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OEM disc brake upgrades?

  • Thread starter Thread starter wicked93gs
  • Start date Start date Jan 20, 2008

wicked93gs

15 Year Member
Sep 30, 2006
1,198
229
93
Nashville TN
Jan 20, 2008
#1
  • Jan 20, 2008
  • #1
I see all kinds of kits to convert to disc or power disk from the original drum brake setup out there, but I have factory front discs and am wondering what type of upgrades are available for me, and which would be the best option....
 
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bnickel

Founding Member
Aug 21, 2002
5,640
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77
lubbock, texas
Jan 20, 2008
#2
  • Jan 20, 2008
  • #2
a power booster kit and maybe one of the SSBC quick change aluminum caliper kits with some better pads would make a very nice upgrade to the stock brakes.

http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Brakes/SSBC/a188.htm

add some slotted rotors and you're set

http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Brakes/SSBC/a2360000.htm
 

wicked93gs

15 Year Member
Sep 30, 2006
1,198
229
93
Nashville TN
Jan 20, 2008
#3
  • Jan 20, 2008
  • #3
thanks for the links, not really a fan of slotted or drilled rotors though, I dont think they do any good with modern brake pads since the theory behind them is to help gasses escape, and with modern pads there just isnt much gas(from my understanding anyway, but I'm not an expert on brakes either), they just wear the pads away faster....but some solid 11" rotors would be nice
 

degins

Member
Sep 18, 2004
361
0
17
Texas
Jan 20, 2008
#4
  • Jan 20, 2008
  • #4
wicked93gs said:
thanks for the links, not really a fan of slotted or drilled rotors though, I dont think they do any good with modern brake pads since the theory behind them is to help gasses escape, and with modern pads there just isnt much gas(from my understanding anyway, but I'm not an expert on brakes either), they just wear the pads away faster....but some solid 11" rotors would be nice
Click to expand...

The gases are primarily water vapor from wet road conditions. The frictional characteristics of the rotor and the wear of the pads are not significantly affected by slotting of the rotor.
 

wicked93gs

15 Year Member
Sep 30, 2006
1,198
229
93
Nashville TN
Jan 21, 2008
#5
  • Jan 21, 2008
  • #5
surface area of the rotor under the pad is still reduced though, since I wont be driving the car when its raining or snowing, wet roads should not be a common factor for me
 
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Gailahan

Member
Sep 15, 2006
144
0
17
St. Louis, Missouri
Jan 21, 2008
#6
  • Jan 21, 2008
  • #6
wicked93gs said:
thanks for the links, not really a fan of slotted or drilled rotors though, I dont think they do any good with modern brake pads since the theory behind them is to help gasses escape, and with modern pads there just isnt much gas(from my understanding anyway, but I'm not an expert on brakes either), they just wear the pads away faster....but some solid 11" rotors would be nice
Click to expand...

I have heard the same thing as above, it's all just a gimmick. The crossdrilling just makes the rotors crack, and the slotting is useless as moden brake pads don't have the same "gasses" anymore. Overall, the only reason to buy crossdrilled or slotted rotors is if you think they look cool and you don't mind buying a new rotor after they crack... Ventilated rotors on the other hand are a different story. The ventilation helps cool off the rotor.
 
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bnickel

Founding Member
Aug 21, 2002
5,640
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77
lubbock, texas
Jan 21, 2008
#7
  • Jan 21, 2008
  • #7
i've read that a slotted rotor will also help keep the pads from glazing over since the slots effectively "clean" the pads as the rotor spins. if so, that's enough reason for me to go with a slotted rotor. i won't buy a drilled rotor if i can help it and since there are plenty of smooth and slotted rotors on the market i doubt i'll ever have to worry about it.
 

wicked93gs

15 Year Member
Sep 30, 2006
1,198
229
93
Nashville TN
Jan 21, 2008
#8
  • Jan 21, 2008
  • #8
good point about the glazing....it makes me reconsider...
 
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bnickel

Founding Member
Aug 21, 2002
5,640
3
77
lubbock, texas
Jan 21, 2008
#9
  • Jan 21, 2008
  • #9
wicked93gs said:
good point about the glazing....it makes me reconsider...
Click to expand...



i'd do some more research on that, i think i read that in some paper i found on the corner carvers site but i haven't really checked into it but it does make sense.
 

degins

Member
Sep 18, 2004
361
0
17
Texas
Jan 21, 2008
#10
  • Jan 21, 2008
  • #10
bnickel said:
i've read that a slotted rotor will also help keep the pads from glazing over since the slots effectively "clean" the pads as the rotor spins. if so, that's enough reason for me to go with a slotted rotor. i won't buy a drilled rotor if i can help it and since there are plenty of smooth and slotted rotors on the market i doubt i'll ever have to worry about it.
Click to expand...

bnickle;
As I said before, the frictional characteristics of the rotor and the wear of the pads are not significantly affected by slotting the rotor. The area cut out of the rotor to make the slot is not significant. Also, the deglazing you mentioned would implies that the slot scrapes the pad as it rotates by. This is not the case. The slots allow the escape of water and water vapor (much like tire threads do with tires). It also allows the release of gases created by the heating of road residues. These effects are likely to be small on a dry road.

I agree that cross drilling weakens a rotor. In racing applications, the advantages afforded by the drilling outweigh the potential problems since the brakes are inspected and maintained regularly. This is not so for a driver.

I could agree that slotting may affect the eye of the beholder more than the performance of the car. But then again, isn't this the case with most mods, many of which cost a lot more.
Dennis
 
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