• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Not Your Typucal Sem Interior Post

  • Thread starter Thread starter madspeed
  • Start date Start date Sep 27, 2012
Prev
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
Next
First Prev 2 of 3 Next Last

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,914
1,332
204
a van down by the river
Sep 27, 2012
#21
  • Sep 27, 2012
  • #21
have you guys completely changed colors as in from red to grey? What parts are too tough to re color and would br better of swapping?
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,914
1,332
204
a van down by the river
Sep 27, 2012
#22
  • Sep 27, 2012
  • #22
got that, i meant the process
 

JordanB21

Active Member
Feb 6, 2012
804
27
29
Killeen, Texas
Sep 27, 2012
#23
  • Sep 27, 2012
  • #23
replacing high traffic areas is usually suggested. Arm rests, center consoles, the lower dash covers because your knees hit it, so on. Those are best done as from the factory colored.
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,914
1,332
204
a van down by the river
Sep 27, 2012
#24
  • Sep 27, 2012
  • #24
thanks for the input so far
 

MikeH686

Mine is only two inches though.
10 Year Member
Oct 11, 2011
2,843
1,753
184
Waldorf, MD
Sep 28, 2012
#25
  • Sep 28, 2012
  • #25
I havent put it back together but it holds up good because its the same stuff they actually do vehicle wraps with and the more the heat gets to the vinyl it softens and is able to match the texture and dimples better and better
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
Nov 22, 2001
3,501
28
119
Motor City
Sep 28, 2012
#26
  • Sep 28, 2012
  • #26
I used SEM on all the plastic parts. Held up fine. The longer it sits, the better. I scratched parts of the quarter trims installing them, 2 days later...and about a month later I installed the coat hooks and the screw driver slipped and nothing happened. lol

I used Duplicolor vinal & fabric black paint for the arm rests. The top pad on the drivers side started to wear a little bit where I rest my elbow. Nothing major. It tooks about 3,000 miles to show through. Simply respray it and your good.
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
42,941
21,125
234
Box behind Walmart
Sep 28, 2012
#27
  • Sep 28, 2012
  • #27
madspeed1 said:
have you guys completely changed colors as in from red to grey? What parts are too tough to re color and would br better of swapping?
Click to expand...
madspeed1 said:
got that, i meant the process
Click to expand...


I think you're askin me? I'm kinda lost...

Anyway.... The prep that I provided a link for... I spray it on and let it sit for couple minutes. I use lint free micro-fiber towels to clean the prep from the plastic. Some of the color will begin to come off right away. Once I have it completely free of any remaining prep, I spray it again. I let it sit for just a couple minutes again (5 to 7 tops / I watch it closely for any signs of shape changing).

Micro-fiber towels again and you will see the factory dye begin to wipe off and you'll get down to the bare molded plastic.

Use some alchohol to clean/neutralize anything left behind by the prep. Let the piece sit overnight if it was made soft by the prep.

I used VHT dye and started with a see-through coat and continued to spray that thick for subsequent coats.
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,914
1,332
204
a van down by the river
Sep 28, 2012
#28
  • Sep 28, 2012
  • #28
that helps. i figured it might take a few coats of the prep to strip most of the old color off. Since going a full color change, i assume that would work best.

thanks
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
42,941
21,125
234
Box behind Walmart
Sep 28, 2012
#29
  • Sep 28, 2012
  • #29
madspeed1 said:
that helps. i figured it might take a few coats of the prep to strip most of the old color off. Since going a full color change, i assume that would work best.

thanks
Click to expand...

Not ALL of the color came off of every piece. Some pieces (the ones that don't get as much abuse) I just stripped the top coats from. Car is not a DD but get driven frequently. It's been several years but there are no spots that I've noticed where the old color is coming through.
 

S&B

I hate my CT. :(
10 Year Member
Dec 18, 2005
1,634
695
204
Cheesehead
Sep 28, 2012
#30
  • Sep 28, 2012
  • #30
when I painted items I first used laundry detergent instead of soap, really scrubbed it, then used prep stuff, the detergent really drys out the the plastic, I felt it help "take" the paint better. The factory uses paint to make the dash grey so if its good enough for ford
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
42,941
21,125
234
Box behind Walmart
Sep 28, 2012
#31
  • Sep 28, 2012
  • #31
Oh... and the dash needs to come completely out of the car if you want to it right. Great time to replace the heater core with an OEM replacement if you've not done that in several years.
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,914
1,332
204
a van down by the river
Sep 28, 2012
#32
  • Sep 28, 2012
  • #32
sure, youre already snowballing my project....
 

gearheadboy

15 Year Member
Jan 15, 2003
1,425
177
84
Greencastle Pa
Sep 28, 2012
#33
  • Sep 28, 2012
  • #33
Noobz347 said:
Oh... and the dash needs to come completely out of the car if you want to it right. Great time to replace the heater core with an OEM replacement if you've not done that in several years.
Click to expand...
I painted mine, both black and the gray while in the car. I had all the trim off the cluster and column anyhow, pulled the glove box and pad etc. Painted dash in car. Taped with blue tape and newspaper. I used adhesion promoter first, then SEM or VHT depending on color. What do you guys mean stripped the paint off the trim? Most of mine was molded in gray, all but the main dash, it was different gray underneath. I used wet red scotchbrite with dawn dish liquid in a bucket of warm water. I found that prep-sol would melt the paint like lacquer thinner.
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,914
1,332
204
a van down by the river
Sep 28, 2012
#34
  • Sep 28, 2012
  • #34
howd the vents turn out?
 

gearheadboy

15 Year Member
Jan 15, 2003
1,425
177
84
Greencastle Pa
Sep 28, 2012
#35
  • Sep 28, 2012
  • #35
Great. Turn one way full paint that, let dry, change position, paint, let dry...I even went to hobby lobby and bought a like micro detail round foam brush, a bottle of Testors gloss white, and a bottle of thinner. I thinned a cap full in a little container and painted the square and open square symbols. They look AWESOME. The trick is to thin is a bit so it flows a little. It kills the gloss some, 2 coats and it looks factory.
 

gearheadboy

15 Year Member
Jan 15, 2003
1,425
177
84
Greencastle Pa
Sep 28, 2012
#36
  • Sep 28, 2012
  • #36
I'll pic whore in a minute.
 

gearheadboy

15 Year Member
Jan 15, 2003
1,425
177
84
Greencastle Pa
Sep 28, 2012
#37
  • Sep 28, 2012
  • #37
View attachment 74650View attachment 74651
 

Attachments

  • 100_1118.webp
    167.8 KB · Views: 118

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,914
1,332
204
a van down by the river
Sep 30, 2012
#38
  • Sep 30, 2012
  • #38
wow, looks great! I thought that lighter grey was titanium, but i guess i was wrong. Im going with that same color. Well done
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,914
1,332
204
a van down by the river
Sep 30, 2012
#39
  • Sep 30, 2012
  • #39
anyone use the vinyl dye for stuff like door panels?
 

gearheadboy

15 Year Member
Jan 15, 2003
1,425
177
84
Greencastle Pa
Sep 30, 2012
#40
  • Sep 30, 2012
  • #40
madspeed1 said:
anyone use the vinyl dye for stuff like door panels?
Click to expand...
I used two types as seen in the small thumbnail. One is for flexible parts. I used it on the dash pad. Works great, matches the other. Titanium has a slightly tan look in comparison to this.
 
Prev
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
Next
First Prev 2 of 3 Next Last
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Progress Thread mkk50's Progress Thread
  • mkk50
  • Aug 4, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
19
Views
681
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Sep 22, 2025
Noobz347
2
Running very very rich
  • 2esoteric
  • Oct 31, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
4
Views
314
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Oct 31, 2025
Noobz347
X
Free VE Table Corrections — Drop Your MSQ and a Datalog, I'll Do the Rest
  • X-cam34
  • Apr 12, 2026
  • Digital Self-tuning Forum
Replies
8
Views
328
Digital Self-tuning Forum May 21, 2026
X-cam34
X
SURGING IDLE / NO IDLE CHECKLIST FOR 1996–1998 MUSTANG GT (4.6L 2V) - Work In Progress
  • Noobz347
  • Aug 30, 2025
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
0
Views
688
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Aug 30, 2025
Noobz347
SURGING IDLE / NO IDLE CHECKLIST FOR 1999–2004 MUSTANG GT (4.6L 2V) - Work In Progress
  • Noobz347
  • Aug 30, 2025
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
0
Views
821
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Aug 30, 2025
Noobz347
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?