buffer so I think you should retard 2 degrees for every 50 shot on top of whatever retard you may already have. That would be the safe route anyway. Then as you balls mature and begin to drop, you can try to put your timing back in!
Seriously though, call the NOS tech support line. 3 years ago when I had NOS, I called them and they friggin' answered the phone and had all sorts of information for me. They were pretty awesome back then, maybe they still are today.
Darkness
Founding Member
loud 95
New Member
Smoked:
I am always more conservative than necessary but maybe that is why I have (well had) a 11 second 120,000 mile plus stock block AOD car. Here is what I would suggest. 1 or 2 degrees cooler heat range on the plugs and 2* retard for every 50 hp shot. Begin there. Then you can either tune based on reading the plugs, or if it were me, spend the $150 bucks and get it on a dyno and tune the thing there using the wide-band O2.
Start conservative and then work your way up. Be patient and you'll be a bottle freak in no time.
Take care...
I am always more conservative than necessary but maybe that is why I have (well had) a 11 second 120,000 mile plus stock block AOD car. Here is what I would suggest. 1 or 2 degrees cooler heat range on the plugs and 2* retard for every 50 hp shot. Begin there. Then you can either tune based on reading the plugs, or if it were me, spend the $150 bucks and get it on a dyno and tune the thing there using the wide-band O2.
Start conservative and then work your way up. Be patient and you'll be a bottle freak in no time.
Take care...
thanks a billon but yes i wiull start where you said and take it to Jeff at AFP to do the dyno!!! But first thing's first another new trannyN20Jnky said:Smoked:
I am always more conservative than necessary but maybe that is why I have (well had) a 11 second 120,000 mile plus stock block AOD car. Here is what I would suggest. 1 or 2 degrees cooler heat range on the plugs and 2* retard for every 50 hp shot. Begin there. Then you can either tune based on reading the plugs, or if it were me, spend the $150 bucks and get it on a dyno and tune the thing there using the wide-band O2.
Start conservative and then work your way up. Be patient and you'll be a bottle freak in no time.
Take care...
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