Not Sure What I'm Messing Up On Clutch Install...

[keybrdcowboy1]

So I have reinstalled the trans and clutch two times now and am still messing it up somehow. Hoping someone here can help me....

I started many months ago with putting in a new clutch, motor/tranny mounts, exhaust and various other little things. The first time I put everything back together I messed up the oil pan gasket and had a very bad oil leak. I also had a bad clutch (chattering?) noise. So I had to take it all back apart and start over. I just finished putting everything back together again and have still more issues. I am now leaking transmission fluid where the trans bolts up to the bell housing. And I still have a bad clutch noise. What's odd about the clutch noise is that it didn't happen right away. I actually drove the car about 50 yards down the street and back and didn't have a problem, and then it started to get hard to put into gear and then the noise started. Sounds like a rubbing/grinding type of noise. I tried adjusting the cable many different ways and sometimes it would make the noise worse but it never really got better. The way it was before I just took it back apart, with your foot off the clutch there was no noise, but as you started to push the clutch pedal it would just start making a racket. And once again, I let the car sit for a while and then I was able to get it in gear and drive it back into the garage and then the noise started as I got it in there. I took pictures of all the different pieces.... this is my first time doing any of this and to me everything looks fine. The car only has about 45K original miles on it and all the clutch pieces are brand new from LRS. I also replaced the input shaft retainer and when I took it off after getting the transmission back out it was full of fluid... I'm guessing that's why I was leaking the trans fluid.... Can anyone suggest anything that will help me get this back together? Below are pictures of everything... does anything look off? I've read the clutch install articles/videos on the web but obviously I'm still messing it up somehow.... thanks for any help!

 

[keybrdcowboy1]

more pics...

 

[jrichker]

1.) Leaking fluid from front of the transmission.
Remove the transmission and remove the bearing retainer
Clean the transmission case where the bearing retainer mounts and the mating surface of the bearing retainer with brake parts cleaner. When the cleaner dries, lightly coat the bearing retainer flange face that mates to the transmission with black silicone sealer and reassemble. This is assuming that you checked the bearing preload and used the necessary number of shims to get the preload properly set.


If you use anything but a genuine Ford throwout bearing, there is a high degree of probability that it will rattle.
The throwout bearing sits in the clutch fork arm with the wave springs pressing on the rear flange of the throwout bearing.

 

[keybrdcowboy1]

Jrichker, thank you for the reply...

So I didn't know about using RTV when reinstalling the input shaft retainer, so I will make sure to do that. I also didn't know that it is installed a certain direction (the wider, narrower hole goes towards the bottom) so I will also make sure I put that on correctly. I verified that I have the original stock shim installed (didn't know about those either). I felt for end play and didn't notice the input shaft moving in or out at all (not sure how hard you're supposed to yank on it).

I wanted to ask about the clutch fork... in this picture you can see that the forks that go around the pivot stud are a little bent; is it okay to just try and bend it back or does it need to be replaced? Nobody locally has one in stock (Ford or Autozone or Napa) and I would like to try and get this reinstalled tomorrow. My other question is about how tight the throwout bearing should be when installed in the clutch fork. Mine seems to be fairly loose... when I install the transmission I have to move the throwout bearing on the clutch fork so that it lines up with the pilot bearing; is this normal? Or is it supposed to be in the clutch fork so tight that it doesn't move at all? It looks like if you install it up (? not sure how to describe it... all the way pushed into the clutch fork) then it won't line up with the pilot bearing... I always have to back it up a half inch or so to get it to line up... normal?

Also, what kind of grease should I be using on all those parts? I am using Valvoline Ford multipurpose grease I used when I packed the wheel bearings a few years ago..... does that make a difference on anything?

Once again, I appreciate any help. Very frustrating to spend the time and money on this and it's still wrong....

 

[jrichker]

The spring fingers on the clutch fork can be bent if they will stay in the position you bend them to. If not, it may be time to get a new part .

It isn't uncommon to have to move the throwout bearing around to get it to line up enough to get the transmission installed. It should be easy to move until you get the clutch cable installed on the clutch fork.

No grease on the parts, as the clutch wears it will shed dust. The grease holds whatever dust lands on it and makes a dirty, binding mess.

 

[keybrdcowboy1]

Thanks again.... one last question.... in this picture you can see some rubbing damage on the center of the clutch disk on the side that faces the transmission... any idea what could have caused that scoring? Pretty sure that was from when the engine was running and not when I was installing....

 

[jrichker]

Look closely at the input shaft bearing retainer and see if you find any scratch or score marks.

I suggest you download a Free T5 manual. It will help you figure out if the input shaft bearing retainer is properly shimmed.
T5 Shim kits – best product I have seen in a while… T5 World Class 5 Speed Shims
“The Peel ‘n Place T5 World Class shim kit makes shimming T5 counter gear and main drive gears very easy.”

Home | www.hanlonmotorsports.com also has a video on how to rebuild your T5 or Tremec. It costs about $20, and is worth every penny of it.
Alternate sources for the T5 rebuild video...
t-5 transmission rebuild video - Google Search


See Tremec to download a FREE service manual for T5 or Tremec 3550/TKO
You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – Adobe Acrobat Reader DC Install for all versions

 

[keybrdcowboy1]

So a follow-up to my problems....

I reassembled everything for the third time, with the only difference this time being that I added the RTV to the input shaft bearing retainer and I made sure I installed it the right way up and I also attached the clutch cable to the clutch fork in order to keep it in place while I wrestled the transmission up there.

After doing that, I was starting to have some of the same problems. So this time I removed the clutch cable from the clutch fork, screwed my firewall adjuster all the way to the firewall and then reattached the clutch cable. I tightened the clutch cable nut just a few turns past where it initially made contact with the clutch fork and then I made the rest of the adjustments up at the firewall clutch adjuster. I adjusted it until I could start it up and get it into first and reverse and not have any problems.

So far so good. I have driven it around for about 30 mins or so and haven't had the horrible screeching noises. It does sometimes act like it doesn't want to go into first so I may adjust a little bit more but it's definitely better than it was.

Jrichker, I appreciate all of your help and time.