I see all kinds of kits to convert to disc or power disk from the original drum brake setup out there, but I have factory front discs and am wondering what type of upgrades are available for me, and which would be the best option....
OEM disc brake upgrades?
- Thread starter wicked93gs
- Start date
a power booster kit and maybe one of the SSBC quick change aluminum caliper kits with some better pads would make a very nice upgrade to the stock brakes.
http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Brakes/SSBC/a188.htm
add some slotted rotors and you're set
http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Brakes/SSBC/a2360000.htm
http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Brakes/SSBC/a188.htm
add some slotted rotors and you're set
http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Brakes/SSBC/a2360000.htm
thanks for the links, not really a fan of slotted or drilled rotors though, I dont think they do any good with modern brake pads since the theory behind them is to help gasses escape, and with modern pads there just isnt much gas(from my understanding anyway, but I'm not an expert on brakes either), they just wear the pads away faster....but some solid 11" rotors would be nice
The gases are primarily water vapor from wet road conditions. The frictional characteristics of the rotor and the wear of the pads are not significantly affected by slotting of the rotor.
surface area of the rotor under the pad is still reduced though, since I wont be driving the car when its raining or snowing, wet roads should not be a common factor for me
I have heard the same thing as above, it's all just a gimmick. The crossdrilling just makes the rotors crack, and the slotting is useless as moden brake pads don't have the same "gasses" anymore. Overall, the only reason to buy crossdrilled or slotted rotors is if you think they look cool and you don't mind buying a new rotor after they crack... Ventilated rotors on the other hand are a different story. The ventilation helps cool off the rotor.
i've read that a slotted rotor will also help keep the pads from glazing over since the slots effectively "clean" the pads as the rotor spins. if so, that's enough reason for me to go with a slotted rotor. i won't buy a drilled rotor if i can help it and since there are plenty of smooth and slotted rotors on the market i doubt i'll ever have to worry about it.
i'd do some more research on that, i think i read that in some paper i found on the corner carvers site but i haven't really checked into it but it does make sense.
bnickle;
As I said before, the frictional characteristics of the rotor and the wear of the pads are not significantly affected by slotting the rotor. The area cut out of the rotor to make the slot is not significant. Also, the deglazing you mentioned would implies that the slot scrapes the pad as it rotates by. This is not the case. The slots allow the escape of water and water vapor (much like tire threads do with tires). It also allows the release of gases created by the heating of road residues. These effects are likely to be small on a dry road.
I agree that cross drilling weakens a rotor. In racing applications, the advantages afforded by the drilling outweigh the potential problems since the brakes are inspected and maintained regularly. This is not so for a driver.
I could agree that slotting may affect the eye of the beholder more than the performance of the car. But then again, isn't this the case with most mods, many of which cost a lot more.
Dennis
