o/d problem...please help me out here!!

[stonegod85]

so about a month ago, i was at the track and my 1/4 times were really crappy, but the other times weren't that bad at all: (15.1 @88 with a 60' at 2.01 and my 1/8 @ 9.01 <--i think)so i could see something was up. every time i'd come into the last 60' of the track my computer would override my override o/d button forcing the car to shift at 5K RPM's on the dot. tried holding it down, still nothing. just previous to going to the track i had some motive 4.10 gears installed CORRECTLY and a transgo shift kit. since my AODE tranny is in a 97 Ford went with the mechanical speedo gears that are in the tranny (therefore you have to by the biggest speedo gear FRPP makes in order to correct the speedometer. while this worked i'm still over somewhere between 5 and 10 mph. i just want my o/d to stay off when i want it too....i've spoken with several people about this but i have no definite answers on how to correct the problem and i don't feel like wasting more money on trial and error. i've been told a manual valve body will fix it and i've also been told that a tune MIGHT fix it. what do y'all think?

ps sorry for the long post, just want to make sure all of the facts are given before hand so that maybe someone with this same experience can help better.

 

[stonegod85]

c'mon...there has to be some tranny gurus on here

 

[Dark Knight GT]

A good tune or chip should stop this from happening, since its electronically controled, and by computer programming, you can technically over ride this. It shouldn't be shifting into o/d though if you've cut the o/d band off, via the o/d button/switch. I'de give superchips tuning a call, and see what they tell you.

BTW, its not a good idea to be racing this thing with it shifting into o/d at wide open throttle. Thats a good way to blow your over drive band.

 

['13_ImpactBlue_GT]

Dont forget a Tranny cooler.

 

[stonegod85]

thanks for the advise...i'll give superchips a call and see what they say as i do have their handheld tuner.

 

[streetstang03]

if that doesnt work, post this on www.tccoa.com

 

[Jakes]

...snip... i just want my o/d to stay off when i want it too.....

Are you sure it's shifting into o/d or are you feeling the converter locking up? It definately shouldn't be going into o/d if you've got it buttoned off, somethings broke. If it's the converter locking up a tuner can turn it off but I wouldn't.

 

[stonegod85]

well that never crossed my mind. i'm not very fluent about converters i just know that i want one with a higher stall. that's about it. so as far as the locking up...i have no idea. BUT i did take it to the dyno and the two pulls the same exact thing happened at the same time. At 5000 rpms, it shows it on the dyno graph as well, the power takes a straight drop. The guy running the dyno, very reputible, said the O/D was kicking in even though he had the override button pressed. I called superchips today and they couldn't tell me crap, ofcourse they never can. i thought it may be a problem with the tuner itself. the "tech" said he would get back to me...whatever that's worth.

DANG IT!!! i really need to figure this out.

 

[stonegod85]

streetstang03 if you could copy and paste this on to that other site you posted that would be awesome. i feel weird posting or becoming a member of a thunderbird and cougar club. if not that's cool too, if a mustang site has noone that knows what's going on with my o/d problem i doubt they would.

 

[stonegod85]

anyone else?

 

[Arnolds97]

Another unfortunate Transgo customer! GO read the the J- Mod article at www.tccoa.com. I do not know how many threads I have read how the TRansgo has shelled the trans. They work for awhile and then the 4th gear band gets screwed up. It is something to do with the way Transgo goes about trying to play with the Electronics and they should not. They will overide but normally shift higher into 4th. Mine is at about 5600. I have 3.73's in my 97 and with less mods ran a 14.7. Your shift problems are causing havoc with your times.

Get it out of their before you have to buy a new Tranny. I have 50k on my Jmod a dnit works great. Do the Jmod!

 

[stonegod85]

well i've already done the transo kit (which involves screwing holes here and there in the valve body, so will i still be able to do the j-mod or should i just go ahead and get a nicer valve body (manual or auto?)...and you are sure this will fix the o/d problem i'm having in my 97?

 

[stonegod85]

watcha think?

 

[Dark Knight GT]

I have to agree. The Trans-go shift kit is probably causing your transmission problems.

The J-mod shouldn't be much more difficult to do, in fact, you can read all the steps to it yourself over at www.tccoa.com in their tech articles for the 4r70w transmission.

You'll need the newer style rubber bonded accumulator pistons, since you have a 97 transmission. I forget the part number for these, but Jerry has them mentioned in his tech articles for the 4r70w transmission at TCCOA. You'll also need two new valve body gaskets IF you need to disassemble the valve body and do more drilling or remove certain parts the Trans-go shift kit required you to install. Also, you'll probably need to re-adjust your line pressure via the Pressure control solenoid IF you adjusted it when installing the Trans-go shift kit. You'll also need a new upper 1-2 accumulator spring. You shouldn't re-install any spring in the lower portion of the 1-2 accumulator piston, and no springs should be re-installed in the 2-3 accumulator piston, it will operate and shift fine without any. If you've put any blocker rings on either of the accumulator pistons, that would be the time to remove them. They're not a good idea to begin with.

Little Tip: Expect to get a transmission fluid shower when doing this. So, be forewarned. You'll also probably need a bottle jack when compressing the 1-2 accumulator piston in order to remove the snap ring. It's a PITA, I know, I've removed one before. You'll need a good set of snap ring pliars, else, you won't get it out. You might also need some petroleum jelly to put the 1-2 accumulator piston back in place, because its a tight fit.

Contact Randy Stinchcomb, and tell him you have a 97GT, and are wanting to upgrade the Jerry mod shift kit. Remember, you'll need the blue upper 1-2 accumulator spring, Newer style rubber bonded accumulator pistons for both the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulators, and probably 2 new valve body gaskets, just in case if you need to take the valve body apart.

After you do all of this, if the problems still persist, I don't know what to tell you other than to keep calling Superchips and see if you can't get a hold of Jerry, as he works for them.

 

[stonegod85]

well do you think it would be a better investment just to get a brand new valve body that is made and set up for what i want...and if so should i go with a manual of auto. i was told lintech makes very nice aode/4r70w setups.

 

[Dark Knight GT]

Lentech transmissions, as well as other companies like Performance Automatic makes valve bodies that are 4r70w compatible, and has the holes for line pressure feed already enlarged. The question is are you willing to pay the 250-350(perhaps more) for one ? As far as I know(and unfortunately) no one sells pre-drilled seperator plates for the 4r70w valve body, or I'de tell you to go with them. If you're worried you'll screw drilling the valve body up, then its probably best that you don't do it. If you know anyone that has a drill press and has drilling experience, I'de let them do it, or just dig deep and get a high performance valve body.

 

[stonegod85]

so what you're saying is those aftermarket valvebodies are basically the same as the one i have, just with everything already done to them making it a bolt on? if that's the case i'll just buy everything to do the j-mod and upgrade the tranny as much as possible that way. correct me if i'm wrong.

 

[Dark Knight GT]

so what you're saying is those aftermarket valvebodies are basically the same as the one i have, just with everything already done to them making it a bolt on?

Yeah, basically.

if that's the case i'll just buy everything to do the j-mod and upgrade the tranny as much as possible that way. correct me if i'm wrong.

In order to do the J-mod, just carefully read the articles over at www.tccoa.com on the J-mod in the tech articles for the 4r70w transmission. If you need anymore help, I'm willing to help. I've done the j-mod myself, so I kinda got experience in this department.

 

[nyuk98gt]

stonegod85:

The 3-4 shift can only be prevented by changing the program in the PCM (i.e.--a custom tune or a handheld flasher). The shift schedule must be modified so that the 3-4 shift occurs at 130 mph and 8000 rpm. You need both because a shift is commanded on vehicle speed or engine speed, whichever occurs first.

You can reverse the TransGo (filling in holes with brass -- see the TCCoA.com site where "Transmissions 101" is and find the article for hole-filling) and then do the J-mod.

I fear that your OD band is burnt and now must be replaced. It doesn't take too many WOT 3-4 shifts to fry the band. Luckily, it is not too bad to replace.

HTH,

Chris

 

[Dark Knight GT]

If he has to replace his o/d band, why not just upgrade to a stronger one ? I think Bauman Engineering sells one for under 200 dollars. Probably not much more expensive than a replacement stocker.